Introduction – Exploring Egypt in December 2023

Egypt has always been one of those destinations that feels almost mythical—home to ancient wonders, breathtaking temples, and a rich culture that stretches back thousands of years. In December 2023, we finally had the chance to explore this incredible country, and it was everything we imagined and more. From standing at the base of the Pyramids to drifting along the Nile and stepping into brilliantly painted tombs, this trip was a dream realized.

If you like to travel, then you know where Egypt stands on most people's list. It took me a while to get there because a.) it takes a lot of planning and b.) flights and tours aren't cheap. Back when the world stopped, I had a trip to Ecuador planned with G-Adventures, it was March 2020.... it got cancelled. Yep, you guessed it, because of Covid-19. I won't get into details here, but know that I work healthcare, there was no break for me. I needed that trip and my wanderlust went unchecked for longer than I would have liked. The plus side is that since G-Adventures cancelled on me, I received 110% credit. Sooooo.. my friend and I looked into places that we didn't want to worry about finding our own transport and checking flight prices and Egypt became the obvious choice. We booked it and a few months later, the beginning of the Israeli conflict heated up. I was plagued with many people asking if I was still going to go. I spent time watching the news and travel advisories and I felt resolved in the fact that if G-adventures didn't cancel then I wasn't either. It was a solid choice. I felt very safe in Egypt. We did modify our plans a bit and decided to stick with G-adventures and our hotel in Cairo for the transportation. We ditched our thoughts of going to the Red Sea due to increased reports of sexual assaults (mostly by staff at popular tourist places). This turned out to be a good decision because the Red Sea did have some activity from the war but it would have happened after we had returned. Anyway, having a war nearby did seem to cause a lot of other tourists to remain at home which meant the common hot spots weren't as busy. At the end of this post, I will post some common tips and tricks we learned along the way and more comments about safety in general. Here is the start of the adventure...

Day 1 – Introduction & Arrival in Cairo

After 26 hours of travel, we finally landed in Cairo around 12:15 am. We had a pre-arranged airport escort waiting for us right after we stepped off the plane, and honestly, it was one of the smartest things we booked. She guided us through visas, immigration, and customs, telling us exactly what to hand over at each step. We breezed through the entire process stress-free.

She walked us straight to our van for the short drive to Pharaohs House, our first hotel. The hotel is clean and basic — nothing fancy, but perfectly fine for our first nights in Egypt. Our room had three beds, a balcony, a fridge, and a large bathroom. The beds were okay, but everything was spotless. We even saw housekeeping deep-cleaning the hallways one day, which was reassuring.

By the time we got to our room, we were completely wiped out. We checked in, dropped our bags, and immediately passed out.

Day 2 – Cairo Highlights

After finally getting some real sleep, we woke up around 9 am and made our way to the 10th floor of Pharaohs House for the free breakfast. The buffet was basic — eggs, breads, a few spreads — but the rooftop city views were the real highlight. It was nice to take a quiet moment and soak in the chaos of Cairo from above.

Hotel Lobby Tours & Last-Minute Planning

When we checked in last night, the hotel mentioned they offered optional guided tours. Since we already had several days pre-booked, we asked about something different. The front desk recommended a visit to the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization (NMEC) — and we were sold.

An hour later, we met our English-speaking Egyptologist guide in the lobby. This was the best decision of the day. Without him, we would’ve walked past a lot of things without fully understanding their significance.

National Museum of Egyptian Civilization (NMEC)

The museum is stunning, modern, and incredibly well-organized. It houses artifacts from every Egyptian dynasty, and our guide walked us through key pieces from pharaohs, priests, and everyday life.

The highlights:

  • Royal Mummies Hall — Located on the lower level, this was the star of the museum for me. You get an up-close look at actual preserved mummies of Egypt’s most famous rulers. Some were in incredible condition, while others were a bit more fragile, but all included detailed plaques about their reigns, accomplishments, and legacy. Photos are strictly forbidden here and the security team makes sure you follow the rules.

  • Special Textile & Jewelry Exhibit — At the time of our visit, there was a temporary rotating display of ancient textiles and jewelry. Our guide explained how each piece was made, how they were used in daily life, and even their role in burial rituals. Without him, I wouldn’t have appreciated just how significant they were.

We spent about 1.5–2 hours here before moving on, and honestly, we could’ve stayed longer.

Aroma & Oils Shop

After NMEC, we stopped at a local aroma and oils shop. Here, we learned how Egyptians have used oils for medicine, skincare, burial practices, and rituals since ancient times.

The shop owner gave us a demonstration, letting us sample scents extracted from lotus, sandalwood, jasmine, and other plants. Of course, the “demo” ended in a hard sales pitch, but we managed to enjoy the experience without buying half the store.

Lunch – Koshary

For lunch, we tried koshary, Egypt’s national dish — and it absolutely delivered. It’s a hearty, carb-heavy bowl loaded with:

  • Rice

  • Noodles

  • Lentils

  • Chickpeas

  • Tomato sauce

  • Fried onions

  • Garlic-lemon sauce

  • Chili oil

It sounds intense — and it is — but it was delicious. Definitely something you have to try while in Egypt, but maybe not every day unless you’re planning on climbing a pyramid right after.

After lunch, we headed back to the hotel for a quick rest before heading out again that evening.

Two visitors standing outside the National Museum of Egyptian Civilization in Cairo, posing in front of the museum’s entrance with the large sign and Arabic script visible on the wall.
Two elaborately decorated ancient Egyptian sarcophagi displayed side by side in a museum exhibit.
A museum exhibit showcasing ancient Egyptian artifacts, including glass and clay vessels, displayed in a well-lit case

Nile River Dinner Cruise

Our hotel arranged the evening’s dinner cruise on the Nile Crystal Sapphire, and the entire setup was smooth — hotel pickup included.

The boat itself was beautiful and comfortable, with large windows and plenty of space to move around.

Food:
The buffet had plenty of options — grilled meats, salads, local dishes, and desserts. It wasn’t mind-blowing, but it was good enough after a long day.

Entertainment:
This is where things got interesting. The cruise featured belly dancers, singers, and musicians. If you’re into lively shows, you’ll enjoy it. But coming from Las Vegas, we weren’t overly impressed with the performance quality. That said, most guests were clapping, singing, and loving every second, so it really depends on what you’re looking for.

The highlight for us:
About halfway through, we snuck away from the entertainment to the upper outdoor deck. Sitting under the stars, watching the city lights reflect on the Nile River, was pure magic — quiet, peaceful, and one of the most beautiful moments of the trip.

Drinks:
Dinner is included, but drinks are not. Prices ranged from about $1 USD for bottled water to $35 USD for a bottle of sparkling wine.

One hiccup:
Our driver didn’t show up at the dock afterward. We had to call the hotel to send someone else, which delayed getting back to the room. A minor annoyance, but worth noting if you’re planning something similar.

