Un-Belize-Able January 2025

January 7th: Belize Arrival & First Impressions

We had an early morning flight, so we woke up at 3:00 AM and left for the airport around 4:00 AM. Thankfully, Alaska Airlines flies out of Terminal 3, which made security a breeze. After a short flight, we landed at LAX and endured a 4-hour layover — boring, but uneventful.

The flight to Belize was smooth and about 5 hours long. I brought along my new Trtl neck pillow and, for once, actually managed to sleep for nearly three hours (game-changer!).

The Belize airport was surprisingly efficient. We were off the plane, through immigration, grabbed our bag, and outside in about 30–45 minutes. Finding a taxi was simple, too — no scams or haggling needed. The ride to our hotel took about 25 minutes.

We stayed at the Belcove Hotel, a basic budget stay I’d only recommend if, like us, you’re just spending the night before catching the San Pedro water taxi. The check-in process was easy, and we headed one block over to Old River Bar and Grill for dinner. The food was okay, but seating was outdoors, the wind was insane, and the club-level music was so loud we decided to take it to-go and eat in our room.

The hotel itself… well, it served its purpose. The shower worked, but there was no towel for the floor, which was inconvenient since the bathroom was tiny and close to the toilet. The beds weren’t comfortable, but at least there were plenty of pillows, plus a fridge and AC. The biggest downside? Paper-thin walls and a lot of outside noise. Still, for one night, it did the job.

January 8th: San Pedro Bliss: Iguanas, Chocolate, Art & Oceanfront Eats 🌴🐊🍫

We left the hotel around 7:30 AM and walked to the San Pedro water taxi for our 8:00 AM reservation. The process was smooth: we checked our bags, picked up our paper tickets, and boarded without issue. The ride took about 1.5 hours, and disembarking on the other side was just as efficient.

Once we collected our luggage, we inquired about a taxi — and one was already waiting. It cost $10 USD to get to our hotel. One thing to know about San Pedro taxis: almost anyone can be a taxi. Our driver pulled up in an unmarked van with construction tools in the back, but he quoted the price upfront and didn’t play games, so we hopped in.

We checked in at Belize Budget Suites, where Jose, the owner, greeted us warmly and helped with our bags. Since our room wasn’t ready yet, Jose and his wife stored our luggage so we could start exploring. Jose also arranged for a golf cart rental — the primary mode of transportation here — and had it delivered right to the hotel. We had tried to pre-book one in advance but were told they were sold out. So, if that happens to you, don’t stress — it worked out perfectly.

Jose also recommended a snorkeling tour for the next day. We followed the guide to Pro Dive Shop to pay for both the golf cart and the tour:

  • Golf cart$50 USD/day

  • Snorkeling tour$74 USD/person

After that, we headed to The Angler for lunch and had an incredible lobster tail. I also ordered a fisherman’s cocktail, which was like a shrimp cocktail but with their homemade cocktail sauce — absolutely delicious.

In the afternoon, we visited the Iguana Sanctuary, which operates on donations and is essentially a local man’s property where he’s created a safe, natural habitat for iguanas. There are no cages or enclosures — the iguanas are free to come and go, choosing to stay because of the food and shelter he provides.

Since it was an overcast and rainy day, most of the iguanas were perched high up in the trees, but we still got to see several of them moving through the branches. On sunny days, they come down to the ground, and you can even feed them bananas. If the weather improves, we’re considering stopping back tomorrow for a second visit. As an animal lover, I thought this place was amazing — simple, natural, and peaceful.

eco iguana sanctuary in San Pedro Belize
green iguana in a tree at eco iguana sanctuary in San Pedro Belize.
green iguana in a tree at eco iguana sanctuary in San Pedro Belize.

Afterward, we headed to the Belize Chocolate Shop, an absolute must-visit for anyone with a sweet tooth. They offered delicious chocolates, teas, coffees, brownies, cookies, and milkshakes—everything we tried was amazing.

The shop also has a beautiful and peaceful sitting area in the back that overlooks the ocean, making it the perfect spot to enjoy your treats. Beyond the sweets, they sell a variety of products, including coffee beans, cocoa beans, teas, chocolate-based bath and body products, vinegars, and lip balms.

If you’re in San Pedro, I’d definitely recommend stopping here for both the experience and the goodies.

Chocolate Boutique in San Pedro Belize
Chocolate Boutique in San Pedro Belize.  Cookies, chocolates and chocolate iced tea
Chocolate Boutique in San Pedro Belize.  Products sold
Chocolate Boutique in San Pedro Belize.  View for the beach from the back deck
Chocolate Boutique in San Pedro Belize.  view of products

We then wandered through the nearby gift shops and stumbled upon some beautiful artwork made from butterfly wings. We decided this would be our “big souvenir” for the trip and happily paid up for it… only to later discover it in an art gallery for way less. 😅 So yes, scammed on day one—lesson learned!

As we continued exploring, we came across Central Park, which was still decorated for Christmas and featured a large, colorful San Pedro sign—perfect for photos and soaking in the festive vibes.

