Brazil: March 11–21, 2025

March 11–12: The Journey Begins

Our adventure kicked off smoothly with an uneventful takeoff—which, honestly, is exactly what you hope for at the start of a long international trip. We landed in Washington, D.C., grabbed dinner during our layover, and then boarded our overnight flight to São Paulo.

Excitement levels: high. Sleep levels: questionable.

March 12: Arrival in São Paulo & Onward to Curitiba

Fortunately, Brazilian immigration allows nationals to enter with foreigners, so my boyfriend and I went through the same line together. The process was surprisingly smooth—we only waited about three minutes before seeing the border agent.

After grabbing our luggage (which, of course, was among the last bags off the carousel 🙃), we headed toward customs. The São Paulo airport has two exits: one for those with nothing to declare and another for those declaring items. We went through the “nothing to declare” line, where travelers are randomly selected for checks—but we got lucky and passed through without any issues.

From there, we dropped our bags at the connecting flight baggage check and headed outside to catch the shuttle bus to Terminal 1. Fair warning: the wait for the bus was long and it was very crowded, so build in extra time here. The ride itself only took about 5–10 minutes.

Terminal 1 is small, and security was quick and easy. We grabbed some caffeine while waiting at our gate—because, let’s be honest, sleeping on overnight flights is never comfortable—and boarded our short flight to Curitiba by walking across the tarmac. The flight took about an hour, and we landed without issue.

Checking Into Curitiba

After collecting our bags, we grabbed an Uber to our hotel, the Xtay Princess. The room was compact—especially the bathroom—but it was clean, secure, and conveniently located near several attractions. I felt very safe there, and overall, it was a great base for our stay.

That said… the bed was extremely firm, the pillows were terrible, and if you like soft mattresses, prepare yourself. On the plus side, it had a small kitchenette with a fridge, which was a nice bonus. We arrived and got settled around 4 PM.

First Meal in Curitiba

Since we’d only had a small breakfast on the overnight flight, we were starving. We walked just one block to Café Casarão, where I ordered their “Xtra Burger” with fries—a massive and very Brazilian-style burger topped with a beef patty, cheese, ham, a fried egg, and sausage. Definitely not health food, but delicious.

I also tried their chocolate cake, which looked better than it tasted—it was a bit dry and not very sweet.

Evening Walking Tour

After dinner, my boyfriend gave me a guided walking tour of his city, showing me a few highlights around our hotel:

• Rua 24 Horas → A covered pedestrian street known for its unique, arched metal-and-glass roof designed by architects Abrão Assad and Simone Soares. Originally opened in 1991 as one of Brazil’s first 24-hour shopping and dining streets, it was meant to be a hub for both locals and tourists at all hours. These days, it’s no longer open 24/7, but it’s still a lively spot with restaurants, shops, coffee bars, and little boutiques.

• Praça Osório → One of Curitiba’s oldest and most traditional public squares, dating back to the 19th century. Located in the city center, it’s long been a social and cultural hub. The square is named after General Osório, a prominent Brazilian military leader known for his role in the Paraguayan War.

Evening Walking Tour (Continued)

After exploring Rua 24 Horas and Praça Osório, we checked out a few more notable spots nearby:

• Boca Maldita → One of the most famous public spaces in downtown Curitiba, Boca Maldita is known for its historical, political, and social importance. The name translates to “Cursed Mouth” or “Damned Mouth” and dates back to 1956, when a group of local journalists and intellectuals began gathering here for open discussions, debates, and political critiques. Located along Rua XV de Novembro, Curitiba’s main pedestrian street, it quickly became a symbolic meeting point where people exchanged ideas, engaged in political discourse, and participated in public demonstrations. Over the decades, Boca Maldita has remained a hub of social interaction, hosting everything from speeches and protests to celebrations.

• Praça Tiradentes → This is the oldest and most historically significant square in Curitiba, dating back to the city’s founding in 1693. It has long served as a central gathering point for political, religious, and social events. Today, it’s surrounded by shops, cafes, and historical buildings, making it a lively area to explore.

• Mercado Central → Located very close to our hotel, this market has evolved over time. My boyfriend explained that 20+ years ago, it was more of an artisan marketplace with handmade crafts and unique souvenirs. These days, however, many of the booths sell mass-produced items—think jerseys, sunglasses, and tennis shoes—most of which appear to be imported. The architecture of the building is interesting, though, and it’s still worth walking through even if you’re not planning to shop.

After wandering around Curitiba and visiting a few more sights, we headed back to the hotel and went to bed exhausted from the long day of travel and exploring.

March 13: Hop-On, Hop-Off Adventure

We started the morning with breakfast at Pão Lins, where I had an egg sandwich and a fresh lemonade—simple but delicious. From there, we headed back to Rua 24 Horas to catch the hop-on/hop-off tourist bus.

The bus makes several stops around Curitiba and typically comes every 30 minutes—although traffic can make it run a little late. Tickets cost R$50 per person (about $10 USD) and are valid for 24 hours. Once you buy your ticket, you receive a card that you scan each time you board.

Most of the buses are double-decker, and some have covered upper decks while others are completely open-air, which is perfect for taking photos and enjoying the views.