We wrapped up the night with full stomachs, tired feet, and a growing excitement for our first official big tour day tomorrow.

The brightly lit Nile Crystal Sapphire dinner cruise boat docked at night, reflecting on the water with multiple decks illuminated.
The brightly lit Nile Crystal Sapphire dinner cruise boat docked at night, reflecting on the water with multiple decks illuminated.

Day 3 – Sightseeing in Cairo

Muhammad Ali Mosque

The Muhammad Ali Mosque is one of Cairo’s most iconic landmarks and is absolutely breathtaking in person. Built in the early 19th century by Muhammad Ali Pasha, it sits high on the Citadel of Saladin, overlooking the city.

Key highlights of the mosque:

  • Architecture: Stunning Ottoman-style design with a massive central dome supported by four towering pillars, surrounded by smaller domes.

  • Alabaster walls: The entire exterior is covered in alabaster, giving it a distinctive glow.

  • Minarets: Two elegant Ottoman-style minarets rise over the Cairo skyline.

  • Courtyard: There’s an expansive courtyard featuring a central ablution fountain and rows of elegant arches.

  • Interior: The ceilings are decorated with ornate floral motifs, Islamic calligraphy, and stained glass windows that fill the prayer hall with soft, colorful light.

Tips before visiting:

  • Shoes must come off before entering the mosque.

  • Photography is allowed, so take your time capturing the details.

  • Step outside after your visit — the panoramic city views are incredible. On a clear day, you can even see the Pyramids of Giza in the distance

    Al-Gawhara Palace

    While still inside the Citadel complex, we stopped at Al-Gawhara Palace, also called the Jewel Palace. Built in the 19th century under Muhammad Ali Pasha’s rule, this palace served as his primary residence and a place to receive foreign dignitaries.

    Palace highlights:

    • Architecture: A mix of Ottoman, Mamluk, and European influences, combining domes, arched windows, and decorative stonework.

    • Courtyards: Beautifully designed courtyards filled with gardens, fountains, and marble pathways.

    • Reception halls: Intricately decorated with frescoes, ornate furnishings, and gilded details where state events were once held.

    Unfortunately, the palace was closed to the public during our visit, but it’s still worth seeing from the outside — its scale and design are impressive.

Citadel of Saladin

The Citadel of Saladin itself is an incredible historic site, dating back to the 12th century when it was commissioned by Salah ad-Din (Saladin) to defend Cairo from Crusader invasions.

Quick history recap:

  • Construction began in 1176 CE and the citadel served as a fortress and royal residence.

  • Over the centuries, it was expanded and renovated by Mamluk and Ottoman rulers.

  • Today, it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and houses multiple landmarks, including the Muhammad Ali Mosque, Al-Gawhara Palace, and several smaller museums.

Standing on its high bluff, you get sweeping views of modern Cairo below and a true sense of how strategically important this site was in Egyptian history.

A traveler sitting on a stone wall overlooking a panoramic view of Cairo, with the cityscape and distant pyramids visible under a clear sky.
The grand interior of the Muhammad Ali Mosque, featuring ornate domes, intricate designs, and hanging lights, with visitors walking across the polished floor.

Hanging Church & Saints Sergius and Bacchus

After exploring the Citadel, we headed into Coptic Cairo, one of the oldest neighborhoods in the city. The narrow streets here are lined with vendors, book stalls, souvenir stands, and small shops tucked into stone passageways. It’s a completely different vibe from the busy streets outside — quieter, older, and full of history.

Hanging Church (St. Virgin Mary)

  • Our first stop was the Hanging Church, officially called the Church of Saint Virgin Mary. Built above the Babylon Fortress gatehouse, it “hangs” over the ruins — hence the name.

    Highlights of the Hanging Church:

    • Age: Dates back to the 3rd century, with the current structure built around the 7th century.

    • Architecture: A blend of Coptic, Roman, and Byzantine styles with ornate woodwork, marble columns, and stunning stained-glass windows.

    • Glass floors: Inside, there are plexiglass panels where you can see the ancient pillars below.

    • Free admission & photos allowed, but visiting during active services means you’ll have to move quietly and limit wandering.

    Outside, the path leading up to the church has colorful stained-glass murals, plenty of stairs, and even free public bathrooms — rare in Cairo!

Saints Sergius & Bacchus (Abu Serga)

Next, we visited Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church, also known as Abu Serga. This church dates back to the 4th century and is believed to be built over the spot where the Holy Family sheltered during their flight into Egypt.

Inside, you’ll find:

  • Plexiglass-covered chambers showing excavation sites.

  • A hidden staircase behind the altar that leads to the crypt where tradition says the Holy Family rested.

  • A well believed to be blessed by Christ as a child, visible beneath glass flooring.

Admission is free and photos are allowed unless a ceremony is happening. The church also has frescoes and carvings blending Coptic and Byzantine styles, making it a beautiful, historic stop.

Hello, World!

A colorful stained-glass mural depicting the Virgin Mary and saints, mounted on the exterior wall outside the Hanging Church in Cairo.
The front entrance of the Hanging Church, featuring twin bell towers, arched windows, and a cross above the doorway.
An ancient brick-walled interior at Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church, showing a vaulted chamber with ropes marking off a historical area.
The main interior of Saints Sergius and Bacchus Church, highlighting its wooden ceilings, arched windows, and rows of pews leading to the altar.

Ben Ezra Synagogue

The last stop in Coptic Cairo was the Ben Ezra Synagogue, one of the oldest and most significant Jewish sites in Egypt. Built around the 9th century, it later became famous when researchers discovered the Cairo Genizah here — a collection of thousands of historic Jewish manuscripts.

Key details:

  • Originally constructed as a church, later purchased by Abraham Ben Ezra and converted into a synagogue.

  • Recently renovated to preserve its structure and historical artifacts.

  • Inside, it’s smaller and more ornate than the churches we visited, with Islamic, Coptic, and Jewish architectural elements blended together.

Photos aren’t allowed inside, and while admission is free, donations are encouraged to help with ongoing preservation.

Evening Group Meetup & Introductions

After a long but incredible day, we headed back to the hotel where we finally met the rest of our small group:

  • Laurence & Tiek Fee — A married couple from the UK, originally from Hong Kong and Malaysia.

  • Their daughter Allison and her boyfriend Allister — also from the UK.

  • Sean — A retired journalist from Wisconsin.

  • Helen — A high school history teacher from Australia.

  • Davin & Monica — A married couple from Spain.

We were a mix of backgrounds and personalities, but everyone clicked instantly. After a quick dinner together, we called it an early night to rest for Day 4’s big adventure at the Pyramids of Giza

Day 4 – Pyramids of Giza, The Sphinx & Overnight Train to Aswan

Breakfast was at 6:30 am, and by 7:15 am, we were on the bus ready for our first official group excursion: the Pyramids of Giza! I was beyond excited for this — finally seeing one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World in person.