San Pedro Belize city sign on the beach.

Across from the park was the clock tower, and just to the right stood the San Pedro Roman Catholic Church. We actually missed it the first time around but made sure to see it later in the trip.

At this point, we decided to head back to the hotel to check into our room. When we arrived, they already had everything set up with our luggage inside, which was a nice touch. The room itself was spacious, adorable, and fish-themed—such a fun vibe. Honestly, this is one of the better budget stays we’ve ever booked. The staff was incredibly friendly and helpful, going above and beyond to make us feel welcome. I 100% recommend Belize Budget Suites if you’re staying in San Pedro.

Fish themed bedroom at the Budget Suites in San Pedro Belize
Fish the kitchen at the Budget Suites in San Pedro Belize
Fish themed decor at the Budget Suites in San Pedro Belize

We decided to head out again and explore a nearby marina area, which was really pretty and had several cute little shops. If you’re into art, I highly recommend checking out Belizean Art—it’s a fantastic store with good prices (yes… including much cheaper prices on the exact piece we’d already splurged on earlier 🤦‍♀️). The shop had some really unique pieces, and I picked up a hand-painted magnet to add to my collection from the countries I’ve visited.

From there, we stopped by the San Pedro Roman Catholic Church, which was eccentric, vibrant, and brightly colored—definitely worth a quick visit.

San Pedro Roman catholic church in san pedro belize
San Pedro Roman catholic church in san pedro belize
Belizean Art in San Pedro Belize.  Unique artwork, local art

After browsing through Belizean Art, we did a little more shopping, grabbing some water and caffeine to recharge before heading to Blue Water Grill for dinner. The restaurant sits right on the ocean, and the views were absolutely gorgeous—the perfect spot to wind down the day.

We ordered a variety of fresh seafood dishes, which were good, though not quite as amazing as our earlier meal at The Angler. Still, the overall vibe made up for it. We managed to sneak in without a reservation right when they opened for dinner but had to be finished by 6 PM since the tables were booked afterward—so if you plan to visit, reservations are definitely recommended.

The drink menu was creative and fun, with plenty of specials to choose from, adding to the relaxing evening atmosphere.

Blue Water Grill in San Pedro Belize, decor beach
Blue Water Grill in San Pedro Belize beach view from the table with palm trees
Blue Water Grill in San Pedro Belize conch ceviche seafood

By the time we finished dinner, the sun had set, and we made our way back to the hotel under the warm, coastal night sky. After a busy day of exploring, shopping, and indulging in plenty of seafood, we finally settled in for a quiet, relaxing evening before heading to bed—resting up for another adventure-filled day ahead.

January 9 – Snorkels, Sharks & Sweet Treats: A Perfect Day in San Pedro🐢🦈🌊

Today was our Chan Ho snorkeling adventure, so we headed to the Pro Dive Center early, checked in, and extended our golf cart rental for the day. After getting fitted with gear, we waited until 9:00 AM to board the boat, which departed right on time.

The ride out to our first snorkeling stop took about 15 minutes at high speed, which was both exciting and refreshing. Once anchored, we were given optional flotation vests, masks, flippers, and mouthpieces. Small groups of 4–8 people were assigned a guide, and we jumped off the side of the boat to explore the reef.

The water was stunningly clear, and we spotted a variety of colorful fish and coral. The highlight of this stop was seeing a sea turtle gliding peacefully through the water—absolutely magical! That said, the area was busy with multiple groups, making it a little challenging to fully immerse yourself without occasionally bumping into other snorkelers.

After climbing back on board, we were provided fresh fruit and water before heading to Shark Ray Alley. Here, the crew tossed sardines into the water, attracting several nurse sharks. As promised, the sharks quickly dispersed once the food was gone. We had about 10 minutes to snorkel among them, which was thrilling but surprisingly calm—the sharks were completely uninterested in us.

The water was a little chilly at first but overall comfortable, especially since today was warmer and sunnier than yesterday. After about an hour and a half total in the water, we zipped back to the Dive Shop at high speed.

Overall, this was a fun and memorable experience, especially for first-time visitors to San Pedro.

Chan Ho snorkeling adventure with majestic blue water selfie
Shark Ray Alley Chan Ho snorkeling adventure in san pedro.  sharks with snorklers in bight blue water
Chan Ho snorkeling adventure Shark Ray Alley sharks in water blue aqua

Lunch with a View, Sweet Treats & Iguana Encounters 🦎🌴🐟

Once back on land, we hopped on the golf cart and drove over to Palapa Bar and Grill, located at the end of a long dock overlooking the ocean. The vibe here was relaxed and fun, with plenty of tasty menu options and beautiful water views. I ordered the smoked fish dip appetizer and the fish tacos—both were delicious and came in huge portions. There was no way I could finish it all, but every bite was worth it.

Palapa also has loungers and inner tubes where you can float and relax in the water, making it a great spot to hang out if you have extra time.

After lunch, we attempted to visit another iguana sanctuary, only to discover it didn’t exist—apparently outdated info online. But our detour turned into a win because it led us to Casa Pan Dulce Bakery. This place had an incredible selection of freshly baked sweets, cakes, buns, and cupcakes, and we couldn’t resist grabbing a little treat for the road.