Stop #1: Jardim Botânico de Curitiba

Our first stop was at the Jardim Botânico de Curitiba, one of the city’s most famous landmarks and a must-see. The botanical garden was inaugurated on October 5, 1991 and was designed to resemble French-style gardens, featuring symmetrical flower beds, walking paths, and water fountains.

The park’s most iconic feature is the glass greenhouse, inspired by the Palace of Crystal in London. It houses a variety of tropical and subtropical plant species and is one of Curitiba’s most photographed attractions.

The garden covers over 178,000 square meters and includes:

• Native forests and themed gardens

• A Botanical Museum dedicated to plant conservation and research

• Two glass greenhouses:

  • A taller one with a second-story viewpoint

  • A long tube-shaped greenhouse that also houses a coffee shop and a school

The park also has a gift shop and bathrooms on-site, which makes it an easy and convenient stop. It was a little busy when we went, but we didn’t mind—it was beautiful, quick, and completely free to visit.

Stop #2: Museu Oscar Niemeyer (MON) – “Museu do Olho”

Our next stop was the Museu Oscar Niemeyer (MON), also known as the “Museu do Olho” (Museum of the Eye) thanks to its unique architecture. Designed by Oscar Niemeyer, one of Brazil’s most famous architects, the building was originally constructed in 1967 as the Edifício Presidente Humberto Castelo Branco, meant to house government offices.

In 2002, the building was transformed into a museum, with Niemeyer himself designing an additional structure—the striking “Eye”—to expand the exhibition space. The museum was officially inaugurated on November 22, 2002.

Today, the museum covers more than 35,000 square meters, making it one of the largest museums in Latin America. It specializes in contemporary art, architecture, and design, and hosts rotating exhibits year-round.

We didn’t pay to enter the museum this time, but admission is very affordable if you want to explore the exhibits. There are restrooms, a gift shop, and a café on-site, and you can walk around the outside of the museum for free. The architecture alone is worth the stop—even just seeing it from the bus is impressive.

We stayed for about 30 minutes and caught the next bus to continue the route.

Stop #3: Bosque Zaninelli & Universidade Livre do Meio Ambiente (UNILIVRE)

Our next stop was Bosque Zaninelli, a peaceful park named after Vitor Zaninelli, an Italian immigrant who played an important role in Curitiba’s development. The park was inaugurated in 1992 and is home to the Universidade Livre do Meio Ambiente (UNILIVRE), a unique institution dedicated to environmental education and sustainability.

The main UNILIVRE building is an architectural highlight—a striking wooden structure designed to blend seamlessly into the surrounding forest. It features an open-air amphitheater made of wood and a design that feels both natural and modern.

From the entrance, there’s a short hike through the woods to a small lake, where you’ll find the main wooden structure. You can climb it via a winding ramp that spirals upward, giving you a lovely elevated view of the surrounding forest and water.

This stop was quieter and less crowded than the others, making it a peaceful spot to take a break and enjoy nature before hopping back on the bus.

Stop #4: Parque Tanguá

Next up was Parque Tanguá, one of Curitiba’s most famous landmarks and one of the highlights of the hop-on/hop-off route. The park was inaugurated in 1996 on the site of a former rock quarry and has since become a popular destination for both locals and visitors.

The park is known for its stunning waterfalls, serene lakes, and a tunnel carved into the rock, making it one of the most scenic spots in the city. It’s a large park with multiple trails leading down to the waterfall area. There are two options to reach it:

• A steep, quicker hike

• A gradual, longer hike

Since we were short on time and starving, we decided to stay at the upper part of the waterfall instead of hiking all the way down. From there, you still get incredible views of the cliffs, water, and surrounding greenery.

Before reaching the waterfall overlook, there’s a Pegasus statue and a two-story structure you can climb for an even better vantage point of the park and surrounding area. It’s a gorgeous, peaceful spot that would definitely be worth a longer visit if you have more time.

Stop #5: Família Madalosso

Our last big stop of the day was at Restaurante Família Madalosso, one of Curitiba’s most iconic dining spots and an experience in itself. Founded in 1963 by Luigi Madalosso, an Italian descendant, this restaurant started as a small family-run eatery and has since grown into one of the largest restaurants in Latin America. It’s so famous that it even made it into the Guinness Book of World Records for serving the most people in a single day.

My boyfriend had told me about this place, so we decided to hop off the bus in an area filled with shopping and restaurants to finally give it a try.

The dining experience is fast-paced and rodízio-style—basically, an all-you-can-eat Italian feast. You sit down, and servers immediately start bringing out shared dishes while several others circulate with trays of additional options. The endless flow of pastas, meats, polenta, and vegetable-based sides is incredible… and, yes, we definitely overate a bit.

When it was time to pay, things slowed down—getting the bill took longer than expected. We eventually settled up and rushed back to the bus stop, making it there with just a few minutes to spare before the next bus. Unfortunately, by this point, the buses were running late; instead of waiting just a couple of minutes, we ended up waiting about 15 minutes before finally getting back on and heading toward our next stop.

Final Stop: Bosque Peões e Prendas

We saved the best for last! Our final stop of the day—and honestly, one of the highlights of the entire trip—was Bosque Peões e Prendas. This park is home to many capybaras, and visiting was something I’d been looking forward to since we first planned this trip.