Pyramids of Giza Overview

When we arrived, our guide gave us the rundown and explained that entering the Great Pyramid of Khufu was optional. The entrance fee was 900 EGP, but several people in our group — and even our guide — warned us against it. Inside, it’s hot, cramped, steep, and empty. Since we’d have another chance later in the trip to see a better-preserved interior, we decided to skip it this time.

Instead, we spent time exploring the grounds around the Great Pyramid, snapping photos and taking it all in.

Before you even get near the pyramids, you’ll be approached by camel and carriage handlers. Here’s what I learned:

  • A short camel or horse ride should cost about 300 EGP.

  • If you don’t negotiate upfront, you’ll almost always pay way more.

  • Expect a hard hustle — they’ll offer “free photos” and then demand tips, or insist on adding extra rides you didn’t agree to.

We did end up giving in to one hustler and scored some fun camel photos, so at least it wasn’t a total loss!

Behind the Great Pyramid, there are three smaller pyramids, known as the Queen’s Pyramids. These are less crowded and fun to explore.

There’s also a free entrance into one of the smaller pyramids nearby — and we decided to go for it. Fair warning:

  • The descent is steep with rung-style steps.

  • The chamber at the bottom is tiny and empty, but still fascinating.

  • Photos aren’t allowed inside, and trust me, they’re strict about it.

It was hot, cramped, and slippery, but worth the experience.

Next, we drove over to the Panorama Point, one of the best photo spots for capturing all three pyramids together in one sweeping view.

Some of the people in our group had pre-booked the optional camel ride here through our guide, so we hung back, enjoyed the scenery, and snapped more photos.

From there, we made our way to the Great Sphinx of Giza — and wow, standing in front of it is surreal. It’s one of those moments where photos just don’t do justice to the scale and detail.

Right next to the Sphinx is the Valley Temple, an ancient structure used for the mummification process of kings. Both are fascinating stops, but this area is packed with vendors, so prepare for some persistent selling tactics.

💡 Tip: You can walk the entire Giza Plateau, but distances are longer than they look. Since we were with a group, we used the tour shuttles between stops, which saved a ton of time (and energy).

A traveler standing near the Great Sphinx with the iconic Pyramids of Giza in the background on a sunny day.
A distant panoramic view of the Pyramids of Giza rising from the desert landscape under a hazy sky
A resting camel adorned with colorful blankets and saddles, sitting among stone ruins near the pyramids.
Two smiling travelers taking a selfie with one of the Great Pyramids behind them, surrounded by other visitors.
A traveler riding a camel decorated with traditional patterned blankets, with one of the Great Pyramids towering in the background.

After exploring the Sphinx, we headed to lunch at a nearby restaurant. The meal included:

  • Fresh pita with salad dips

  • Grilled chicken skewers

  • Rice and fries

  • Creamy rice pudding for dessert

The food was fine — nothing spectacular — but by this point, we were starving and happy to sit down.

Papyrus Shop Demonstration

Our next stop was a papyrus shop, where they gave a quick demonstration of how papyrus paper is made. They then ushered us into a room filled with hand-painted papyrus art — beautiful pieces, but very expensive.

Pro tip: don’t buy here unless you really love something. We found almost identical designs at the Old Cairo Museum gift shop later for much fairer prices.

Old Cairo Museum

Our last big stop of the day was the Old Cairo Museum, which, honestly, was a bit of a disappointment. A lot of the exhibits have already been moved to the new Grand Egyptian Museum (still not open yet during our trip), so the current collection feels somewhat disorganized.

That said, if you love Egyptian history, there are still some incredible pieces worth seeing — you just have to wander a bit to find them.

We ended up splitting from the main group and exploring at our own pace for about 2.5 hours, then hit the gift shop for souvenirs before regrouping at the coffee shop to wait for everyone else.

Overnight Sleeper Train to Aswan

After leaving the museum, we returned to the hotel where the tour company had arranged three shared rooms so we could shower, freshen up, and relax before the overnight train.

We met up again around 7 pm and headed to the train station. If you’ve never taken an Egyptian sleeper train, here’s what you should know:

  • Boarding is chaotic. Our group stood on the platform for almost an hour waiting for the train, which arrived late.

  • The sleeper cabins are small but clean, with two bunk beds per compartment and a sliding door that connects adjoining rooms.

  • Dinner is served onboard, but it feels like airline food — we were glad we’d eaten earlier.

  • Using the bathrooms was… let’s just say, a balancing act. The train shakes a lot, so holding your hover position is an Olympic event.

Despite all that, I slept better than expected and woke up around 5 am as we approached Aswan.

Two travelers sitting on a sleeper train bunk, smiling and posing for a photo before an overnight journey.
A museum exhibit showcasing a golden ancient Egyptian statue of a pharaoh inside a protective glass display case.
A traveler smiling next to another ancient Egyptian artifact, a carved statue head, displayed inside a museum hallway.

Day 5 – Aswan: Philae Temple, Unfinished Obelisk, Nubian Dinner & Bazaar

After a surprisingly decent night’s sleep on the overnight sleeper train, we arrived in Aswan around 8:30 am. We grabbed our bags, met our driver, and headed straight into another full day of sightseeing.

Temple of Philae (Agilkia Island)

Our first stop was the Temple of Philae, located on Agilkia Island in the Nile River. To get there, we took a short ride on a small motorboat that dropped us right at the temple entrance. Of course, before boarding, we had to navigate through vendors selling souvenirs at the dock — the hustle never stops in Egypt.

The Philae Temple complex is breathtaking and rich in history:

  • Dedication: Built in honor of the goddess Isis, the wife of Osiris and mother of Horus.

  • Construction: Dates back to the Ptolemaic and Roman periods, starting around 380 BCE.

  • Relocation: In the 1960s, the entire temple was dismantled and relocated stone by stone to Agilkia Island to save it from being submerged after the construction of the Aswan High Dam.

  • Architecture: The temple features towering columns, massive gateways, intricate hieroglyphics, and detailed reliefs depicting gods, pharaohs, and religious ceremonies.

  • UNESCO World Heritage Site: Philae is part of the Nubian Monuments from Abu Simbel to Philae, recognized globally for its cultural significance.

We had a guided tour, then 45 minutes of free time to wander, take photos, and soak in the views of the Nile surrounding the island.

Hotel Review – Hapi Hotel

After visiting Philae, we headed to our hotel for the night, Hapi Hotel.

Quick review:

  • The rooms were spacious, with AC units, a balcony, and a personal hot water tank (a rare luxury in Egypt!).

  • On the downside, the towels were terrible and the carpeted rooms felt a little outdated.

  • Overall, it was clean and comfortable, and the location was convenient.

We dropped our bags, freshened up, and headed back out for the afternoon’s adventures.