From there, we circled back to the Iguana Eco Sanctuary to try our luck one more time—and this time, we hit the jackpot! As soon as we walked in, we spotted several iguanas basking on the ground. I even got to feed one a banana and give him a gentle little scratch. It was such a cool experience and totally worth coming back.

Pro Tip: Visit in the morning on sunny days—that’s when the iguanas are most active and hanging out on the ground. Once it cools down, they retreat to higher branches.

After donating a few more pesos to support the sanctuary, we headed back to the hotel to relax and recharge. Both of us were feeling a little off for different reasons, so some downtime was much needed before the evening.

Green iguana with toy at Eco Iguana Sanctuary in San Pedro Belize
Green iguana on ground at Eco Iguana Sanctuary in San Pedro Belize
Green iguana on a tree at Eco Iguana Sanctuary in San Pedro Belize
Feeding a Green iguana  at Eco Iguana Sanctuary in San Pedro Belize

Evening Vibes: Dockside Dining & Sweet Treats 🌅🍦🐠

After a busy morning and afternoon, we decided to take it easy at the hotel for a bit, knowing we had a lot of activity planned for the next couple of days and an early start tomorrow.

Later in the evening, we ventured back out for dinner at Ol’ Tackle Box Bar & Grill, a laid-back spot located at the end of a dock. It was breezy but beautiful, with ocean views and a relaxed vibe. I ordered the Poke Tostados, which were fresh and flavorful. The staff was super friendly, making the atmosphere even better.

After dinner, we treated ourselves to Paradise Ice Cream, a charming little shop with both indoor and outdoor seating. I tried a bowl with peanut butter cup and cotton candy crunch, and both flavors were delicious. It was the perfect sweet ending to the day.

From there, we headed back to the hotel, got settled in, and called it an early night to rest up for tomorrow’s adventures.

Ol’ Tackle Box Bar & Grill on the dock in San Pedro Belize
Poke Tostados at Ol' Tackle Box Bar san pedro Belize.  Seafood, poke
Paradise Ice Cream peanut better cup ice cream cotton candy ice cream.  San Pedro Belize.

January 10 – Jaguars, Monkeys & Mayan Ruins: A Perfect Belize Adventure Day 🚤🚗

We woke up early, and our pre-arranged taxi arrived right on time at 6:20 AM to take us to the water taxi station for our 7:00 AM ferry. The station wasn’t busy, and once again, the process was smooth and efficient — they quickly took our bags, gave us our tickets, and sent us on our way to the boarding line.

Apparently, the water taxi terminal in San Pedro had just moved locations on Monday, so the new spot is still very basic. There weren’t many shops, drinks, or food options available, though we heard there’s a bathroom tucked somewhere near the entrance.

We boarded the boat promptly at 7:00 AM and began the ride back to Belize City. At first, the ferry was pretty empty, giving us plenty of space to stretch out. However, after the first stop at Caye Caulker, a large group of passengers boarded, and the boat became tightly packed for the rest of the journey.

Despite the crowd, the company remained efficient — we collected our bags quickly upon arrival and easily located the rental car representative waiting for us.

water taxi terminal in San Pedro belize.  Sunrise view from the dock
water taxi from san pedra to belize city.

After grabbing our bags, we rode with our driver to the rental car place in Ladyville and picked up a Jeep — a deliberate choice after learning our lesson in Guatemala (trust me, you want something sturdy for Belize’s roads). From there, we drove straight to the hotel to drop off our luggage. The manager was super accommodating, helping us unload and complete the paperwork. Since the room wasn’t quite ready at 10 AM, we decided to make the most of our morning and head out for a little adventure.

First Stop: Altun Ha Ruins

Altun Ha was once a major trading and ceremonial center between 200 BCE and 900 CE during the Classic Period of the Maya civilization. The site is famous for its impressive temples, including the Temple of the Masonry Altars, and the discovery of the Jade Head — a carving of the Maya Sun God, Kinich Ahau. The ruins played a significant role in regional trade, connecting the Maya to both coastal and inland networks. Its name translates to “Rockstone Pond” in Yucatec Maya.

The site was easy to find, though the road leading there had its fair share of massive potholes. At one point, we hit one so deep that it knocked our Jeep out of gear and completely shut off the engine. 😳 Luckily, the car restarted without issue — and even luckier, no other vehicles were coming from the opposite direction when it happened!

Once we arrived, we found a decent-sized parking lot with a few small restaurants and souvenir vendors nearby. Feeling hungry, we followed a local guide’s recommendation and ate at his Aunt’s restaurant, Mayan Sunrise. The fried red snapper with rice and beans was deliciously seasoned — one of the best meals of the trip so far — and the total was only $30 USD for two plates.

With full bellies, we headed into the archaeological site to explore. Altun Ha features two main areas with climbable staircases that lead to beautiful aerial views of the surrounding jungle. The pyramids themselves are in fairly good condition, making it a rewarding stop.

