Colombia November 2024

Day 1: Vegas → Fort Lauderdale → Barranquilla

We arrived at the airport around 8 PM for our 10:11 PM flight, expecting a smooth start. The airport experience was uneventful—until we reached the gate. Since this was a Spirit flight, chaos was practically guaranteed.

Boarding began and was going surprisingly well… until one passenger, denied an aisle seat in favor of a family with special needs, suddenly stormed up to the front after the door had already closed and demanded to get off the plane. Things escalated when she accused the flight attendant of insulting her, misinterpreting his comment about “not straining her eyes” as something offensive. Cue drama.

The crew had no choice but to reopen the door, escort her off, and restart the safety demonstration. 🙃 Eventually, we were back on track and took off without further incidents.

Day 2: A Long Layover and Arrival in Barranquilla

We landed in Fort Lauderdale at 5:55 AM, running on maybe an hour of sleep, only to face a 5.5-hour layover. Thankfully, the terminal was quiet during the early hours, and we found a spot to stretch out before the crowds rolled in. We grabbed some food, killed time, and eventually boarded our next flight.

The trip to Barranquilla was blissfully uneventful—I drifted in and out of consciousness until we touched down.

First Impressions of Barranquilla

Immigration was straightforward but slow, and when we finally made it through, the border agent casually warned us that our hotel was in a rougher area and suggested we avoid walking around. Not exactly comforting news, but since we were running on fumes, our plans already involved minimal movement.

Outside, we exchanged some pesos and discovered it was pouring rain. Ubers were available for about $7 USD, but we opted for a $10 taxi waiting out front to save time. After a 35-minute ride, we arrived at Hotel Génova Centro.

For $34 USD, it was… fine. The hotel had a small courtyard, a restaurant, and a pool that was more decorative than inviting. The room was clean and quiet, but the shower was a disaster. I had to remove the showerhead completely just to get any water out, leaving me questioning whether I had actually showered or just sponge-bathed.

By 7 PM, exhaustion won. I crashed hard and didn’t move until morning.

November 7 — Ciénaga’s Past, Minca’s Magic & Santa Marta Nights

I woke up at 5:30 AM and quietly waited for my friend to stir before we headed down to breakfast around 7:00 AM. The hotel served a surprisingly hearty spread: eggs with ham, rice and beans, fresh fruit, rolls, coffee, hot chocolate, and juice. Fueled and caffeinated, we met our driver in the lobby at 8:30 AM and set off toward Ciénaga.

Founded in 1529 by Spanish colonists, Ciénaga has deep roots in Colombia’s history. It played a crucial role in the region’s colonial economy but is perhaps most infamous for the Banana Massacre of 1928. During this tragic event, the Colombian army—acting under pressure from the United Fruit Company—opened fire on striking workers demanding better wages and conditions. While the exact number of deaths remains debated, it left a permanent mark on Colombian labor history and even inspired Gabriel García Márquez’s One Hundred Years of Solitude.

The drive itself was scenic, with stretches of coastline, colorful little towns, and plenty of glimpses into everyday Caribbean Colombian life.

Our driver warned us upfront that Ciénaga didn’t have much to see, but we decided to stop anyway since we were already passing through. The town square had some charming, historic architecture, but it became clear almost immediately that this wasn’t a tourist town. We definitely stood out—locals stared, a few tried to get our attention, and after a quick five-minute stroll, we decided to move on and head straight toward Minca.

Minca & Finca La Victoria

Our next destination was Finca La Victoria, one of Colombia’s oldest and most historic coffee plantations, tucked high in the lush Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta. Founded in 1892 by an English couple, Charles and Alice Bowden, the finca spans over 1,223 hectares, with 217 hectares dedicated to cultivating Arabica coffee.

One of the coolest aspects? They still use original machinery from the late 1800s, powered entirely by water from nearby mountain streams. It felt like stepping into a living museum—you could actually watch the process unfold much like it has for over a century. The air smelled like fresh coffee and damp rainforest, and the surrounding mountain views were incredible.

Our driver couldn’t make it up the steep driveway, so we hiked about 15 minutes uphill through the lush greenery. At the top, we were greeted by a charming little café serving sandwiches, cakes, locally brewed Nevada beer, and, of course, fresh coffee. The plantation tour cost 25,000 COP (about $6 USD) and was absolutely worth it.

The guide walked us through the entire process, showing how the original gravity-fed and water-powered systems are still used today to process the coffee. We even got to see a water-powered generator that’s been operating for decades—it felt like stepping back in time.