After about 10 minutes of walking, I spotted my first capybara! He was calm and didn’t seem bothered by people at all. I worked up a little courage, slowly approached, and… I GOT TO PET HIM. 🥹 My number one goal in Brazil—check!

Even though it started raining while we were there, nothing could dampen my excitement. On the walk back, we spotted a few more capybaras lounging around the park, which made the stop even more special.

Afterward, we headed back to the bus stop to finish the day, but of course, the bus was running about 20 minutes late. Eventually, we made it back to Rua 24 Horas and returned to our room, exhausted but so, so happy.

Dinner with Family at Pizzaria Baggio (March 13 Evening)

After a full day exploring Curitiba, we got ready and took an Uber to meet my boyfriend’s paternal family at Pizzaria Baggio. The pizza was really good, but the standout was something new to me—focaccia pizza. Essentially, it’s a stuffed pizza with a focaccia-style crust, and it was delicious.

The evening was lovely, even if I stayed mostly quiet since I’m an English speaker with limited Portuguese. My boyfriend caught up with family members he hadn’t seen in five years, which made the night extra special. His uncle and grandmother gave us a ride back to the hotel, and we went to bed completely exhausted but happy.

March 14: Shopping, Scents, and Family Time

Breakfast at Confeitaria Holandesa

We started the day with breakfast at Confeitaria Holandesa, a cozy spot with a nice selection of pastries and sweets. I had a chicken-stuffed pastry and a hot chocolate, and we also indulged in mini cakes for dessert—because, vacation. Everything was tasty, and the service was decent. It was a quick and easy breakfast before starting the day’s adventures.

Luxury Shopping at Pátio Batel

From there, we walked about a mile to Shopping Pátio Batel, a large indoor luxury mall with modern, sleek architecture. This place has all the high-end brands you can imagine—Louis Vuitton, Max Mara, PatBo, Versace, and more—so even window shopping was fun.

I had my heart set on finding a Brazilian perfume, and my boyfriend suggested we check out O Boticário Lab - Flagship. It turned out to be perfect. The store had a scientific, steampunk aesthetic that made the shopping experience really unique. A salesperson helped us sample over 15 different scents before I eventually settled on one of the first perfumes I’d tried—it always happens that way, right?

We wandered around the other floors of the mall, stopped into a bookstore, and picked out a book for his niece back in the States before grabbing an Uber to our next destination.

Exploring Mercado Municipal

Next, we headed to the Mercado Municipal, a bustling indoor market filled with stalls offering fresh produce, meats, fish, cheeses, and unique specialty products.

Some highlights:

• I made a stop at Vô Milano Cachaçaria and picked up grape cachaça and cinnamon cachaça. The grape version is especially cool—it has actual grapes inside the bottle and a wonderfully sweet, smooth flavor.

• We grabbed a few fresh fruits, and my boyfriend found a beer glass for his growing collection.

• For lunch, we ate at Restaurante Anarco Mercado Municipal and ordered a two-person meal that included steak, pasta, and salad. It was delicious and paired perfectly with my caipirinha—because when in Brazil, you drink caipirinhas.

After exploring the market, we took another Uber back to the hotel to shower, recharge, and get ready for the evening.

Evening with Family

That night, we met up with more of my boyfriend’s family—cousins, aunts, uncles, and another grandmother—for a big family gathering. Everyone was incredibly warm and welcoming, though I could only really chat with three family members who spoke English. Luckily, his English-speaking cousins and aunt made sure I was included, and we had great conversations.

One of his cousins also shared some travel suggestions for the next few days, which was super helpful as we planned the rest of our trip. We stayed until about 9 PM, then headed back to the hotel to pack and prepare for the next day’s adventures.

March 15: Hitting the Road to Florianópolis

Picking Up the Rental Car

We checked out of the hotel around 9 AM and grabbed an Uber to the airport to pick up our rental car from Localiza. Pro tip: if you rent here, skip the counter inside the airport—they’ll just radio the shuttle to take you to the rental location across the airport anyway. Just have your Uber drop you off at the rental facility directly to save time.

We rented a car for three days at a total cost of about $88 USD, which seemed like a great deal… until we started driving.

The Volkswagen Polo Disaster 🚗🙃

We drove off the lot and immediately noticed a strange vibration in the car. We returned to swap it out for another car—same model, different vehicle—and loaded up our bags again.

About an hour into the drive, we started feeling the same vibration… only worse. Eventually, the brakes started making a horrible squeaking noise 🙄🙄. At this point, I would not recommend renting a Volkswagen Polo in Brazil.

That said, the service at Localiza was excellent, so at least there’s that.

Quick Stop: Decathlon in Joinville

Along the route, we stopped at Decathlon in Joinville—one of my favorite activewear stores. If you love finding high-quality gear at great prices, this place is a goldmine. I picked up a few items, and we continued our drive south toward Balneário Camboriú.

Lunch with a View: Rooftop Restaurant in Balneário Camboriú

Before reaching Florianópolis, we decided to take a detour and stop in Balneário Camboriú to check out a rooftop restaurant my boyfriend had heard about.