A group of travelers posing together in front of the ancient Philae Temple ruins, surrounded by historic stone structures.
The entrance to the Philae Temple, featuring tall stone walls engraved with detailed hieroglyphics and carvings of Egyptian deities.
Massive stone columns at the Philae Temple, showcasing intricate carvings and ancient Egyptian architecture.
A close-up view of Philae Temple’s hieroglyphics and wall carvings, capturing the intricate artwork and texture of the stone.
A tour boat docked on the Nile River, used to transport visitors to and from the Philae Temple island.

Unfinished Obelisk & Quarry Walk

Our driver took us to the Unfinished Obelisk, an archaeological site that gives you a glimpse into how ancient Egyptians carved and transported massive stone monuments.

About the obelisk:

  • Location: Situated in Aswan’s northern granite quarries.

  • Commissioned by: Likely Queen Hatshepsut (18th Dynasty) or Thutmose III.

  • Size: If completed, it would have stood 137 feet tall and weighed around 1,168 tons — making it the largest obelisk ever attempted.

  • Why it’s unfinished: A massive crack formed during the carving process, forcing workers to abandon it.

  • Technique: Ancient Egyptians used diorite balls to pound the granite directly out of the bedrock, leaving visible tool marks everywhere.

While exploring, we had a unique experience:

  • A police officer stationed in a tower greeted us and offered to show us some “off-limits” areas.

  • He led us to sections with faint, almost invisible inscriptions, as well as a set of hidden stairs leading to two huge black granite rocks used for shaping pink granite.

  • We also got up close to areas with giant drilled holes used in the carving process.

  • Of course, he took plenty of photos for us — and yes, he expected a tip at the end.

This impromptu behind-the-scenes tour made the visit so much more memorable and gave us a new appreciation for the backbreaking work that went into carving these monuments by hand.

A view of the massive Unfinished Obelisk carved into the granite bedrock, showing cracks and the scale of the ancient project.
Two travelers standing among the rocky excavation site, surrounded by carved granite surfaces and steps used by ancient workers.
Two smiling travelers posing together at the Unfinished Obelisk site, with weathered stone formations and quarrying marks in the background.

Coptic Orthodox Cathedral of the Archangel Michael

Next, our driver suggested a stop at the Coptic Orthodox Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, a newer church still under construction.

For $1 USD, we got a private English-speaking tour from one of the staff members. The cathedral is entirely funded by donations and designed to hold 3,000 people once completed.

Highlights of the cathedral:

  • Massive dome ceilings with intricate paintings and carvings.

  • Detailed iconography referencing major religious figures.

  • Beautiful arches, stained glass, and symbolic designs throughout.

Even though it’s still unfinished, the sheer size and artistry make this cathedral worth a quick visit if you’re in Aswan.

Aswan Bazaar – Haggling & Chaos

With some free time before dinner, we walked to the nearby Aswan Bazaar, a lively, multi-block maze of vendors selling everything imaginable:

  • Spices

  • Scarves and clothes

  • Handcrafted jewelry

  • Wooden figurines

  • Shoes, bags, and home goods

It’s absolute chaos in the best way, but be prepared for aggressive sellers. Everyone wants your attention, and kids will approach you trying to sell trinkets or tug on your arm.

Haggling tips we learned quickly:

  • Avoid eye contact unless you’re ready to engage.

  • Act like you’ve already bought something — saying “I already got one” stops vendors faster than a polite “no.”

  • Always, always negotiate. Start much lower than their first price — it’s expected.

We bought a few T-shirts after some serious bargaining, but most of the items were similar to what we’d seen elsewhere.

Nubian Village Rooftop Dinner

In the evening, we regrouped with our tour and boarded a small boat for a Nubian cultural experience. We sailed across the Nile to a Nubian village, where we were welcomed by our host and invited to dine on their rooftop terrace.

Dinner was incredible:

  • Lentil soup

  • Potatoes in sauce

  • Okra

  • Grilled chicken

  • Egg pie

  • Nubian bread

  • Eggplant dishes

  • Fresh raw vegetables

After dinner, our host shared stories about Nubian traditions, family life, and language. One fun fact:

  • Nubian is only a spoken language — there’s no written form.

  • There are two different Nubian dialects, and many Nubians marry outside their own tribe but still within the culture.

It felt incredibly welcoming, and it was one of our most memorable meals of the trip.

Exterior view of the Coptic Orthodox Cathedral of the Archangel Michael, featuring its grand white facade, arched windows, and modern architectural design.
Inside the cathedral, showing the main altar and intricately designed golden details, with rows of wooden pews leading to the front.
Inside the cathedral, showing the main altar and intricately designed golden details, with rows of wooden pews leading to the front.
A scenic view of the Nile River at sunset, with the city skyline and reflections on the water.
A night view of the Nile River with illuminated city buildings and vibrant reflections shimmering on the water.
A group of travelers sitting with a Nubian family around a low table, enjoying a traditional dinner inside a colorful open-air setting.

Driving & Traffic in Egypt

Ending the night, we experienced Egyptian traffic at its finest:

  • Three-lane roads somehow fit five rows of cars.

  • Buses barrel forward aggressively, forcing their way through.

  • Pedestrians casually weave between moving cars, sometimes pausing in the middle of the road until they find another opening.

Locals insist there are rarely accidents, but judging by the number of dents and scrapes on every car, I’m not convinced. It’s chaotic but somehow… functional.

Day 6 – Abu Simbel, Old Cataract Hotel & Nile Sunset

This day started bright and painfully early — my alarm went off at 3:30 am for our 5:00 am departure. We packed up, grabbed our boxed breakfasts and snacks, and piled into the bus for the 4-hour drive to Abu Simbel. Watching the sunrise over the desert as the city disappeared behind us was surreal, but coffee would’ve made it better.

Abu Simbel Temples

After the long ride, we arrived at Abu Simbel, one of the most impressive archaeological sites in all of Egypt.

About the site:

  • Location: Near the Sudanese border, on the western bank of Lake Nasser.

  • Built by: Pharaoh Ramesses II in the 13th century BCE.

  • Temples: Two rock-cut temples:

    • The Great Temple, dedicated to Ramesses II himself and several gods.

    • The Small Temple, dedicated to his wife Queen Nefertari.

  • Relocation: In the 1960s, the entire site was dismantled and reconstructed piece by piece on higher ground to save it from flooding after the creation of the Aswan High Dam.

  • Colossal Statues: The entrance is guarded by four massive seated statues of Ramesses II, each nearly 70 feet tall — and seeing them in person is jaw-dropping.

  • Solar Alignment: Twice a year (in February and October), the morning sun perfectly aligns to illuminate the sanctuary inside.

Our experience:
We walked up the sandy path, and suddenly the temples revealed themselves — an unforgettable moment. Inside, the walls are covered with detailed hieroglyphics and battle scenes carved over 3,000 years ago.

After touring the temples, the only way out is through a long, unavoidable bazaar. Be prepared:

  • You’ll hear, “Everything is $1!”