Unfortunately, my friend started feeling dizzy partway through and had to sit out the rest of the tour. By the end, she still wasn’t feeling great, so our guide kindly arranged for someone to drive us back down the hill to meet our driver—for a small extra fee, of course.

From there, we made our way to GHL Relax Costa Azul, a beachfront resort near Santa Marta. It was definitely a little bougie compared to our last stay, greeting us with fresh juice and bellhop service—a nice change of pace after a long day.

Of course, in true travel fashion, it wasn’t all perfect. When we got to our room, we discovered that the mini-fridge was leaking water and not cooling at all. Thankfully, maintenance arrived quickly and fixed the issue, and we were finally able to settle in and relax.

For dinner, we opted to dine poolside, enjoying a perfectly cooked sea bass topped with shrimp—hands down one of the better meals of the trip. I decided to try a corozo margarita (a local fruit-based twist), which was… fine, but definitely not my favorite.

Afterward, we grabbed a taxi to Santa Marta’s boardwalk for 40,000 COP (about a 30-minute ride). The vibe in Santa Marta was big-city chaotic—loud music, packed streets, flashing lights, and sensory overload everywhere. We wandered through a market and along the waterfront, but after a short while, we realized it just wasn’t our scene.

Maybe I’m getting old, but the noise, crowds, and congestion were a bit much. We decided to retreat back to the serenity of our beach resort. On the drive back, we were extra grateful to have a driver—Colombian traffic is intense, with aggressive driving and road rules that feel more like suggestions than laws.

Back at the hotel, we capped off the night with dessert, enjoying the peaceful ambiance after the chaos of Santa Marta. It was the perfect way to unwind—sweet treat, ocean breeze, and quiet surroundings. We headed up to our room afterward and spent some time researching the next day’s adventures before calling it a night.

November 8 – Exploring Colombia’s Caribbean Coast: Taganga, Playa Cristal & Bahía Concha

I woke up around 6:15 a.m. and relaxed until my friend stirred around 7:00 a.m. After a quick breakfast, featuring a buffet with an unexpectedly wide variety of foods, we set off for Taganga, a small fishing town just north of our hotel. Taganga is known for its lively mix of tourists, bars, restaurants, shops, and excursion companies, making it the perfect jumping-off point for exploring nearby beaches.

We didn’t have a solid plan but hoped to catch a boat to one of the “secret” beaches we’d read about. As soon as we stepped out of the taxi, a local boating excursion company approached us. After some quick discussion, we secured a private boat to two secluded beaches for 550,000 COP total—a solid deal compared to shared tours charging around 300,000 COP per person, including transportation. We loved the flexibility of having the boat to ourselves and the freedom to leave whenever we wanted.

The 40-minute ride brought us to Playa Cristal, where we unexpectedly had the entire beach to ourselves. The setting was exactly as promised—peaceful, quiet, and remote. The water was clear and inviting, but there was a fair amount of seaweed, and the bottom was quite rocky, so water shoes would’ve been ideal. A tiny hidden restaurant and bathroom were tucked behind the trees, though I personally wouldn’t trust eating there. There were also no chair or umbrella rentals, and with very little natural shade—plus plenty of crabs scurrying around—this felt more like an Instagram-worthy photo stop than a place to spend an entire afternoon.

After about an hour of soaking up the scenery, we decided to head to our next destination.

Bahía Concha – A Lively Change of Pace

After leaving Playa Cristal, we took a 15-minute boat ride to Bahía Concha, which had a noticeably livelier vibe but wasn’t overcrowded. The moment we stepped off the boat, we were greeted by vendors selling everything from drinks and snacks to chair rentals, massages, and fresh seafood.

We rented a chair for 10,000 COP and settled in, hoping to relax. While the setting was beautiful, the competing music blasting from different groups around the beach made it less peaceful than we’d hoped. On the upside, we had a few adorable stray dogs wander over to say hello—though the crabs and one particularly bold praying mantis were slightly less welcome guests.

A Change in Vibes

Honestly, my younger self probably would have embraced the chaos—grabbed a drink (or three), soaked up the energy, and had an absolute blast. But my current self, fresh off skin cancer removal surgery and with a much lower tolerance for loud music and constant sales pitches, just wasn’t feeling it.

After a quick dip in the water to cool off, we changed into dry clothes, thanked our guide for an awesome day, and headed back to town, ready for a quieter evening.