Tip: You can hire a local guide at the entrance if you want a deeper dive into Maya history. Since we’ve visited several other ruins, we opted to explore on our own, but if this is your first Maya site, I’d definitely recommend hiring one to enrich the experience.

Altun Ha mayan ruins in belize
Altun Ha mayan ruins in belize ariel view
Altun Ha mayan ruins in belize.  Main entrance view
Altun Ha mayan ruins in belize.  Temple of the Masonry Alters

Baboon Howler Monkey Sanctuary – A Wild & Unexpected Highlight 🐒🌿

After leaving Altun Ha, we made our way to the Baboon Howler Monkey Sanctuary, not entirely sure what to expect. At first glance, it felt a little underwhelming — a tiny museum space and a group of monkeys mid-meal when we arrived. But once they finished eating and a guide was arranged, we quickly realized how wrong we were to underestimate this place.

Our guide took us about ¼ mile up the road to a private section of the jungle, where six black howler monkeys live freely in their natural habitat. The land here is owned by local families who have collectively agreed to allow their properties to be used for the sanctuary since the monkeys pose no harm to crops or homes.

We were lucky enough to spot five of the six monkeys, including an inquisitive one-year-old male who curiously climbed close to us in the trees. Our guide explained that these monkeys never come down to the ground — they get all the water they need from fruits and stay high in the canopy to avoid predators like wild cats.

The sixth monkey, a pregnant female, had wandered off to give birth and would return within a few days once her newborn is strong enough. We also got a special treat: with a little encouragement from our guide, the adult male let out a deep, echoing howl that carried through the trees. Hearing it up close was unreal!

Our guide shared some fascinating facts about howler monkey behavior:

  • When a younger male challenges the dominant male for leadership, the winner is determined not through fighting but through howling contests — the loudest and longest roar wins.

  • The loser isn’t injured but instead is shunned by the group and often spends the rest of his life in solitude, especially in older age.

We finished with a short, flat hike through the jungle, where our guide pointed out details about the local ecosystem and even spotted a green iguana lounging high up in a tree.

This experience ended up being one of the highlights of the day — an intimate, educational, and unforgettable encounter with wildlife in their true natural habitat.

Baboon Howler Monkey Sanctuary monkeys father and baby in a tree
Baboon Howler Monkey Sanctuary baby monkey in a tree

Belize Zoo – A Rescue Haven in the Jungle

It was still fairly early, so we decided to head to the Belize Zoo, a truly unique spot that feels more like a walk through the jungle than a traditional zoo. What makes this place special is that it operates primarily as a rescue and rehabilitation center. Many of the animals here have incredible backstories — from an orphaned tapir and a one-eyed jaguar to a tapir rescued from a forest fire, confiscated animals, and even a stork that fell from its nest.

Whenever possible, the zoo works to re-release animals back into the wild, but for those unable to survive on their own, this becomes a permanent sanctuary. The pathways are shaded and surrounded by lush greenery, making it an enjoyable and relaxing walk.

The stars of the day were definitely the one-eyed jaguar and the river otter, both full of personality and seemingly eager to entertain us. We visited around 3 PM on a Friday, and it was peaceful and quiet with very few other visitors — the perfect way to wrap up an already incredible day.

spider monkey at Belize Zoo hanging from a tree
Brown Pelican at Belize Zoo standing on a log over greenish brown water
one eyed jaguar laying on a rock at Belize Zoo

Settling In at Lucca’s and Our Hotel Stay

On our way back to the hotel, we stopped at Lucca’s, a casual bar and restaurant right on the ocean. The setting was lovely, though the strong winds made the mostly outdoor seating a bit challenging. I ordered the shrimp nachos, which turned out to be just okay—overloaded with chips and sauce. I mostly picked out the shrimp and called it good.

From there, we headed to the hotel to finally check in and pick up our keys and key fob for the gated parking. Stepping into the room was a pleasant surprise—it was luxurious, spacious, and spotless, still carrying that “new” scent. The room featured a mini kitchen, a thoughtful touch of fresh coconut bread waiting on the counter, and a large bathroom with a fancy adjustable anti-fog mirror and hot water.

The beds were comfortable, piled with extra pillows, and our bags were already neatly placed inside. At first glance, it felt like we had found the perfect place to spend our last four nights in Belize. The staff was friendly and accommodating, making check-in effortless.

The palms belize city hotel bedroom spacious clean room
The palms belize city hotel kitchen charming, clean
The palms belize city hotel bathroom clean large

January 11 — From Hopkins to Belmopan: A Perfect Belize Road Trip Along the Hummingbird Highway

We left the hotel around 7 AM and headed southeast toward the Xaibel Shell Gas Station in Hope Creek, which is known for its local snacks and fresh juices. The building was decked out in full Coca-Cola Christmas décor, making it impossible to miss. Conveniently, we also needed gas, so it was a perfect stop to fuel both ourselves and the car.