Finding it wasn’t easy—we had to reroute three different times because locating the valet parking was tricky. The restaurant was inside a residential high-rise and only offered valet parking, which cost R$50 (about $10 USD).

The vibe was upscale, and after checking in, a host led us up a service elevator to the restaurant. The setting was beautiful, with two sides of panoramic views:

• One side overlooked the city skyline and towering high-rise buildings.

• The other side overlooked the beach and the Atlantic Ocean.

We were seated on the beach side and loved watching paragliders floating along the coast while we ate. They did say you could switch sides if a table opened up, but we were more than happy where we were.

We ordered fresh fish entrées—because when you’re on the Atlantic coast, you have to eat seafood—and the food did not disappoint. The entire experience felt like a luxury detour, though definitely on the pricier side for Brazil at about $100 USD for the two of us.

Arrival in Florianópolis

After lunch in Balneário Camboriú, we continued the drive south to Florianópolis—a journey that took about six hours total from Curitiba, including our stops along the way.

We went straight to our Airbnb, the Paradise Bangalô, tucked away in a peaceful part of the island not far from Praia do Moçambique. The location was quiet and relaxing, perfect for unwinding after a long day of driving.

The bungalow itself wasn’t fancy, but it had everything we needed:

• A cozy outdoor sitting area

• Beach chairs and a cooler to take to the sand

• A comfortable setup for a few days by the coast

And then… there was the “suicide shower.” If you’ve never experienced one, it’s basically a showerhead connected to exposed electrical wires to heat the water. Sounds terrifying, right? Luckily, everything went fine—I didn’t get electrocuted, so I’m calling it a win. 😅

Evening in Florianópolis

After settling into the bungalow, we headed out to watch the sunset and then made our way to the Moçambique Beach access point to check out the area. From there, we stopped at Direto do Campo – Rio Vermelho, a small local grocery store, to pick up a few necessities.

The market was simple but well-stocked with all the basics and a large produce section, though the selection of brands was somewhat limited compared to bigger supermarkets.

Afterward, we stopped by Padaria Zilda, a popular local bakery, to grab baked goods for dinner. The bakery was large, busy, and full of both sweet and savory options. We picked out a few items, brought them back to the bungalow, and I got to try some new-to-me Brazilian pastries while we relaxed and settled in for the night.

March 16: Exploring Barra da Lagoa & Beyond: Hikes, Hidden Restaurants, and Coastal Vibes

We woke up early and headed south to Barra da Lagoa for a morning hike. We randomly came across a parking lot that charged R$30 and only accepted cash or Pix—so be prepared, because there’s no ATM in this area. Definitely bring some cash ahead of time to avoid issues.

We found the Trilha das Piscinas Naturais trail easily since it’s well-marked with signs. The same trail also leads to a beautiful beach, so you get the best of both worlds—forest and ocean views.

The trail ends at Rampa de Pedra da Ponta, a stunning spot with:

• Massive boulders overlooking the ocean

• A natural swimming area where people relax and cool off

• Plenty of locals and visitors hanging out with chairs, coolers, and snacks

The view from the top is incredible—crystal-clear water, lush greenery, and endless coastline. The hike itself is relatively short, but there are a few inclines, declines, and stair sections that give you a little workout without being too intense.

It was the perfect balance of scenic views, adventure, and relaxation, and we loved starting the day here.

Lunch Adventure: Boat Ride to Restaurante Cabral Parador 19

We finished the hike around 10 AM, and since it was too early for lunch, we stopped at a small café called Quiosque Silva for some refreshments and a quick break. The real reason, though? My boyfriend needed to set up his Pix account so we could actually pay for parking next time. 😅

Afterward, we headed to Trapiche do Terminal Lacustre based on a recommendation from my boyfriend’s cousin. From here, we needed to take a boat to reach the restaurant. The round-trip boat ride cost R$30 per person and, just like the parking earlier, it was cash, Brazilian debit, or Pix only—and there’s no ATM here, so plan ahead.

We waited about five minutes for the boat to fill up and then cruised across the lagoon to Restaurante Cabral Parador 19. The ride itself was short but beautiful, with great views of the water and surrounding greenery.

At the restaurant, we ordered the house special plate, which came loaded with:

• Fresh fish

• Shrimp prepared two ways

• Grilled vegetables

• Generous side portions

The food was excellent, and the portions were huge—so big that even with two of us, we couldn’t finish everything. The atmosphere was relaxed and breezy, with some tables offering beach and water views while others were indoors.

After lunch, we found our way back to the return boat by showing our tickets to a few people, who kindly pointed us in the right direction. From there, we crossed back over the lagoon and returned to the car, full and happy.

Evening at Praia dos Ingleses

After lunch, we headed back to the bungalow to relax for a little while before setting out again, this time to Praia dos Ingleses.

This beach is a bit unique because you can’t park directly by the sand—you have to park in the city and then walk toward the beach. Once you get there, though, you’ll find a busy and lively scene with:

• Plenty of chair and umbrella rentals

• Multiple food and drink vendors

• Families, groups of friends, and tourists spread out across the shoreline

While it was beautiful, it just wasn’t really my vibe—a little too crowded and commercial for my taste. We wandered around the beach and nearby town for a bit to take it all in, then decided to head back to the bungalow for a quieter evening and some relaxation and showers.

