Denmark May 2023
📌 Table of Contents
- May 4 – Arrival in Copenhagen & First Impressions
- May 5 – Castles, Canals & Nyhavn Nights
- May 6 – Bike Rides, Coffee Breaks & Danish Design
- May 7 – Countryside Charm & Hidden Gems
- May 8 – Food Markets, Pastries & Street Discoveries
- May 9 – Art, Architecture & Colorful Streets
- Final Thoughts on Denmark
- Travel Tips for Denmark
We set off for another adventure and landed for our layover in San Francisco were we found a coffee robot. I watched for a few minutes, took a video for my boyfriend and we headed to the Priority Pass lounge to kill some time. We arrived in Billund Denmark, never once passing through customs or immigration, it was surreal and we literally thought we did something wrong. We approached our car rental agency and inquired to make sure and she said "once you're in Denmark, you're in Denmark." The rental process was smooth, however, locating the car was not. We wandered for a while but evenutally just hit the alarm and finally located it. We set our course for Copenhagen. We checked into the CABINN Copenhagen which was a nice location but the rooms were very small. They were clean however and it was okay for the 2 night stay that we planned. It had cover parking. We decided to set out and find food in the area. We attempted one restruarant that was across the street from the hotel, I'm not sure whether it was the jet-lag, being dumb tourists or something else but we literally couldn't find the entrance. After 5 minutes, we finally found it but felt so silly that we decided to venture somewhere else. We settled for a restuarant called Hooked. I got a poke bowl and it was good. After a long day of flying, time change, little sleep and driving to Copenhagen we decided to head back to the hotel to prepare for the big day tomorrow. We bought Copenhagen passes and wanted to get our money's worth. I slept like a baby.
May 4 – Arrival in Copenhagen & First Impressions
We got up and headed to a coffee shop to get some caffeine and pastries, we could hit our first stop at 9am so we killed whatever time we had there. We then headed to Church of our Saviour which rose in the 1600s, built in the Baroque style. Initially a temporary church existed, and the grand building we see today wasn't completed until the 1750s. The reason for the delay? The famous, spiraling copper spire! It was finally added under King Frederik V, making the church a true landmark. Today, it's a functioning church and a popular tourist spot with stunning views from the top of the spire. Our pass got us in and we headed up the 400 stairs to take in the rooftop views. The church itself was nothing overly special but the view most definitely was. The city is beautiful.
We wandered toward Christianshavn, followed the canal and stopped in Nyhavn (the colorful picturesque harbor) to Stromma Danmark for the boat tour included on the pass. We got lucky and only had to wait about 10 mins before we took off. It was a bit chilly so if you plan to be on the water in Denmark in May, bring a jacket. The tour was about 45 minutes and we got to see all the many sites from the water. Those sites included: Royal Playhouse, Amalienborg Palace, The Opera House, etc. I would highly recommend this tour if you are spending some time in Copenhagen. We headed through August Bournonvilles Passage which has little known history that I could find. The surrounding area dates back to the vikings in 8th-11th century AD.
We then headed straight to our next stop: Christianborg Palace and used our passes again. The Christiansborg Palace is a survivor. Built grand in the Baroque style in the 1730s, it was the largest palace in Northern Europe. But a fire in 1794 reduced it to ashes. Rebuilt in the neoclassical style, it faced another fiery fate in 1884. The current palace, finished in 1928, blends architectural styles and now houses the Danish government, a symbol of both resilience and power. Here, you are able to head down to the old castle ruins and learn a lot about the history of the palace. The major ruins include: Bishop Absalon's Castle (1167): Archaeological finds reveal the earliest structure on the site was a castle built by Bishop Absalon in the 12th century. It was located on a tiny island off the harbor.Copenhagen Castle (14th-18th Century): Later, a larger Copenhagen Castle was built on the same spot, incorporating some elements of Absalon's castle. This castle stood until the construction of the first Christiansborg Palace. After absorbing that history you can tour the current palace (heads up you must wear booties.). The palace is very ornately decorated and some of the rooms are truly impressive. The art, tapestries, furniture is also in immaculate condition and you can spend hours wandering around here. Afterward, you can head out to the royal stables. It does have different hours than the Palace so you might want to plan accordingly. We didn't wait for it to open but did get to see some equestrians working their horses.