  • “Free gift! No hassle!”

  • And my favorite: “Best price, my friend!”

Here’s the truth:

  • Haggle for everything — they always start high.

  • If you buy from one seller, bundle items together for a better deal.

  • If you like something from a different stall, ask your vendor — they’ll often get it for you to secure the sale.

I ended up buying a small carved wooden camel for $2 USD from a friendly vendor who didn’t pressure us — which felt like a win in this sea of hustlers.

Three travelers posing in front of the massive statues at the entrance of Abu Simbel Temple under a clear blue sky.
A close-up view of detailed hieroglyphics and ancient carvings on the exterior walls of Abu Simbel Temple.
Inside Abu Simbel Temple, showing a row of colossal statues carved into the stone walls with intricate hieroglyphics above them.
travelers posing in front of the massive statues at the entrance of Abu Simbel Temple under a clear blue sky.
Tourists walking inside Abu Simbel Temple, illuminated by natural light streaming in from the entrance.
A frontal view of the Great Temple at Abu Simbel, showcasing four seated statues of Pharaoh Ramses II carved into the rock face.

We piled back into the bus for the 4-hour return to Aswan. Most of us napped, snacked, and silently questioned why vacations require so many early mornings.

Old Cataract Hotel – High Tea, Lunch & Luxury

Back in Aswan, our small group had already decided we wanted to splurge a little and visit the famous Old Cataract Hotel — an icon perched on a granite cliff overlooking the Nile.

A little history:

  • Built in 1899, this hotel has hosted royalty, celebrities, and political leaders over the decades.

  • It was the inspiration for Agatha Christie’s “Death on the Nile”, and you can even rent her suite for about $5,000 per night.

  • The design blends Art Deco elegance with Mamluk-inspired architecture, featuring rich maroon interiors, gold accents, and sweeping Nile views.

Our experience:

  • We initially called the hotel and were told non-guests couldn’t dine there — but after a moment on hold, they came back and offered high tea or limited lunch dining options for visitors.

  • We arrived expecting just tea but were pleasantly surprised to find we could order from the full lunch menu.

  • Since the main dining room was reserved for hotel guests, we were seated in a side area — still beautiful, still scenic.

  • Our lunch, dessert, and drinks ended up being about $50 USD per person, which felt reasonable given the location and history.

Pro tip:

  • The high tea menu looked fantastic, so if you want a lighter, picturesque experience, it’s worth booking in advance.

  • Staff were welcoming, likely due to tourism being down because of regional unrest.

After lunch, we took a quick walk down to the lower terrace overlooking the Nile and the pool. It was one of those quiet, peaceful travel moments you remember long after the trip ends.

On the way back to the hotel, we took a leisurely walk along the Nile Corniche and stopped for photos at the colorful Aswan sign. After so much sightseeing, it was nice to slow down and enjoy the river breeze.

A group of travelers dining outdoors at a rooftop restaurant in Aswan, enjoying a meal with a view of palm trees and the Nile River.
Three travelers posing in front of the Sofitel Legend Old Cataract Hotel sign, surrounded by festive lights and decorations.
A traveler posing next to the Aswan city landmark sign, brightly lit against the night sky.

Day 7 – Nile Felucca Ride, Kom Ombo Temple & Arrival in Luxor

After a whirlwind few days, Day 7 started a little more relaxed. Breakfast was at 7:00 am, and by 8:30 am, we had our bags packed and were ready for a slow, scenic sail down the Nile.

We walked across the street to board our traditional felucca — a wooden sailboat with padded flooring and a full foam cover so you could sit, sprawl, or nap comfortably.

The sail was peaceful, quiet, and absolutely gorgeous. We glided down the Nile for about three hours, watching the riverbanks, passing fishing boats, and enjoying the slower pace.

💡 Restroom tip: Occasionally, a motorboat would pull up alongside us so passengers could hop over and use the bathroom mid-journey — a funny, unexpected perk on the river.

After our relaxing sail, we transferred onto a larger motorboat where lunch was served. The ride was short but scenic, and it was nice to sit in the breeze while eating before we reached the dam, where our tour bus awaited.

A group of travelers relaxing on a felucca sailboat, sitting barefoot on patterned cushions while cruising along the Nile River.
A group of travelers enjoying lunch aboard the felucca, seated around a long wooden table filled with traditional Egyptian dishes as the boat sails down the river.

Kom Ombo Temple & Crocodile Museum

From the boat, we drove about an hour to Kom Ombo, home to one of Egypt’s most unique temples.

About Kom Ombo Temple:

  • Dual Purpose: It’s a double temple — one side dedicated to the falcon-headed god Horus and the other to the crocodile-headed god Sobek.

  • Construction: Built during the Ptolemaic period (180–47 BCE) and later expanded in the Roman period.

  • Architecture: Features classic Egyptian design — massive pylons, colonnaded courtyards, and intricate hieroglyphs.

  • Crocodile Museum: This onsite museum houses mummified crocodiles once considered sacred to Sobek.

Our guide walked us through both halves of the temple, pointing out differences in the reliefs, before we visited the Crocodile Museum — fascinating, but also a little eerie seeing dozens of perfectly preserved crocodile mummies.

We spent about an hour here wandering around, snapping photos, and soaking up the details before heading back to the bus.

A long stone corridor inside Kom Ombo Temple, lined with towering columns leading into the distance.
A ceiling view inside Kom Ombo Temple, showing ornate carvings and faded ancient artwork.
The main entrance of Kom Ombo Temple, showcasing its massive stone pillars and intricate carvings against a bright blue sky.
A wall relief at Kom Ombo Temple depicting carved figures and inscriptions from ancient Egyptian mythology.
A close-up of carved columns at Kom Ombo Temple, highlighting detailed hieroglyphics and sculpted figures.
Ancient crocodile mummies displayed inside the Kom Ombo Crocodile Museum, preserved in glass cases with soft blue lighting.
A wide-angle view of Kom Ombo Temple’s ruins, featuring open courtyards and scattered stone remnants under a clear sky.

Five-Hour Drive to Luxor

Then came the five-hour drive to Luxor — and to be honest, it was a bit rough. The roads weren’t traditional highways; they were bumpy, winding, and narrow. If you’re prone to motion sickness, this is the time to have snacks, water, and medication handy.

By the time we arrived in Luxor, everyone was ready to stretch their legs and grab dinner. Our group meal included — you guessed it — grilled chicken and rice 😑. At this point, I was officially over the combo, but food was food after a long day.

After dinner, we headed to the Luxor Bazaar, a lively, labyrinth-like market packed with:

  • Jewelry stalls

  • Scarves and textiles

  • Spices and teas

  • Papyrus art

  • Bags, shoes, and tourist trinkets

While the market is full of unique finds, it’s also full of aggressive sellers using every trick in the book to get your attention:

  • “Hello, my friend!”

  • “Everything is free!”