Night Out at Skullashu Beer Tap

After cleaning up from our beach walk, we headed out to Skullashu Beer Tap – Pub Chopp Artesanal for some pub food, cocktails, and live music. My boyfriend was excited to try a few of their local craft beers, while I went for a flavored margarita—and it did not disappoint.

We ordered a few small plates to share, including:

• Shredded beef shoulder

• A mozzarella, tomato, and basil appetizer

• Shiitake pastels (crispy little Brazilian pastries stuffed with mushrooms)

Everything was really good for bar food—simple, tasty, and perfect to snack on while sipping drinks.

The bar itself had a fun, laid-back vibe, with both covered patio seating and outdoor uncovered tables. To top it off, there was a guy performing live music, which made the evening even better.

After a relaxed dinner and a few drinks, we headed back to the bungalow and called it a night, ready for more Florianópolis adventures the next day.

March 17: From Mystery Boxes to Glass Houses: A Scenic Road Trip to Paranaguá

We woke up the next morning, checked out of the bungalow, and started driving toward our next night’s stay. Along the way, we stopped at the Porto Bella Outlet Mall to stretch our legs and do a little shopping.

I found a store I liked and picked up a few items, but the highlight of the stop was a mystery box vending machine I spotted. For R$40 (about $8 USD), I couldn’t resist trying it out. My box ended up containing a belt purse and a pair of sunglasses. Nothing fancy, but honestly, it was fun to take a chance and see what I’d get.

Traffic Jams & a Quick Pit Stop

After leaving the outlet mall, we continued on our way but ran into standstill traffic just before Balneário Camboriú. We sat there for about 30–40 minutes, most likely due to accidents up ahead.

We eventually stopped at Graal Grande Parada Norte, which is a combination gas station, bus station, and buffet-style restaurant. The setup is a little different: when you walk in, you grab an electronic number disk and take whatever food or drinks you want. Every time you pick something, they scan it onto the disk, and you pay at the end. Important tip: don’t lose your disk—you need it to leave, even if you’re splitting the bill with someone else.

The buffet itself wasn’t great—it was pricey and not very tasty, so I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re starving. That said, they did have pastries, soda, water, coffee, and other snacks if you just need something quick for the road.

Arriving at the “Aquarium House”

From there, we continued driving until we reached our Airbnb in Paranaguá, which we nicknamed the “aquarium house.” It’s entirely made of glass and sits next to a small pond in a remote area accessed by a dirt road.

The house was unique and beautiful, surrounded by nature, which meant we got to enjoy all the sounds of the outdoors while staying cozy inside. It was thoughtfully decorated and made for a fun, memorable experience.

Of course, it wouldn’t be Brazil without a little wildlife—we did have an encounter with a spider and a cockroach, but nothing major. Overall, we really loved the stay, and the bed was the most comfortable we’d had so far on the trip.

Dinner at Simples Gastrobar Praia de Leste

Since there weren’t many food options near the Airbnb, we drove about 15 minutes toward the coast and had dinner at Simples Gastrobar Praia de Leste. The restaurant specializes in African-infused Brazilian cuisine, and it ended up being one of our best meals of the trip.

We ordered:

• Ceviche → Bright, fresh, and delicious.

• Cambia Portuguesa → A smoked fish dish with a strong, salty flavor. I didn’t mind it, but my boyfriend wasn’t a fan.

• Garlic bread → Simple but perfect.

• A main dish served with lentils and rice, which tied everything together beautifully.

The service was excellent, and the food was flavorful and unique—definitely worth the drive. After dinner, we headed back to the aquarium house to relax and enjoy the peaceful surroundings before calling it a night.

March 18: A Rainy Travel Day to São Paulo

This was one of our less eventful days. We woke up and headed to my boyfriend’s aunt’s house to drop off most of his belongings before returning our rental car and catching our flight.

Returning the car went smoothly, and we boarded what was supposed to be a 40-minute flight to São Paulo… except it turned into a 90-minute flight thanks to a rainstorm that temporarily shut down São Paulo/Congonhas Airport. We spent a while circling in the sky, but luckily, we were able to land safely once the airport reopened.

One thing I will say: the efficiency at Congonhas Airport is impressive. We retrieved our bags almost immediately and quickly grabbed an Uber to our Airbnb near Paulista Avenue.

Our São Paulo Airbnb

The Airbnb was in a safe, secure location, and the building had:

• Three gated entry points

• A night guard

• Remote personnel monitoring for added security

The apartment itself was basic but functional, with everything we needed for a short stay. The bed was just okay, and yes—we had another “suicide shower” (electric showerhead heater) 😅. But overall, it was comfortable, well-stocked, and in a great central location.

Dinner at Adriata Restaurante

After getting settled, we walked about 15 minutes in light rain to Adriata Restaurante for dinner—and it ended up being a great choice.

We ordered:

• Picanha (Brazilian-style beef, perfectly cooked)

• Beef stroganoff

• Loads of sides—honestly, way more food than we could finish!