It was lunch so we decided to find one of the docked boats for lunch. We ate at Kutteren HM800 Jammerbugt: Built in 1975 at the Lemvig Skibsværft in Denmark, it initially served as a sturdy fishing vessel in the North Sea, navigating the waters of Skagerrak and the Jammerbugt (Jammer Bay). It mostly had burgers and fried food but it was a nice view from the upper deck and the staff was nice. Plus, when in Denmark it only seemed fitting to have this experience. So A+ experience and C food. Now that we were fueled, we were ready to kick it into high gear. We wandered to Amalienborg Palace where we caught the changing of the Guards march. Amalienborg Palace started as posh homes for nobles in the 1750s, but a royal fire turned them into the Danish royal residence by the 1790s. The actual palace was not nearly as interesting as Christianborg and we were glad to have the passes and didn't actual pay to enter. We caught a glimpse of Fredrick's Church while walking up Frederiksgade.
We headed through the gardens leading into the Rosenborg Castle: Rising from a simple summer retreat in the 1600s, Rosenborg Castle blossomed into King Christian IV's favorite royal hangout. After serving as a residence for a century, it transitioned into a treasure chest, preserving royal bling and stunning interiors. Today, it's a popular museum offering a peek into the lives of Danish monarchs. We were warned to pre-book times by the staff at Amalienborg and since it was about 20 a minute walk from Amalienborg, we pre-booked for 25 mins. We made it easily and headed in. This castle is more rustic but still ornate, it appears to be more in its original state and less up to date. They have a ton of sculptures, paintings, thrones, jewelry, etc... They also have a beautiful gardens and grounds. I really enjoyed this palace and was distinctly a totally different vibe than the other 2 palace's we already saw. The beauty of the pass is doing things that you may not have ordinarily done otherwise so we detoured to the Botanical Gardens: started as a king's herb garden in the 1600s, moved twice, and bloomed into a plant paradise with stunning glasshouses by the 1800s. Today, it boasts over 15,000 plant species. It was massive and segregated into different regions with different climates. They also had a butterfly dome where we probably spent more time than necessary but come on, who doesn't love butterflies?
We headed to the Round Tower: built by a king in the 1600s. With a unique horse-friendly ramp inside, it served as a prime observatory for centuries. Today, it's Europe's oldest functioning observatory and a popular tourist spot for panoramic city views. It is a dizzying experience and winding around a gradual elevation several times. I will warn you, that the ground is mostly really uneven brick so keep this in mind if you have any mobility issues. The payoff is some pretty arial views of the city. Next stop was Tivoli Village: Built in 1843 as a fun escape,. Beyond the gardens, this place is a true tourist trap and you pay for it. It was dinner time and we just decided to bit the bullet and picked a place to eat, Mazzoli's. It was mediocre, over-priced the the service was probably the worst we've had. Some tables even left before they could order, after sitting and waiting for over 10 mins without even being greeted by the server. Luckily, we arrived right when they opened and at least got service, getting the bill was another story. We toured the remaining grounds of Tivoli and headed to a train station.