From there, we tried to visit Marie Sharp’s, famous for its hot sauces and jams. Unfortunately, this was our first Google Maps fail of the day—the saved location led us to the wrong place, forcing us to backtrack about 5 miles. Follow the signs, not the map! The correct turnoff is clearly marked, but be warned: the road is terrible—a rough gravel path about a mile long.

When we finally arrived, we were greeted by a closed gate. A guard informed us that the girl handling the shop was busy with a tour and that we’d have to wait 20 minutes. Since we weren’t there for the tour and we knew we could find the sauces elsewhere, we decided to skip it and continue on.

Our next stop was Hopkins, where we attempted to visit Palmento Grove. This required another drive down an even rougher, narrower gravel road. When we finally arrived, we were met with a pond crossing we couldn’t figure out, so we headed into town instead.

We stopped at Semiti Griffiti, a restaurant with prime beachfront access. I ordered shrimp creole with curry rice, which was fantastic. While we were there, we learned they also offered a Garifuna cooking class, and we couldn’t resist.

The class focused on making Hudut, a traditional Garifuna dish. We started by peeling plantains, which were boiled and later mashed using a large mortar and pestle. We chopped onions, prepared garlic cloves, and cut up fresh oregano for the sauce.

Then came the hands-on coconut process:

  • Removing the husk with a machete

  • Cracking it open

  • Shredding the meat with a rotary tool

  • “Milking” the shredded coconut in water to make fresh coconut milk

The coconut milk simmered on the stove with spices, onions, and whole hot peppers, while the whole fish was seasoned and cooked in oil. Finally, the mashed plantains were rolled into balls and served on the side.

It was an extensive process—well over an hour from start to finish—but it was such a cool cultural experience. While the dish itself wasn’t my personal favorite, I truly appreciated learning about Garifuna traditions and hearing stories about their customs and beliefs as we cooked.

Semiti Griffiti in Hopkins Belize removing the husk from coconut

Removing the husk from a coconut

Semiti Griffiti in Hopkins Belize making coconut milk base.

making the coconut milk base

Semiti Griffiti in Hopkins Belize frying fish on a stove

Frying the fish

Semiti Griffiti in Hopkins Belize making plaintain mash

Making the plantain mash

Semiti Griffiti in Hopkins Belize complete meal Hudut

The meal

After lunch, the cooking and entire process took longer than expected, so we had to skip our planned waterfall hike. Instead, we left Hopkins and continued along the scenic Hummingbird Highway.

Our first stop was Ms. Bertha’s Tamales, but unfortunately, they were either sold out or closed for the day. Luckily, it was easy to find right off the highway, so we’ll definitely try again next time.

Just a few miles up the road, we came across Ana’s Fruit Stand, where we were greeted by a wonderfully friendly woman. For just $1 USD, we scored a full bag of fresh bananas, tangerines, and oranges — such an incredible deal!

Not far from there, we discovered The Country Barn, a local creamery offering cheese, milk, yogurt, and some of the best ice cream I’ve ever had. Since our car rental company provided us with a free mini cooler, and the sweet lady at the creamery gave us some ice, we stocked up on yogurt and milk to take along with us.

I HIGHLY recommend stopping here if you’re driving this route. The ice cream is not only delicious but also very affordable — $3 BZD for a scoop or $4 BZD for a double. They even sell quarts and gallons if you want to take some home. This little spot was definitely one of the highlights of our drive!

Ana's Fruit stand on the Hummingbird Highway in belize.  Stand with flowers around it.

Anna’s Fruit Stand

The country barn creamery on Hummingbird Highway in Belize

The Country Barn

Sleeping Giant Mountain 🌿

Our next stop was Sleeping Giant Mountain, where we were greeted by a small guarded booth. The guard waved us through easily and suggested we stop at the lobby for further directions — the only problem was, we couldn’t actually find the lobby! 😅

The resort grounds were absolutely stunning, though, and after wandering around a bit, I finally stopped an employee who kindly pointed us in the right direction. There’s a 20-minute hike in this area that we initially planned to do but ultimately decided to skip. If you have the time and energy, though, it’s probably worth it — the entire setting was breathtaking and serene.

By this point, we had decided that the highlight of our day was the cultural experience, and with an early morning ahead, we wanted to save our energy. Still, we had a few more must-stop locations before calling it a night. Next was the St Herman’s Blue Hole National Park. We paid a small nominal fee for admission and parking. They have some changing rooms where we changed into our swimming suits. Then you follow a short path through the woods and down some steep-ish stairs and then the blue hole comes into view. It’s crystal clear and aquamarine colored. The water was freezing so I only managed to dip my toes in. You can see fish swimming around. It’s definitely worth a quick stop and the admission gets you into the other entrance so you can hike or make a day out of your visit.

St Herman’s Blue Hole National Park on the hummingbird highway in belize
St Herman’s Blue Hole National Park on the hummingbird highway in belize

Lamanai Chocolate 🍫

Just a few miles further down the Hummingbird Highway, we stopped at Lamanai Chocolate — though be prepared, the driveway is a bumpy dirt road with plenty of potholes! This small shop sells a variety of treats, including cacao nibs, chocolate bars, truffles, coffee, tea, smoothies, and milkshakes.