  • “Today is special price just for you!”

Haggling tips we used successfully:

  • If you’re not interested, keep walking — even eye contact is an invitation.

  • When you find something you like, bundle purchases to get the best deal.

  • Seek out quieter shops where vendors don’t pressure you; we found the best buys there.

We scored a few deals on T-shirts and souvenirs before heading back to the hotel to rest for an early start the next morning.

Day 8: Hatshepsut Temple, Valley of the Kings & Deir el-Medina

We kicked off Day 8 with breakfast at 6:30 am, eating on the balcony while watching dozens of hot air balloons float across the Luxor sky. It was a magical way to start the day, and the excitement built knowing how packed this day would be.

By 7:30 am, we met our group and boarded a large tour bus, crossing the Nile River by ferry to the west bank where our adventures began.

Bike Ride Through Kurna Al Boaairat Village

Our first stop was Kurna Al Boaairat, a quiet village along the Nile. We were greeted by volunteers from Funtas/a, a nonprofit teaching kids life skills like gardening, English, and art.

After meeting them, we hopped on bikes and rode through narrow dirt streets lined with colorful houses, kids waving and calling out as we passed. It was an intimate glimpse into daily local life — a refreshing contrast from the busier tourist sites.

A group of travelers and locals gathered on a dirt road in Kurna Al Boairat village, surrounded by bicycles and mud-brick houses.
A scenic rooftop view of Luxor city, showing colorful buildings, minarets, and the Nile River in the distance.
A line of travelers posing with their bicycles in the desert near Luxor, arms raised against a backdrop of golden sand dunes.
A close-up portrait of a traveler wearing a bike helmet and smiling while participating in the village biking tour.
A row of bicycles parked outside a simple open-air structure in Kurna Al Boairat village, where volunteers and locals gather.

Hatshepsut Temple (Djeser-Djeseru)

Next, we visited the Mortuary Temple of Hatshepsut, also called Djeser-Djeseru — one of the most unique temples in Egypt.

Highlights of the site:

  • Built in the 15th century BCE for Pharaoh Hatshepsut, one of Egypt’s few female rulers.

  • Designed by her architect Senenmut with three massive terraces carved directly into the limestone cliffs.

  • Reliefs depict her divine birth, trading expeditions, and her reign’s achievements.

  • After Hatshepsut’s death, her successor Thutmose III tried to erase her legacy, destroying statues and carving out her images.

  • Today, the temple is partially reconstructed and still an active archaeological site where ongoing excavations reveal more every year.

A quick golf cart ride took us from the entrance to the base of the temple, then we climbed the terraces to soak in the panoramic views. The structure’s sheer scale is awe-inspiring — it’s hard to believe this was built over 3,000 years ago.

A seated sphinx statue carved from stone, positioned against the desert landscape near the temple.
A traveler posing with three friendly locals dressed in traditional attire near the entrance of Hatshepsut Temple.
Two colossal statues at the entrance of Hatshepsut Temple, carved into the stone walls with detailed hieroglyphics.
A preserved ancient Egyptian sarcophagus on display inside the temple, intricately decorated with carvings and inscriptions.
A long colonnade of the Hatshepsut Temple, showing rows of tall columns and stairways leading to the upper levels.

Valley of the Kings

After Hatshepsut’s temple, we headed to the Valley of the Kings, one of the most famous archaeological sites in the world.

Quick facts:

  • Burial site of pharaohs from the 18th, 19th, and 20th dynasties (1539–1075 BCE).

  • Over 62 tombs have been discovered so far, with intricate corridors, burial chambers, and vivid wall paintings.

  • Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1979.

At the visitor center, we checked out a 3D display showing how deep the tombs run beneath the hills — fascinating and slightly claustrophobic to think about. From there, we took golf carts to the site and visited three included tombs:

Tomb of Rameses IV (KV2)

Dynasty: 20th Dynasty (~1155 BCE).

  • Features a long descending corridor, leading into a large burial chamber with an intricately carved sarcophagus.

  • The walls are decorated with scenes from the Book of the Dead, though many colors have faded over time.

  • While less vibrant than others, it offers incredible insights into royal burial traditions.

A richly decorated ceiling within the tomb, showcasing intricate patterns, colorful artwork, and ancient Egyptian hieroglyphics.
A narrow stone hallway with walls engraved and painted with vibrant hieroglyphics and religious symbols.
A close-up of a wall carving inside the tomb, depicting ancient Egyptian figures and inscriptions with faded pigments.

Tomb of Rameses I (KV16)

Dynasty: 19th Dynasty (~1292 BCE).

  1. Discovered in 1817, this tomb is small but beautifully preserved.

  2. Features steep stairs and vibrant wall art — much brighter than Rameses IV’s tomb.

  3. Crowded but worth the visit for the artistry and vivid hierogl

A vibrant wall painting inside the tomb of Ramesses I, depicting ancient Egyptian figures with red, white, and gold pigments.
A narrow passageway inside the tomb leading to a decorated chamber, with painted walls and a small arched doorway in the distance.
A close-up of a corner wall inside the tomb, showing detailed artwork of Egyptian deities and hieroglyphics in vivid colors.

Tomb of Rameses IX (KV6)

Dynasty: 20th Dynasty (~1126 BCE).

  1. The largest of the included tombs with three long corridors, a pillared hall, and a massive burial chamber.

  2. Contains a red quartzite sarcophagus and more colorful paintings depicting passages from the Book of Gates.

A ceiling inside the tomb of Ramesses IX, showcasing faded artwork, intricate patterns, and ancient hieroglyphics.
A decorated hallway inside the tomb, filled with colorful paintings of Egyptian deities and symbolic carvings on the walls and ceiling.
A close-up of an engraved stone wall covered in intricate hieroglyphics, showing the craftsmanship of ancient artisans.
A highly detailed wall mural depicting Egyptian gods and hieroglyphics, featuring vivid reds, golds, and earth tones.
A burial chamber within the tomb, with painted ceilings, walls filled with colorful artwork, and a recessed stone sarcophagus area.

💡 Extra tomb options:
Additional tombs, including Tutankhamun’s, require separate tickets ranging from 180 to 1,800 EGP. Since we had more tombs on the agenda later, we skipped these.

Colossi of Memnon

Next, we stopped at the Colossi of Memnon — two massive stone statues of Pharaoh Amenhotep III that once stood at the entrance of his mortuary temple.

  • Each statue is 60 feet tall and carved from single sandstone blocks.

  • The surrounding complex was mostly destroyed by earthquakes, floods, and repurposing stones for newer buildings, leaving only the statues behind.

  • This is a quick stop since you can’t access the site beyond the statues themselves.

A wide-angle view of the two massive Colossi of Memnon statues, standing side by side in the open desert with mountains in the background.
A closer shot of one of the Colossi of Memnon, highlighting the weathered stone details and towering height of the ancient monument.
A different angle of the second Colossi of Memnon statue, showing erosion patterns and palm trees nearby under a clear blue sky.