The Copenhagen pass also includes free public transportation so we took advantage. We only had one snafu getting to the last stop which involved getting on a bus in the wrong direction but we made it to Sondermarken and the Cisterns which started as a giant water tank in the 1800s, quenching the city's thirst and it was drained in 1981. Again, this was an interesting place to find. We found some signs but made a wrong turn and had to backtrack and eventually we found the enterance. This place has stairs that lead underground with halographic art installations and water. It was fun to wander and some of the photos turned out really cool. We headed back to the bus stop and after a 15 minute wait, we hopped on and headed back to the hotel. This day included 27,637 steps, 12.01 miles of walking and burned 3,548 calories. To say we were tired, is an understatement but I wouldn't take it back. What an excellent cure for jet lag? Trying to see as much as possible to "save" more money on a pass that you already bought. Welcome to my mentality. Again, this was another night of glorious sleep and we planned for an early morning to check out some other sites in the outskirts of the city which required driving. I normally don't like "big" cities but Copenhagen stole my heart a little today. Everywhere we walked was beautiful, the people were friendly enough and the walking/public transport is on point.
May 5 – Castles, Canals & Nyhavn Nights
We woke up and checked out of the hotel and headed toward Kronborg Castle which rose from a tiny 15th-century fort to a powerful Renaissance symbol. Shakespeare's Hamlet found its Elsinore inspiration here! After facing fire and war, it's now a UNESCO treasure. This castle has a mote and it was originally built to control access to the Baltic Sea. Compared to the other castles we saw, it had much less furniture. It did have a lot of art, some thrones, and some underground tunnels. The gift shop was huge with a lot of Shakespeare references. Right around the parking area was a few shops and places to eat. It was nearing lunch so Vaerfetets Madmarked. This was maybe the coolest find for food. The inside has food stalls with international cuisine: greek, Italian, Asian, etc... They have several couches, armchairs, tables. It's cozy and the food was delicious. Most of the food looked so good that it was difficult to decide on what it eat. They also have adult beverages to enjoy.
No longer hangry, we set off to Frederiksborg Castle: Built in the early 1600s, Frederiksborg Castle was Scandinavia's largest Renaissance palace. A royal residence for a century, fire forced it to become a national history museum showcasing Danish culture. We walked across a bridge and headed in. You get to walk around at your own leisure and this one is lavishly decorated with ornate details, art, furniture, armor, etc.. This castle was the most colorful and has so much gold.
We left and headed to the Viking Ship Museum in Roskilde: (1962) showcases five incredible Viking ships unearthed nearby. Dating back to 10th-11th centuries, these vessels were sunk to block a fjord and are a window into Viking shipbuilding and life. This museum was very modern and the ships were in various conditions, some better than others. The indoor museum's main showcase was the ships. They also have an exterior area with more replica ships and a immersive viking replica village, it even included actors and activities. As two adults, this was a bit cheesy for our taste but if you have children, it's probably a nice way to spend the afternoon teaching them about history.
The next stop was Roskilde Cathedral, Denmark's most important church, is a UNESCO treasure. Built in the 12th century, it's the royal burial ground and a stunning example of Gothic architecture. This place was HUGE. It has tombs underground and caskets on display. In total, 39 Danish kings and queens are housed within its walls, each reflecting the artistic style of the era. There is also a lot of marble statues, mosaic art, iron gates, and stained glass. This is another spot that you would spend a good chunk of time wandering around.
After this, we decided to make the trek to Ansager where we would stay the remaining time we had. We found a house with a bedroom, living room and kitchen for about $35/night. This seemed to be an easy stay (*more to come on this and I don't recommend this company AT ALL), we booked through DanCenter and stopped at their local office in Ansager to pick up our key and linens. We arrived at the house and the homeowner, whom lives in the bottom level greeted us. The "apartment" we rented was right upstairs and the only real shared area was the entry. It would have been perfect, if this homeowner wasn't a chain smoker and the smoke didn't rise to use above. Otherwise the place was nice and conveniently located for the rest of our adventures.
May 6 – Bike Rides, Coffee Breaks & Danish Design
We headed toward Lindholm Hoje in the morning. This site is a Viking burial ground (8th-10th centuries AD) overlooking Aalborg. Hundreds of Viking graves marked by stones (triangles for men, ovals for women) and preserved by sand offer a glimpse into their past. The site also holds traces of an older settlement (5th century AD). It was pretty awesome wandering around here. Since we arrived super early, we had the place to ourselves. They have a free parking area and it's a very short walk to the gravesite. We were unable to see the museum due to the early hour. It was a peaceful way to spend some time.