There’s a cute little sitting area where you can relax and enjoy your goodies, and it seems to be a popular tour stop — we passed a van full of people on their way in as we were leaving. The staff was super friendly and even offered free samples, which was a nice touch.

Art Box in Belmopan 🎨

Our final stop for the day was Art Box, located in the heart of Belmopan — and this place is a must-visit! It’s a huge, beautifully designed store that’s packed with unique finds, souvenirs, and handmade goods. There’s also a charming little café inside, making it a perfect spot to grab a coffee while you browse.

Art Box carries Marie Sharp’s famous hot sauces, Belizean-made alcohol, and much of the artwork and crafts we’d seen in other shops — but here, the prices were clearly marked and very fair compared to other places. Whether you’re looking for gifts, home décor, or something special to bring back from Belize, this is one of the best shopping stops along the route.

Lamanai Chocolate on hummingbird highway in Belize
The Art Box in Belize colorful signage

January 12 – The ATM Cave Adventure

(Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave, Belize)

We were up early and on the road by 6:30 am, heading toward our meeting spot at Benges in Teakettle. We arrived a little ahead of schedule and waited for our guide to show up.

We really lucked out — our guide, Basilio Mes, prefers small, private groups, and we ended up being the only two people on the tour! The cost was $125 USD per person, which was the same price as joining a larger group, but we essentially got a private experience. For reference, we had priced private tours through Mayan Walking Tours, and they were going to be $500 for two people or $125 per person in a six-person group, so this felt like an incredible deal.

If you’re considering booking, I highly recommend Basilio:

Basilio Mes
📧 Exoticbelize@yahoo.com
📱 WhatsApp: +501-624-1470

Not only is he extremely knowledgeable, but he’s Mayan himself and provides tons of firsthand cultural insights into the cave and its history. Plus, he genuinely loves his job, and it shows. I also noticed that, unlike many of the guides leading large groups, Basilio constantly checked on us, told us exactly where to place our hands and feet, and made sure we were safe and comfortable the entire time.

Getting There 🚙

From Benges, we followed Basilio down a bumpy 7-mile dirt road with a few small water crossings. We had rented a Jeep, and it handled everything just fine. The road ends at a parking area where there are modern restrooms and picnic tables.

Basilio suggested we leave our backpacks behind and packed our socks and snacks in his dry bag. We carried our own bottles of water for the hike, but these are not allowed inside the cave — you’ll leave them before entering.

📸 Important Note: Cameras and phones are strictly prohibited. In the past, a visitor dropped a camera on an ancient skull, causing permanent damage, so no photos are allowed at all.

The Hike to the Cave 🌿

The hike starts almost immediately with a deep water crossing, so you will get wet within the first minute. Don’t worry — after the initial shock, the cold water becomes more tolerable.

From there, the trail continues through the jungle with two more water crossings before reaching the cave entrance. At each crossing, there’s a rope to hold on to, but be careful — multiple people often use it at the same time, and if someone jerks the line, you could lose your balance. The current isn’t terrible, but the rope definitely helps.

Before entering the cave, there’s a small rest area with basic toilets and picnic tables where groups wait so the entrance doesn’t get overcrowded. Since we were a small group, we didn’t have to wait long.

Entering the ATM Cave 🦇

To enter the cave, you swim against a mild current, which is surprisingly fun. You’re required to wear a life jacket for the entire tour, so even if you’re not a strong swimmer, you’ll be fine.

Inside, you’ll do a mix of walking, bouldering, climbing, and wading through water. It sounds intimidating, but with Basilio’s guidance, it was very manageable. You don’t need to be in top shape, but expect to feel tired from the constant activity.

However, there are a few tight squeezes inside the cave, so if you’re claustrophobic, be prepared. After walking about ⅓ mile through water passages, you’ll reach a climbing section that leads to the “dry” chamber — though “dry” is relative since the floor is still damp and a bit clay-like.

Before entering this chamber, you must remove your shoes and continue in socks only. Water shoes are not allowed in this area to help preserve the artifacts and surfaces inside.

Inside the Dry Chambers 🪨

This is where the magic — and the mystery — happens.

Inside the crystal and cathedral chambers, you’ll see:

  • Human remains — most believed to be from Mayan ritual sacrifices, mostly teenagers and young adults.

  • One incredibly well-preserved skeleton that’s often referred to as the “Crystal Maiden”.

  • Dozens of ceramic pots intentionally carried in and smashed as part of sacred ceremonies.

  • Beautiful stalactites and stalagmites formed over thousands of years.

  • Charred areas where ancient fires once burned, which have been carbon-dated by archaeologists.

Since our group was small, Basilio even took us to a bonus area where we saw the remains of a baby. Some skeletons show signs of blunt force trauma to the head, and one appears to have been hog-tied, likely a prisoner. Another skeleton nearby looks as though it was disemboweled, and Basilio explained that one theory suggests a ritual where another individual was forced to watch — their tears believed to bring rain.