Valley of the Queens

After lunch, we visited the Valley of the Queens, where royal wives, princesses, and princes were buried during the New Kingdom.

One of the most famous tombs here is Queen Nefertari’s (QV66), known for its stunning, well-preserved wall paintings. However, it requires a separate ticket (2,000 EGP), and we opted to skip it since several other tombs were included in our pas

s:

Tomb of Prince Khaemwaset

  • Son of Ramesses II and considered the “first Egyptologist” for his dedication to restoring ancient monuments.

  • Features two chambers, vivid wall paintings, and glass-protected engravings.

  • The tomb was nearly empty — a rare moment of quiet in Egypt.

Tomb of Titi

  • A lesser-known tomb believed to belong to a secondary wife of Ramesses III.

  • Compact with low ceilings and faded paintings, but still beautiful and intimate.

Tomb of Prince Amenherkhepshef

  • Son of Ramesses III, involved in the infamous Harem Conspiracy.

  • The tomb features three chambers with vibrant paintings and even a mummified fetus on display — a unique, slightly eerie detail.

The entrance to an ancient tomb carved into the hillside at the Valley of the Queens, partially shaded with rocky terrain surrounding it.
A close-up view of another tomb entrance, descending into the ground with steep stone walls and an open rectangular shaft.
A wide shot of the Valley of the Queens landscape, showing sandy hills and ancient excavation areas under a bright sky.
Colorful wall paintings inside Prince Amenherkhepshef’s tomb, depicting ancient Egyptian figures, deities, and hieroglyphics.
A highly decorated burial chamber with intricate ceiling artwork and detailed wall carvings showcasing traditional Egyptian symbols.
A preserved stone sarcophagus inside the tomb, partially enclosed in a protective glass case for preservation.

Deir el-Medina – Worker’s Village & Tombs

Next came one of my absolute favorite stops: Deir el-Medina, a site that surprisingly gets very few tourists despite being unforgettable.

About the site:

  • Once home to the artisans and builders of the royal tombs.

  • Occupied from the 18th–20th Dynasties, it offers a rare glimpse into the daily lives of ancient Egyptians.

  • Features the remains of the village, a temple, and three incredible tombs open to the public.

We were lucky to meet the lead archaeologist on-site, who gave us an impromptu tour and shared behind-the-scenes details about ongoing excavations.

The three tombs we visited:

  • Tomb of Inherkha (TT359): Features vivid yellow-and-black artwork and multiple chambers connected by steep stairs.

  • Newly Opened Tomb (Unmarked): Required crawling through low passages into a chamber filled with brilliant reds and golds. Easily the most stunning tomb of the day.

  • Tomb of Sennedjem (TT1): Compact but dazzling, with vivid blue and green paintings depicting daily life and the journey to the afterlife.

The Temple of Deir el-Medina:

  • Dedicated to Hathor (goddess of love, music, and dance) and Amenhotep I.

  • Perfectly preserved columns, hypostyle halls, chapels, and a roof we were allowed to climb for incredible views.

  • Features vibrant reds, blues, and even gold accents — rare and breathtaking.

This entire site was almost empty of tourists, making it one of the most peaceful and rewarding stops of the trip.

A colorful wall painting inside the tomb, illustrating figures engaged in ceremonial activities with vivid reds, yellows, and blacks.
Inside the Tomb of Sennedjem, featuring beautifully painted walls and a vibrant arched ceiling with intricate hieroglyphics and symbolic artwork.
A traveler sitting inside the tomb’s narrow entrance chamber, surrounded by detailed wall paintings of Egyptian deities and rituals.
A close-up of a vibrant wall painting inside the Tomb of Inherkha, depicting detailed scenes of Egyptian life and rituals.
A richly decorated ceiling covered in intricate hieroglyphics and patterns, showcasing traditional Egyptian artistry.
A close-up of a colorful wall mural inside the tomb, illustrating a seated Egyptian figure and vibrant symbolic patterns.
A long corridor inside the Tomb of Sennedjem, with elaborately painted ceilings and walls covered in vivid hieroglyphics.
The entrance to an ancient stone temple at Deir el-Medina, featuring a single dark doorway framed by massive stone blocks.
The entrance to an ancient stone temple at Deir el-Medina, featuring a single dark doorway framed by massive stone blocks.
A tomb interior with preserved wall carvings and hieroglyphics, softly lit along the narrow corridor.
An intricately carved stone column topped with a Hathor-headed design, located inside the temple ruins.
A group of travelers posing in front of the ancient temple ruins, surrounded by grand stone pillars.
A view looking down into a deep circular excavation pit, with sunlight streaming through from above.
A decorated stone doorway and column inside the temple, showing weathered hieroglyphics and carvings.
Visitors walking along the rocky pathways of Deir el-Medina, overlooking the surrounding desert hills.
A wide-angle shot of the Deir el-Medina archaeological site, showing scattered ruins and distant desert mountains.

Dinner & Evening Bazaar

Back in Luxor, we grabbed dinner at Aboudi Coffee Break, trying Egyptian meat pies and dessert pies — both were delicious. Service was slow, but since we were traveling with friends, it turned into a fun, relaxed evening.

After dinner, we returned to the Luxor Bazaar for one last shopping spree before heading to the hotel.

Day 9 – Karnak Temple, Sphinx Avenue & Luxor Temple

We started the day leisurely with breakfast at 8:30 am, watching more hot air balloons drift over Luxor. Then it was onto the bus for a day of exploring some of Egypt’s most iconic temples.

Karnak Temple Complex

Our first major stop was the Karnak Temple Complex, one of the largest and most impressive sites in all of Egypt. Located on the east bank of the Nile, it was dedicated mainly to Amun, though many pharaohs added to it over centuries.

Highlights of Karnak Temple:

  • Great Hypostyle Hall: A forest of 134 massive columns, each covered in hieroglyphics. Walking through it feels surreal.

  • Obelisks: Queen Hatshepsut erected some of the most famous ones here.

  • Pylons: Gigantic gateways built by different rulers, each leaving their mark.

  • Sacred Lake: Once used for rituals and purification ceremonies.

  • Avenue of Sphinxes: Originally connected Karnak to Luxor Temple (more on that later).

💡 Tip: Head to the left side toward the Open-Air Museum. It’s quieter, and we were practically alone.

Towering sandstone columns inside Karnak Temple’s Great Hypostyle Hall, with sunlight streaming between the massive structures.
Two tall obelisks standing among the temple ruins, surrounded by scattered stones and ancient walls.
A wide view of Karnak Temple’s interior courtyard, showing massive decorated columns and intricate hieroglyphics.
A partially preserved statue of an ancient Egyptian figure at Karnak Temple, positioned near the temple entrance with stone walls in the background.