From there we continued north to Skagan and more specifically Grenen: northernmost tip of Jutland, Denmark, where the Skagerrak and Kattegat seas meet. Here you can stand where two seas meet and you can literally see where the two sea's waves collide. This one has a parking area and it's quite a bit of a hike on the beach to get to the exact point but the entire walk is beautiful. At the start of the walk, you will also see some old bunkers that date back to the German occupation in WWII. There is also a museum if you are looking to learn more about them. We didn't stop in so I can't speak to how good it is. Afterward, we headed into Skagen and found the harbor. We parked and looked for a place to get some seafood. We found a place called Wittco Fish and Shellfish which was a buffet style place. It was delicious and since it was such a beautiful day, we ate outside. I would recommend checking this place out if you are in town.
From there we drove to the sand-covered church officially named Den Tilsandede Kirke. It was buried by drifting sand in the 18th century. The church was built in the late 14th century and was the largest church in Vendsyssel at the time. The oldest literature about this church dates to 1387 and it was dedicated to Saint Laurence. It has been rebuilt a way times and eventually buried. They left the tower as a sea mark. There is a parking lot and it's a pretty easy walk to the church. You can enter the tower although it is small and nothing too interesting to inside. We made a quick stop at Rabjerg Mile which is Europe's largest moving dune in northern Jutland, Denmark. This 40-meter tall sand giant swallows everything in its path as it marches 15 meters northeastward each year, creating a constantly shifting landscape. Despite the harsh environment, plants and insects thrive here. Again, there was parking in several locations and a pretty steep climb up a dune. We didn't spend much time here but it was a cool little stop to see one of "Europe's Largest" landmarks. We detoured to Rubjerg Knude Lighthouse which is a landlocked lighthouse for a reason: It was first lit on December 27, 1900 and built to aid navigation for ships traveling in the Skagerrak Sea. However, due to severe coastal erosion, the sand dunes around the lighthouse began to shift. By the 1990s, the shifting sands had become a threat to the lighthouse's stability. In 2019, the lighthouse was relocated inland which is where it remains. The decision to move it was to prevent it from collapsing into the sea. The parking area is about 1/2 mile away and you pass some sheep. Next on the list was Saltum Strand. It is known for its fine, white sand, wide dunes, and clean water. The beach is also a popular spot for swimming, sunbathing, and windsurfing. It is a beach that you can drive on so we parked and just hung out enjoying the view as it was a bit too cold to partake in any water activities. Afterward, we headed out into nature at Rold Skov. The forest is one of the largest in Denmark and it sits on a high-lying moraine plateau formed by glaciers over 18,000 years ago. The landscape itself was shaped by the retreating ice sheets. It is 8,000 acres and a lot of trails for hiking, biking, horse back riding, etc. We found a parking area and took an hour to hike around in the woods. It was yet another peaceful activity and we never saw another person. It was a long day of adventure so we found a restaurant along the route back to the hotel and showered and relaxed for a bit before heading to bed.
May 7 – Countryside Charm & Hidden Gems
We started to head West and stopped at Henne Strand. Honestly, it wasn't the best day and the view wasn't that great. It was windy and cold so we walked to the beach and almost immediately got back in the car to drive to the next stop. We headed to Daemningsvejen near Filso lake. This was a nature preserve and it had some trails and wildlife. We took a short trail because again it was cold and windy, not the most enjoyable weather to be enjoying a leisure day at the lake. It was pretty to see the Lake and I'd imagaine when the flowers are blooming, it would be quite beautiful. We headed on to the Blavand Lighthouse which is Denmark's westernmost point, is a 39-meter tall historic landmark built in 1900. It guides ships and offers stunning views (climbable!) of the coastline. It isn't open to climb until June but we were able to get close to it. Close to the lighthouse was Muldyr Bunkerne where two World War II bunkers located. They were constructed in 1942 by the German occupying forces during the war and were intended to serve as coastal defense fortifications. They were equipped with artillery guns and machine guns, and they were manned by German soldiers. After the war, they fell into disrepair but were restored and opened to the public in the 1990's. If you like WWII history, it's probably worth a stop. If you like art, it's also worth a stop since they have added horse heads and tails. Further south from there is another art display: Men by the Sea. It is four, 9-meter tall white concrete statues of seated men looking out towards the sea. It was created by Svend Wiig Hansen and installed in 1995. It's quite an impressively large display and there is parking right by it. If you find yourself in this area, it's a quick detour and quite the sight.