The experience is both eerie and fascinating, a rare glimpse into the spiritual and cultural history of the ancient Maya.

The Journey Back 🌊

Once we finished exploring the dry chambers, we returned to collect our shoes and retraced our steps back through the wet sections of the cave. The water felt just as cold as the first plunge, but by this point, we were having so much fun it didn’t matter.

After making it back to the picnic table area, we rested for a bit before hiking the trail back through the jungle and water crossings to the parking area.

What to Wear & Bring 👟

I’d read a lot about people feeling cold in the cave, but I was comfortable the whole time thanks to the life jacket and what I wore:

  • Quick-drying hiking pants

  • Swim top + long-sleeve shirt

  • Closed-toe mesh water shoes

I was glad I wore long sleeves and pants — they protected me from scrapes on the rocks. My friend wore a tank top and ended up with minor cuts and even a small allergic reaction to something in the cave.

Other tips:

  • Socks are mandatory for the dry chamber.

  • Cameras and phones are not allowed — you’ll need to just enjoy the moment.

  • Pack snacks and socks in a dry bag (your guide can carry these).

  • The trail is mostly shaded, so sun exposure isn’t a problem.

  • There are a few mosquitos on the trail, but it wasn’t nearly as bad as other parts of Belize.

Final Thoughts 🌿

The ATM Cave was hands-down one of the most incredible experiences of our Belize trip. Between swimming, climbing, and exploring chambers filled with thousand-year-old artifacts, it’s an adventure unlike anything else.

I can’t recommend Basilio enough if you want a smaller, more personal experience. His passion, knowledge, and cultural insights made the day unforgettable.

If you’re visiting Belize, this tour is absolutely worth it — just be ready to get wet, get muddy, and get completely immersed in ancient history.

Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave, Belize ATM cave.  Cave entrance with green foliage and small waterfall

courtesy of Basilo

ancient human skeleton partially embedded in the cave floor at Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave, Belize (ATM), believed to be a mayan sacrificial remain

courtesy of Basilo

Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave, Belize ATM cave  Stalactites calcium carbonate

courtesy of Basilo

view of the wet chamber with stalactites at Actun Tunichil Muknal Cave, Belize ATM cave

courtesy of Basilo

Lunch at Warrie Head Restaurant 🥥🌿

After finishing our ATM Cave tour, we had pre-arranged to skip the traditional post-tour meal and instead made our way down the 7-mile road to Warrie Head Restaurant, located at a nearby resort.

The setting was peaceful and serene, tucked away in nature with the sounds of toucans, hummingbirds, and rustling leaves surrounding us. The staff and owners were extremely friendly and made us feel right at home. We initially sat at the first indoor table, but a staff member kindly suggested we move to the picnic tables outside — and they were right. The outdoor seating offered beautiful views and a much more relaxing vibe.

I ordered the chicken cordon bleu and finished off the meal with a peanut butter M&M ice cream — both were delicious and made the stop absolutely worth it.

Evening Spa Treatments 🕯️

After lunch, we drove back to the hotel where we had pre-arranged massages. The hotel itself doesn’t have an on-site spa therapist, but they were able to bring someone in within about an hour. While we were still at Warrie Head, I messaged our hotel contact, and he arranged everything perfectly for two hours later.

We rinsed off, headed down to the hotel’s spa area, and enjoyed relaxing massages — the perfect way to end such an active, adventurous day. By the time we finished, we were completely recharged and ready to wind down for the night.

Since our late lunch was around 3 pm, we decided to skip dinner and instead snacked on some of the fruit and goodies we’d picked up over the past few days.

January 13 – Our Last Day in Belize: Placencia, Butterflies, Chocolate & One Final Lobster Feast” 🌴

We started the morning early, hitting the road by 7:00 am and heading toward the charming little peninsula of Placencia. We weren’t quite sure what to expect, but we set our first destination to “The Sidewalk” — the village’s famous pedestrian pathway that was actually Placencia’s only road until 1984.

The sidewalk is officially recognized as the world’s narrowest main street! While it has been expanded over the years, it still maintains its quaint, narrow charm. Along the pathway, you’ll find shops, local vendors, restaurants, bars, and plenty of colorful signs pointing you toward hidden gems just off the sidewalk.

Barefoot Beach Bar 🍹🏖️

As we wandered along, we eventually landed at the Barefoot Beach Bar, an incredibly vibrant and colorful beach-front bar that immediately caught our eye.

Although it didn’t officially open until 11 am, the staff were kind enough to let us sit down, enjoy the view, and peruse the menu until the kitchen opened. And wow — the menu was extensive.

I ordered the lobster soft tacos, which were fresh and flavorful, and we decided to try the breadfruit fries — something I’d never seen or even heard of before. They looked like extra-long wedge fries, lightly crispy with just a hint of sweetness, but otherwise tasted similar to French fries. A fun little discovery!

The bar also had pages of drink specials, and I get the feeling the nightlife here can get pretty lively. The service was excellent, and between the ocean views, colorful vibe, and laid-back energy, it’s definitely worth stopping by.