Lunch, Lounging, and a Little Downtime

For lunch, we stopped at Pachamama, a charming little spot with delicious food and a welcoming atmosphere. Since we were in a fishing village, I’d highly recommend the fish and seafood—fresh, flavorful, and perfectly prepared.

Afterward, we grabbed a taxi back to our hotel and spent a few relaxing hours by the pool. When the skies started to turn gray, we headed up to the room to shower and unwind. The cooler weather inspired us to throw on pajamas for dinner, leaning fully into a cozy, laid-back evening.

This trip may have been labeled a “relaxing vacation,” but it’s been pretty nonstop so far—today was the first time we finally allowed ourselves a little downtime.

November 9 —A Day of Highs, Lows & Perfect Pasta Plates

We started the day with breakfast before heading down to the hotel’s beach area, settling under an umbrella to soak up the coastal views. At first, it was perfectly peaceful—the sound of the waves, a light breeze, and hardly anyone around. But as the morning went on, more people arrived, and with them came competing music from every direction. By midday, we decided it was time to wrap up our little slice of relaxation and headed back to the room to pack up and prepare for checkout.

Once we were ready to leave, we requested an Uber, but the driver immediately called and demanded more money than the app had quoted. Not wanting to deal with the hassle, we asked the hotel to call a taxi instead. Best decision ever. We ended up with what was probably the best driver of the entire trip—kind, professional, and incredibly helpful. He loaded and unloaded our bags and even walked us inside the hotel when we arrived. The fare was 350,000 COP, and we happily tipped an extra 20,000 COP for his exceptional service.

Since our new hotel room wasn’t ready yet, we grabbed lunch at the hotel restaurant. Unfortunately, it ended up being one of my least favorite meals of the trip—a letdown, especially considering Barranquilla is working hard to brand itself as a gastronomic destination. Still, after an hour and 45 minutes on the road, we were too hungry to be picky.

By 3 PM, we were finally able to check in. A little later, we discovered that Decathlon—one of my favorite sporting goods stores—was nearby. The front desk advised against walking there, so we grabbed an Uber for 10,000 COP and headed to a bustling four-story mall. Unlike the dying malls back home in the U.S., this one was lively and packed. The first three levels were full of shops, while the fourth floor was entirely dedicated to restaurants.

We initially decided on Porthos Steakhouse, ordered drinks, and then proceeded to wait... and wait... and wait. After 25 minutes with no food order taken—while watching multiple tables that arrived after us get served—I hit my breaking point. Hangry and frustrated, we paid for our sodas and left.

Thankfully, Plan B turned out to be a win. We headed to Il Forno, a quieter spot away from the loud music blaring from most restaurants. I ordered a pasta dish served on top of a pizza crust—definitely a unique presentation, though the flavor wasn’t my favorite. That said, the service was phenomenal, easily the best we’d experienced so far, which was a refreshing change after the Porthos fiasco.

After dinner, we made our way to the taxi area, grabbed a ride back to the hotel, and called it a night—another busy, unpredictable, but memorable day in Colombia.

November 10: Wildlife, Waterfronts, and One Perfect Dinner

We started the day with our complimentary hotel breakfast—nothing fancy, but plenty of options to choose from. By 9:00 AM, we grabbed a taxi to the Barranquilla Zoo, where entry was 28,000 COP.

The zoo is on the smaller side, but it’s clean, well-maintained, and thoughtfully laid out, with plenty of shaded walkways that made exploring comfortable. There was a good variety of animals, and while some enclosures felt a bit small, the animals seemed healthy and well-cared for.

We wrapped up our visit in about an hour, which was perfect for our schedule. Visiting something animal-related has become a little tradition on our international trips, so this stop was an easy—and enjoyable—way to keep that going. 🐒🦜

Next, we grabbed a taxi to the Malecón Puerta de Oro, a lively waterfront area known for its scenic views and vibrant atmosphere. The highlight was the food hall, which featured an impressive variety of cuisine—everything from sushi and BBQ to dumplings, desserts, Italian, and pizza.

We decided to mix it up and ordered from three different spots:

• A bun and dumpling sampler

• Ceviche

• Sushi and fish croquettes

The ceviche was the standout—fresh, flavorful, and perfectly seasoned. The rest, however, was a bit underwhelming, with the buns and dumplings being the most disappointing of the bunch. Still, the energy of the space and the variety of options made it a fun stop to experience.