The next stop at Ribe Viking Center. It is pretty touristy with parking attendants guiding traffic into the parking lot. We walked up, checked out the gift shop and saw a bit of the "attraction", it appeared to be a reenactment of a viking village, the gift shop was pricey and you had to pay admission to wander around the village so we passed and headed into Ribe. Ribe dates back to the 8th century and is claimed to be the oldest town in Denmark. It has a medieval look and a lot of shops and restaurants. We headed to Ribe Domsogn which is the oldest cathedral in Denmark. It is also known as one of the best preserved Romanesque buildings and was built in 1150. It is hard to miss as it's a showstopper in the heart of town. We then wandered around town, ate some lunch and shopped. It was such a charming little town. On the drive back to Ansager, we stopped at Tulipaner and had perfect timing for the tulips in full bloom. You could wander the fields and take photos. It was such a cool experience and the flowers were just gorgeous. So many colors. Another stop on the way back was Kalvslund Kirke which may have been constructed around 1150. It has a beautifully maintained cemetery and landscaping. That is one theme with Denmark, all the churches have beautiful cemeteries on the premises. The exterior of all the churches we saw tend to be white and similar in style.
Our most unique stop was Deep Forest Art Land in Kibaek. We didn't expect much out of this place but it looked interesting. It's inside a forest and it's a $5 donation to a box to enter. Scout's honor style. There is a large parking area and a trail that you follow with art exhibits along the way. Some are beautiful, some are unique, some are strange and some fit into some "none of the above" categories. It made the hike fun though. I can't help but include a lot of photos from this place. So enjoy below. We then headed to our rental for the night and had some leftovers for dinner.
May 8 – Food Markets, Pastries & Street Discoveries
We cruised to Jelling and checked out a church there. Again, it has a well maintained and beautiful cemetary. The site also had a Danish Runic 41: The Jelling stones were erected by King Gorm the Old and his son King Harald Bluetooth. They are considered pivotal in Danish history as they mark the transition from Norse paganism to Christianity in Denmark. We headed to Vejle to see a historic windmill is a traditional Danish windmill, likely dating back several centuries. Windmills have played a significant role in Denmark's history, primarily used for grinding grain into flour and aiding in agriculture. It is no longer in use but an easy detour to see some history. While in town, we took a drive through Deer Park Vejle. We only has the pleasure of seeing a few deer and it was from a distance. The road took us to Horsens next to see a public art sculpture in Langelinieanlaegget. It's two large troll statues and it was a pretty impressive site. We made a stop at Faengslet which is a prison museum: The prison was designed by the architect Michael Gottlieb Bindesbøll in a distinctive Neo-Romanesque style. It was in operation for almost 150 years and was decomissioned in 2006. It was unfortunately closed for tours on the day we arrived but they did allow use to walk around the perimeter and the gift shop was open. We continued on to Ebeltoft which dates back to a 12th century fishing village. It is now a scenic historic town. We wandered around and enjoyed the historic buildings and uneven stones streets. The highlight of the day was Rander's Rainforest: which isn't a normal zoo but rather a tropical zoo and botanical garden housed in large domes. It aims to recreate the environment of a rainforest with exotic plants and animals. You move through different biodomes aimed to mimic the environments of the animals/plants that they house. A lot of the animals roam freely but obviously the predators are seperated and a bit more contained. We had so much fun here and it was definitely unique.