Tutti Frutti Gelato 🍨

After lunch, we strolled back down The Sidewalk toward the car, cutting through to the main road so we could stop at Tutti Frutti Gelato — and wow, this place lived up to the hype.

It was basically a revolving door of customers, and most of them seemed to be locals the owner knew personally, which is always a great sign. The gelato was fantastic — creamy, flavorful, and clearly made with care. They rotate their flavors regularly, so each visit could be a completely different experience. If you’re in Placencia, this is a must-visit.

Impressions of Placencia 🌺

On our way out, we passed a few points of interest and small beachfront spots, taking in the laid-back charm of the peninsula. While Placencia reminded us a bit of San Pedro, it didn’t quite have the same overall vibe and energy — but it’s definitely a fun, colorful stop worth adding to your Belize itinerary.

Since we needed to pack later in the day, we decided to stay dry and skip any beach or water activities, making this a relaxed and low-key day before heading back to the hotel.

Beautiful beach view with boats on the shore and palm tree in Placencia Belize

The beach view

the narrowest street with colorful buildings on both sides, lined with palm trees in Placencia Belize

The narrow street

A cocktail in paradise with colorful chairs and tables in the background followed by water at the Barefoot Beach Bar in Placencia Belize

cocktail in paradise

charming white building with sunburnt red door for Tutti Frutti Gelato in Placencia Belize

Tutti Fruitti

Ya’axkin Butterfly Farm 🦋

After leaving Placencia, we drove back up toward the northern part of the peninsula and came across the Ya’axkin Butterfly Farm — a little hidden gem we just happened to spot thanks to its well-marked signs.

Admission was $15 USD, and the visit started with a visual education session on the entire butterfly lifecycle, from tiny eggs to caterpillars, chrysalises, and finally, fully-formed butterflies. There were detailed displays showing each stage, and it was surprisingly interesting and educational — I walked away learning way more about butterflies than I expected!

After the presentation, we walked across the street to the butterfly house, where we could spend as much time as we wanted surrounded by hundreds of butterflies. They fluttered all around us, occasionally landing on our arms and shoulders, while we learned even more about their mating habits, lifespan, and aging process.

One fascinating detail I didn’t know before: butterflies with tattered wings are generally in the final stage of their lifecycle. Seeing that up close gave the experience an extra layer of meaning.

The coolest part? The farm partners with a local artist who creates beautiful souvenirs made from butterfly wings — but only from butterflies that have naturally reached the end of their lives. We bought a couple of pieces, and it felt like the perfect full-circle moment — seeing the butterflies’ entire journey and then supporting sustainable artwork created from them.

This stop was unexpected, but it turned out to be one of the most unique and memorable experiences of the day.

close up of tiny butterfly eggs carefully laid on a green leaf at Ya’axkin Butterfly Farm in Belize
blue morpho butterfly display showing different stages at Ya’axkin Butterfly Farm in belize
close up of caterpillars feeding on a green leaf at Ya’axkin Butterfly Farm in Belize
several caterpillars crawling on a white surface with tiny black eggs at Ya’axkin Butterfly Farm in Belize
close up of neatly arranged butterfly cocoons on a display tray at Ya’axkin Butterfly Farm in Belize
traditional thatched-roof hut surrounded by palm trees at Ya’axkin Butterfly Farm in Belize
large owl butterfly resting on a vistor's hand at Ya’axkin Butterfly Farm in Belize

Che’il Mayan Chocolate 🍫

Just a short drive down the road from the Ya’axkin Butterfly Farm, we stopped at Che’il Mayan Chocolate, another small chocolate factory. Inside, they had a selection of chocolate bars, truffles, tea, cacao beans, and other goodies for sale.

They apparently offer tours, but the staff member we met didn’t mention it or try to upsell us, so we just browsed and bought a few items to try. The chocolate was good, but honestly, I thought the chocolate from the shop on San Pedro was a bit better. Still, if you’re in the area, it’s worth popping in for a quick visit — especially if you’re a chocolate lover.

Final Dinner in Belize – Midpoint Bar & Grill 🦞🌅

After our stop at Che’il, we headed back to the hotel to touch base with Marlin, confirm our departure plans for the next day, and get a few dinner recommendations. We packed, showered, and decided on Midpoint Bar & Grill for our final dinner by the water.

The setting was beautiful, and since it was our last night, I decided to end the trip the same way I started it — with lobster. This time, it was a 15-ounce lobster tail, and while it was good, it didn’t quite top the lobster at Angler’s from our first day in Belize.

However, I have to warn you — skip the pita bread here. I hate to say it, but it was terrible. People throw around the term “cardboard” loosely, but in this case, it really applied. It was so dry and chewy that I could barely eat it, which was a little disappointing because I love pita bread. Thankfully, the rest of the meal made up for it, and our waitress was attentive and friendly.

After dinner, we headed back to the hotel to mentally prepare for the inevitabletravel day. Leaving Belize after such an incredible trip was bittersweet, but when the worst part of your vacation is going home, you know it was a good one.

photo of the exterior of the Belize international airport in Belize City

Belize City Airport