After finishing our meal, we stepped outside to snap a few photos at the Malecón before hopping into another taxi bound for Galería 72, a lively and bustling tourist market. The setup felt like a flea market, with rows of booths selling similar merchandise at varying prices, so haggling was definitely key to scoring the best deals.

The market wasn’t air-conditioned, but there were enough fans to make it bearable despite the heat. After picking up our souvenirs, we headed back to the hotel and made our way up to the rooftop pool to relax and unwind. Unfortunately, the weather had other plans—rain rolled in, cutting our pool time short.

We decided to retreat to the rooftop bar instead, where we enjoyed our complimentary drinks while watching the rain come down. Back in the room, I planned to rest for just a few minutes… but it quickly turned into an hour-long accidental nap. Oops!

Around 5 PM, we grabbed a taxi to Storia D’Amore, a charming and romantic restaurant featuring a whimsical heart-shaped archway, love locks at the entrance, and a cozy, intimate vibe inside. This ended up being our best meal of the entire trip—hands down.

We went all out and ordered beef carpaccio, meatballs, salmon, lasagna, gelato, and chocolate cake. Every single dish was flavorful and beautifully presented. The service was impeccable, attentive without being intrusive, and the overall experience felt special from start to finish.

The restaurant is also popular for celebrations—they offer optional romantic décor packages with rose petals and candles for anniversaries, or light-up balloons for birthdays, which added to the fun, lively atmosphere.

Our total came to about 315,000 COP (roughly $75 USD)—a fantastic value for such a memorable, upscale dining experience. Afterward, we hopped in a taxi back to the hotel, winding down and relaxing before our flights the next day.

November 11 – Heading Home

We enjoyed one last hotel breakfast and took the morning slow before checking out. Our Uber ride to the airport took about 40 minutes, and from there, we began our long journey home. The flights were mostly uneventful, aside from a medical emergency on board. Thankfully, the passenger was able to walk off with EMTs once we landed.

After a long day of travel, I was so happy to be home—even happier to see my boyfriend and finally crawl into my own bed.

Travel Tips for Visiting Northern Colombia

1. Currency & Exchange Rates

• 1 USD ≈ 4,000 COP (as of early September 2025) Nomads.com+3Wise+3Dólar Colombia+3Barranquilla or Bust!+13Wise+13Revolut+13.

• A taxi for 1 km costs around **10,000 COP ($2.50 USD)** Hikers Bay - Best time to travel+2Nomads.com+2.

• Understanding this conversion helps set realistic expectations when shopping or paying fares.

2. Getting Around — Cheap and Common

• Taxis are ubiquitous and affordable — even short rides rarely exceed 10,000 COP (~$2.50 USD) Barranquilla or Bust!+15Hikers Bay - Best time to travel+15Ria Money Transfer+15.

• Pre-arranged taxis through hotels or apps can avoid unexpected fare hikes or haggling.

• Tips: Not mandatory, but appreciated — rounding up or adding 5–10% is common, especially for great service Welcome Pickups.

3. Cash is Essential

• Many vendors (taxis, markets, small shops) are cash-only, even near tourist areas.

• Always keep local notes in smaller denominations as change can be tricky.

4. Language

• English isn’t widespread — even in restaurants and hotels.

• Knowing basic Spanish phrases or using translation apps can go a long way.

5. Safety & Transportation

• Stick to taxis or rideshares — walking in unfamiliar areas isn’t advised.

• Barranquilla's liveable fare structure and your own experiences confirm taxis are both safe and affordable.

6. Food Expectations

• The culinary scene is hit or miss.

  • Some meals (like at Storia D’Amore) are memorable.

  • Others may disappoint — especially in touristy food halls.

• Do your research for local favorites before heading out.

7. Beaches & Climate

• Beaches are enjoyable but not always picture-perfect.

• Visit in the morning or evening to avoid crowds and midday humidity.

• When rain comes, make the most of hotel amenities or indoor activities.

8. Overall Costs

• Colombia, even the “bougie” experiences, offers excellent value — from private boat tours to fine dining.

• Expect significantly lower costs than similar experiences in the U.S. or Europe.

9. Weather

• Generally tropical and humid — warm in the afternoon, cooler in the early morning and evening.

• The rain often falls during downtime, making it easy to stay flexible with plans.

10. Trip Summary

Colombia won't blow you away with pristine beaches or cosmopolitan polish, but it's a budget-friendly adventure with friendly people, flavorful meals, and a few standout moments — especially if you're relaxed and open to spontaneity.

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