May 9 – Art, Architecture & Colorful Streets
We woke up early and stopped by the Tistrup Church which was likely built in the 12th century and has some additions added during the medieval period. We also stopped at the Hodde old school and church. The church was built in the 1700’s and has undergone a lot of restoration over the years. It looks fantastic with a really pretty and well maintained cemetery attached. The old school was built in 1831 and was a school and teacher’s residence until 1955 when it stopped operations. While there, someone showed up and let us inside the church. It had a really impressive ornate alter. The woman was very nice and was surprised tourists were in the area. It appears a lot of tourists do not go into the countryside as we were asked frequently if we were visiting relatives and people seemed surprised when we said “no”. We drove through Olgod which is known for their unusual statues all over town. We didn’t really stop to photograph them but did appreciate them through the car window. We stopped by Dalgasstenen: Dalgas was in head of the cultivation of the heath in the 19th century and this monument was erected in 1897 for him. We checked out an old fishing town called Hvide Sande. It wasn’t overly impressive but we did snap a photo of the lighthouse and we stopped at the Hvide Sande Rogeri ApS for some fresh fish. It was delicious and worth the stop. We had to stick with spreads and smoked meats as we didn’t have a way to keep our items cool though. However, they had just about anything you’d want.
We headed back north and we were in luck because the annual Sand Sculpture festival was happing in Sondervig. It was a bit confusing to figure out how to get in because it was the first day it was open and some people were still working on their sculptures. We paid a few dollars to enter and I was amazed. These were massive and detailed. The theme was greek mythology and we just wandered around in complete awe. We easily spent an hour roaming the area.
Afterward, we headed to the Monsted Kalkgruber which includes nearly 40 miles and 1,000 years of limestone mines under Denmark. From the 11th to the 19th century these mines were used to build cathedrals mostly by hand until machinery was introduced in the 18th century. Limestone remained profitable until the 20th century. These were shut down in 1953. These caves were then owned by concert violinist that used them for concerts and now they are owned by a museum for tours. Only 2km are lighted and about 18,000 bats live here. We got to wander around the lighted portion and this was one heck of a way to end our trip. We returned back to the house we were renting and prepared for our drive to the airport the following morning.
🗺 Explore Our Denmark Route on Google Maps
See all our stops—from Copenhagen to countryside zones and colorful city neighborhoods—plotted on an interactive map.
🇩🇰 View Denmark Trip MapFinal Thoughts on Denmark 🇩🇰
Denmark in May is a magical balance of charm and ease. From cycling through colorful Copenhagen neighborhoods to wandering castle courtyards and sipping coffee by the canals, every moment felt both relaxed and inspiring.
The mix of culture, design, and hygge evenings gave the trip a warmth that went beyond just sightseeing. While the weather can be unpredictable, it added a playful edge to the adventure—sunshine one moment, cozy café stops the next.
If you’re looking for a destination that blends history, food, and everyday beauty, Denmark is one of those places that lingers long after you return home.
Travel Tips for Denmark 🇩🇰
🚲 Getting Around
- Copenhagen is built for bikes—rent one to explore like a local.
- Public transit is reliable and easy to navigate; grab a Rejsekort travel card for buses, trains, and the metro.
🍽 Food & Drinks
- Don’t miss trying smørrebrød (open-faced sandwiches) at least once.
- Cafés are a cultural staple—embrace the hygge and linger over coffee and pastries.
💵 Budgeting
- Denmark is pricey—plan to budget extra for dining out and attractions.
- Tap-to-pay cards and mobile payments are widely accepted, so you rarely need cash.
🌦 Weather & Packing
- May weather is unpredictable—pack layers, a light jacket, and an umbrella.
- Comfortable shoes are a must for cobblestone streets and long walks.