The service was excellent, the portions were generous, and the food hit the spot after a long day of travel. By the time we finished eating, the rain had stopped, making for a pleasant walk back to the Airbnb.

On the way, we stopped at an OXO convenience store to grab some caffeine for the morning before heading in for the night.

March 19: São Paulo in a Day: Landmarks, Liberdade Eats & a Magical Surprise

Morning MRI at A Mais

We started the day early with an 8:20 AM appointment at A Mais Diagnóstico for an MRI of my cervical and lumbar spine—something I’ve been meaning to get done after 12 years of chronic back pain.

One of the huge perks of getting medical care in Brazil is how accessible and efficient it is compared to the U.S. If I’d wanted the same thing at home, I’d have had to jump through endless insurance hoops and wait weeks for an appointment. Here? I booked online, got a 15% discount, and was able to get a next-day appointment.

• Cost: $466 USD total

• Process: Arrived early, and by 8:25 AM, I was already in the MRI machine.

• Duration: About 15–20 minutes total.

By 9 AM, we were done and on our way to breakfast.

Breakfast at Raful Cozinha Árabe – Brigadeiro

We grabbed an Uber to Raful Cozinha Árabe – Brigadeiro, where we had a quick Middle Eastern-inspired breakfast. I tried a few meat and cheese pastries and grabbed some water—simple, fresh, and perfect to keep us fueled for the day.

Exploring Ibirapuera Park

Next, we headed to Ibirapuera Park, São Paulo’s largest and most famous green space. It’s a beautiful area with wide walking/running paths, bike lanes, and a lively atmosphere.

At the South entrance, they have bike rentals available, including two-person side-by-side bikes, which looked like a lot of fun for couples or families. There were also plenty of food and drink vendors scattered around the walking and biking paths, giving the park a vibrant, community feel.

Pavilhão Japonês (Japanese Pavilion)

We made our way northwest through the park to the Pavilhão Japonês, which was inaugurated in 1954 as a gift from the Japanese government and community to São Paulo in celebration of the city’s 400th anniversary.

The pavilion has a beautiful open structure, a small art gallery, and peaceful surroundings with science-inspired sculptures nearby. There’s also a lake area with ducks and swans, making it one of the most tranquil spots in the park.

Escola Municipal de Astrofísica

Right next to the pavilion is a circular, spaceship-like building called the Escola Municipal de Astrofísica. It was unfortunately closed, so we could only admire it from the outside—but its unique architecture makes it worth passing by.

Monumento às Bandeiras

From there, we headed north toward the Monumento às Bandeiras, located just outside the park across a busy street. Since crossing wasn’t convenient, we admired it from afar.

This massive monument was designed by Brazilian sculptor Victor Brecheret to honor the Bandeirantes, the 17th-century Portuguese explorers who played a key role in expanding Brazil’s territory.

Auditório Ibirapuera – Oscar Niemeyer

Heading southeast, we stopped at the Auditório Ibirapuera, designed by the iconic Oscar Niemeyer. The building was planned in the 1950s as part of the park’s original master plan but wasn’t completed until 2005.

Unfortunately, the auditorium was closed (and looked like it had been for a while), but the modern design is stunning, and it’s worth stopping to see from the outside.

Obelisco e Monumento Mausoléu ao Soldado Constitucionalista de 32

Our last stop in the park area was the Obelisco e Monumento Mausoléu ao Soldado Constitucionalista de 32, located across a busy road from the park.

This large column monument honors the fighters of the 1932 Constitutionalist Revolution and stands as one of São Paulo’s most significant landmarks.

A Magical Surprise at the Oca ✨

Our final stop in Ibirapuera Park turned out to be an unexpected highlight: the Oca. Designed by the legendary Oscar Niemeyer in 1951 as part of the park’s original master plan for São Paulo’s 400th anniversary in 1954, the building itself is striking. It’s white, domed, and dotted with cutouts, giving it a very futuristic, architectural vibe.

But as we approached, I spotted a giant sign that made me do a double take:
“Harry Potter: The Exhibition.”

Ummm… YESS!!! 🪄

My boyfriend—not quite as obsessed as I am—was a good sport and agreed to go in with me. Tickets were R$50 per person (about $10 USD). Once inside, we were given wristbands and set up personalized profiles with our name, Hogwarts house, wand, and Patronus.

The exhibition itself was very well done and included:

• Original props from the movies

• Interactive stations where you use your wristband to trigger effects

• Walk-through displays of the most iconic locations from the books and films

One small downside: each station only allows one try. So, if you mess up a spell or miss an activation, you don’t get a redo. Still, it was so much fun for any Potter fan.

At the end, there was a huge gift shop—honestly, overpriced but impressive. I was tempted, but I was already at my luggage weight limit, so I refrained (which I’m still proud of).

After this magical detour, we left the park and grabbed an Uber back to the hotel to rest for the night.

Exploring Liberdade District

After finishing up at Ibirapuera Park, we regrouped at the hotel, dropped off any valuables, and grabbed an Uber to the Historic Centro, making our first stop at Liberdade District—one of São Paulo’s most culturally rich neighborhoods with a complicated history.

• 18th & 19th Century Origins → Liberdade was originally occupied by African slaves and freedmen and later became known as a site for public executions.

• Japanese Influence → In 1908, Japanese immigrants began settling here, and by the 1920s, Liberdade had developed a strong Japanese identity.

Today, the neighborhood is famous for its Japanese culture, shops, and food. You’ll know you’ve arrived when you see the iconic Tori gate and the red lanterns lining the streets.

Lunch at Sushi Yassuh Liberdade

While in Liberdade, we stopped at Sushi Yassuh Liberdade for lunch. The restaurant itself was simple and unpretentious, but the quality of the fish was exceptional—fresh, flavorful, and beautifully prepared.

We ordered the special sushi + sashimi + fish combo, which was delicious and well worth it if you’re a sushi lover. The service was excellent, too.

That said, this spot is a little pricey compared to other sushi restaurants in São Paulo—but given the quality, it felt justified.

Igreja Santa Cruz das Almas dos Enforcados

After lunch, we walked to the Igreja Santa Cruz das Almas dos Enforcados (“Church of the Holy Cross of the Souls of the Hanged”), a medium-sized historic church with a fascinating backstory:

• 18th Century Origins → The site was originally a public execution ground during Brazil’s colonial period.

• 1821 Tragedy → Francisco José das Chagas (“Chaguinhas”), a soldier who led a military rebellion, was sentenced to death here. His execution attempt failed twice, which many saw as divine intervention, but he was ultimately strangled to death.

• Local Devotion & Church Construction → After his death, Chaguinhas was venerated as a martyr, and local devotion grew. A chapel was built in 1887 at the execution site, and the current church was constructed in 1934.

Inside, the church has an impressive ceiling mural and a solemn, contemplative atmosphere that stands in stark contrast to the bustling streets outside.

Sé Metropolitan Cathedral

Our next stop was the Sé Metropolitan Cathedral (Catedral da Sé), one of São Paulo’s most famous landmarks and an architectural masterpiece. A church has stood on these grounds since 1591, but the current neo-Gothic structure was inaugurated in 1954 as part of São Paulo’s 400-year anniversary celebrations.

The cathedral itself is stunning—with intricate stained-glass windows, detailed mosaics, massive vaulted ceilings, and incredible architectural craftsmanship. It’s truly a work of art inside and out.

That said, the area around the cathedral is… less impressive and can be a bit sketchy. This is one of those spots where extra caution is warranted:

• Stay vigilant and avoid flashing valuables.

• I carried a money belt under my clothing with my ID and two credit cards.

• We kept our passports, extra cards, and main phones locked in a portable safe back at the hotel.

• I brought along an old iPhone 6 “just in case,” and my boyfriend used his older spare phone for Uber, photos, and navigation.

• I left my purse at the hotel anytime we visited sketchier areas.

Even though there was a visible police and military presence nearby, it doesn’t completely prevent theft—we actually saw one man reporting a robbery to the police outside.

Thankfully, nothing happened to us, but my boyfriend was definitely on high alert and protective, wanting to make sure nothing bad happened to me while we were in his country.

Inside, though, the cathedral was peaceful, beautiful, and worth the visit—just take precautions when walking around the surrounding area

Igreja de Santo Antônio & Wrapping Up Historic Centro

After visiting Sé Cathedral, we wandered toward Rua São Bento, a busy street lined with shops and local businesses. My boyfriend was starting to feel a little stressed by the crowds and keeping an eye on safety, so we decided to make our way toward a safer spot to grab an Uber back to the hotel.

On the way, we stumbled upon the Igreja de Santo Antônio, a charming little hidden gem. Originally built in 1592, this church is considered the oldest standing church in São Paulo. Although it has been rebuilt and renovated over the years, it still retains colonial-era details that give it a unique sense of history. The interior is tiny but beautiful, decorated with gold accents and classic Brazilian charm.

After a quick visit, we walked a bit further and called an Uber back to the hotel to regroup.

Shopping Cidade São Paulo & the Perfect Cookie 🍪

Back at the hotel, we grabbed our valuables and my purse again and decided to walk over to Shopping Cidade São Paulo. This modern indoor shopping mall is full of Brazilian stores and felt like a safe, close place to unwind after a long day of exploring.

While there, we couldn’t resist grabbing a snack from Mr. Cheney Cookies, which are very similar to Crumbl Cookies in the U.S.—thick, soft, and absolutely decadent. I was in cookie heaven… and apparently, it showed, because my boyfriend kept sneakily taking photos and videos of me enjoying it. Even though I look ridiculous in them, they perfectly capture just how happy that cookie made me.

Outback Happy Hour & Calling It a Night 🥂

After wandering around Shopping Cidade São Paulo a bit longer, we decided to stop at Outback Steakhouse—mostly out of curiosity. I’ve heard that Outbacks in Brazil are supposed to be nicer than the U.S. versions, so naturally, I had to investigate.

We grabbed seats at the bar and ordered a couple of cocktails. And yes… it’s definitely a little newer and slightly nicer than the ones back home, but I wouldn’t call it “elevated.”

We did get lucky, though—we happened to land right during happy hour and scored some really cheap drinks. After that, we called an Uber back to the hotel and crashed for the night after a long, busy, and very full day exploring São Paulo.

March 20: From Caramelo Cinnamon Rolls to Cachaça: A Cozy Day Near Guarulhos

Breakfast at Lanchonete Madadayo

We had a slow, leisurely start to the day and decided to grab breakfast at Lanchonete Madadayo. The place had a classic diner vibe with both table and counter service, which made it cozy and casual.

I ordered the Americano sandwich—fresh bread, melted cheese, ham, and egg—along with an açaí juice. The food was simple but delicious and exactly what we needed to start the day.

Farmers Market & Sweet Stop at Bakebun Bakery

After breakfast, we stumbled upon a local farmers market and couldn’t resist stopping. We grabbed a few different varieties of bananas that you just can’t find in the U.S., which felt like a fun little foodie moment.

From there, we headed to Bakebun Bakery Bela Vista, and oh. my. goodness… I discovered what might be my dream pastry: a caramelo cinnamon roll topped with cream cheese frosting and drizzled with caramel. It was soft, sweet, gooey perfection—definitely one of my favorite food finds of the trip.

Heading Toward Guarulhos

After indulging in our sweets, we headed back to the room, grabbed our bags, and hopped an Uber to Hampton by Hilton Guarulhos Airport, where we’d be staying the night.

We arrived around 10:30 AM and couldn’t check in that early, but they let us drop off our bags, which was convenient.

Exploring Parque Shopping Maia & Lunch at Graça Di Napolli

There isn’t a ton to do around this part of town, so the hotel staff recommended checking out a few malls. We decided on Parque Shopping Maia, which they described as the less bougie option—and it ended up being a solid choice.

We browsed around, picked up a couple of small items, and eventually stopped for lunch at Graça Di Napolli Pizzaria e Trattoria. They offer smaller lunch portions, which was perfect since we weren’t super hungry.

The food was really good, the service was excellent, and my boyfriend was extra excited because they had a rare cachaça on the menu—the same one he’d ordered when we first arrived in Brazil. He’d had it shipped to his aunt’s house so he could bring it back home since you can’t just find it in stores.

Back at the Hotel & Dinner at the Buffet

After lunch at Graça Di Napolli, we grabbed an Uber back to the hotel to enjoy a leisurely afternoon and rest before our evening flight the next day.

At first glance, the Hampton by Hilton Guarulhos Airport seemed really nice, but once we settled into the room… not so much:

• There was a strong old cigarette smell that we thought we’d get used to—but didn’t.

• We ended up cranking the A/C just to mask it a bit.

• The bed was on wheels and kept sliding away from the wall (not ideal 🙃).

• The floor felt sticky, and overall, the room just seemed a little gross and dated.

By 7 PM, we headed down to the hotel restaurant, which offers a buffet-style dinner for R$80 per person. To our surprise, it was actually pretty solid and better than the per-kilo buffet we had at the bus stop earlier in the trip (and a little cheaper too!).

The buffet included:

• A wide variety of fresh fruits and salads

• Picanha and grilled chicken

• Pasta and other hot dishes

After dinner, we headed back to the room, put on a movie, and called it an early night so we could rest up for the next leg of our trip.

March 21: Saying Goodbye & Heading Home

We woke up early since today was my big travel day home. I had a free hotel shuttle reservation for 7:10 AM, so we wanted to make sure we had enough time to grab breakfast and get ready before the long journey ahead.

Breakfast at the Hotel

The free breakfast buffet opened at 5:00 AM, so we went downstairs just before 6:00 AM to grab something to eat. Unfortunately, this one wasn’t great:

• The eggs had little crunchy bits in them (possibly shell fragments 🤢).

• The bacon was overcooked and dry.

• The orange juice was sour.

Not exactly the send-off meal I was hoping for, but honestly, my nerves didn’t help my appetite either. I’m an anxious traveler, and the reality of leaving my boyfriend and facing 18+ hours of travel had my stomach in knots anyway.

Heading to the Airport

After breakfast, we went back upstairs to get ready and finish packing before catching the shuttle. True to schedule, the bus promptly left at 7:10 AM and dropped me off at the airport without any issues.

I checked in, dropped my bag, and then came the hard part—saying goodbye to my boyfriend. He was flying this day, too, but back to Curitiba for another 11 days before returning home.

With a mix of excitement, nerves, and a little sadness, I went through security and prepared to start the long journey home.

The Journey Home ✈️

My travel day went surprisingly smoothly—even though I had to connect through Atlanta, which is usually a complete shitshow. 😅

I breezed through Global Entry, which was amazing, though of course my bag was one of the last ones to come out. After grabbing it, the bag drop was quick and painless, but then came security…

The line was at least 150 people deep, and I had that moment of panic where you think you’re going to miss your flight. Luckily, it moved quickly, and I was through in about 30 minutes.

I headed to my gate, had about an hour to kill, and then boarded for the final leg of my journey. The flight itself was uneventful, and we landed just a few minutes late around 11:20 PM.

I grabbed my bag quickly, waited about 15 minutes for my Uber, and then… finally got home. Walking into my place and seeing my bed and my glorious pillows was the best feeling ever—though it was definitely bittersweet without my boyfriend, who stayed in Brazil for another 11 days to see family and work remotely.