Karnak Open-Air Museum

The museum sits within the Karnak grounds and displays artifacts discovered during excavations. It gives you a chance to really appreciate the detail of smaller finds up close.

What you’ll see:

  • Statues of gods and pharaohs

  • Stelae with religious texts

  • Sphinxes from the original avenues

  • Fragments of columns and lintels

It’s much more peaceful than the main complex and worth the detour.

The Red Chapel of Hatshepsut and Thutmose III, featuring a restored sandstone gateway under a clear blue sky.
The Chapel of Amenhotep I, showing a rectangular stone structure with a shadowed entrance leading inside.
A broader view of the Chapel of Amenhotep I, capturing its symmetrical design and raised stone platform with steps.
The White Chapel of Senusret I, showcasing intricately carved stone walls and weathered ancient construction details.

Temple of Khonsu

Still within the Karnak complex, we visited the Temple of Khonsu, dedicated to the moon god (part of the Theban Triad with Amun and Mut).

Key features:

  • Built by Ramesses III during the New Kingdom.

  • Layout includes an entrance pylon, courtyard, hypostyle hall, and sanctuaries.

  • Reliefs show pharaohs offering gifts to the gods.

  • A processional way once linked it to Karnak’s larger temples.

Smaller than Karnak’s main halls, but more intimate and just as beautiful.

From Karnak, we started down the Avenue of Sphinxes, a 2.2 km-long road lined with carved sphinxes that once connected Karnak Temple to Luxor Temple.

  • About halfway, you need to buy an additional ticket to continue into Luxor Temple.

  • If you stop, you can exit at the midpoint.

  • We decided to walk it all the way through — highly recommend if you have time.

Luxor Temple

Finally, we arrived at Luxor Temple, built during the New Kingdom. Dedicated to the Theban Triad (Amun, Mut, and Khonsu), it’s another massive site that blends pharaonic and later Roman influences.

Highlights of Luxor Temple:

  • Great Court: With double rows of columns and giant statues of Amenhotep III.

  • Colonnade of Amenhotep III: Rows of towering papyrus-bundle columns.

  • Hypostyle Hall: Covered in ritual scenes, some still with color.

  • Sanctuaries & Barque Shrine: Once held sacred boats for religious festivals.

  • Roman Influence: Later rulers added chapels and reused temple spaces.

Standing here, surrounded by 3,000 years of history, is truly humbling.

After the temples, we attempted to grab Italian food, only to find the restaurant was inside the Sofitel Winter Palace and only open for dinner. Luckily, their poolside café was serving lunch, so we ate there instead.

💡 Expect to spend 500+ EGP for meals at Sofitel-level hotels. The food was great, and the setting felt like a step back in time.

Back at the hotel, we packed, showered, and got ready for our last group dinner.

This group was honestly a travel blessing — everyone respected each other’s time, had a good sense of humor, and enjoyed doing their own thing when needed. Normally, I shy away from group tours, but this one was fantastic.

✅ Every detail included (your lunch detour, spending tips, group vibes).
✅ Polished flow but still your personal voice.
✅ Heading IDs added so your TOC will link perfectly.

Day 10 – Luxor to Cairo, Saqqara & Memphis

We woke up early, loaded the bus, and headed for the Luxor Airport. Security there is no joke — you have to scan your bags and walk through metal detectors just to enter the airport itself. Then, you wait in line to drop checked bags before going through another round of security, where carry-ons are scanned and passengers walk through metal detectors again.

At several points, men sat at tables pulling travelers aside for random additional checks. It sounds intense, but the process actually moved fairly quickly, and we were on our plane without much hassle.

Saqqara – Step Pyramid of Djoser

When we landed in Cairo, most of the group said their goodbyes, but we weren’t done yet. Along with David, Monica, and Michael, we headed out for one last bonus tour: Saqqara.

Saqqara is one of the most important archaeological sites in Egypt, famous for the Step Pyramid of Djoser, built during the 27th century BCE by the architect Imhotep. This is considered the earliest monumental stone structure in Egypt and a huge step in the evolution of pyramid design.

Highlights:

  • The Step Pyramid is massive, and you can walk around it freely.

  • A smaller pyramid on-site is open to the public. You can climb inside its chamber, and while the walk is a bit steep, it’s not difficult. Entry is free, but only during limited morning hours — so plan ahead.

  • Several tombs and mastabas are also accessible, each showing details of Egypt’s earliest funerary architecture.

We spent about 1–1.5 hours exploring the site. It’s surreal to stand in front of something built nearly 5,000 years ago that still dominates the desert landscape.

Towering statues and columns at the entrance of Luxor Temple, showcasing ancient Egyptian architecture and craftsmanship.
The mosque of Abu Haggag, built within Luxor Temple, representing the blend of ancient Egyptian, Islamic, and Roman influences.
A wide-angle view of the grand colonnade inside Luxor Temple, featuring rows of massive columns under a bright blue sky.
A close-up of two large seated statues carved from stone, positioned side by side inside Luxor Temple.
A walkway lined with tall stone columns at the Saqqara complex, leading toward the Step Pyramid area.
Scattered stone ruins and fragments from the ancient Saqqara necropolis, set against a desert backdrop.
Two travelers posing in front of the iconic Step Pyramid of Djoser at Saqqara under a partly cloudy sky.
The entrance to a tomb at Saqqara, built from layered stone blocks, surrounded by smaller ruins.
Ruins of ancient stone walls at Saqqara, showcasing the weathered remains of Egypt’s early monumental architecture.
A distant view of the Step Pyramid rising from the desert sands, framed by open sky and surrounding ruins.

Memphis – Ancient Capital

Next, we continued to Memphis, Egypt’s ancient capital. Founded around 3100 BCE, Memphis was a major political, religious, and cultural hub, strategically located where Upper and Lower Egypt meet.

Today, little remains of the city, but its significance is undeniable. Highlights include:

  • The Temple of Ptah once stood here, devoted to Memphis’s chief deity.

  • Ruins and fragments of ancient temples, palaces, and statues are scattered across the site.

  • Most impressive is the Colossus of Ramses II — a gigantic red granite statue, about 11 meters (36 feet) tall, depicting the pharaoh seated in all his grandeur. Standing next to it gives you a sense of Ramses II’s power and Egypt’s architectural ambition.

While Memphis doesn’t take long to visit (we covered the site in about 30 minutes), it’s worth the stop. Street vendors are scattered around, so be ready for the usual haggling.

Final Hours & Journey Home

After Memphis, we returned to our original Cairo hotel and rented a room for $30 USD. It was well worth it to shower, nap, and recharge for about 8 hours before our middle-of-the-night flight.

The airport experience was smooth, but in Paris we hit a hiccup — our next flight was delayed 4 hours, which would’ve caused us to miss our connection. Thankfully, we managed to rebook onto a different route and made it home without further issues.

A colossal fallen statue of Pharaoh Ramses II displayed inside the Memphis Museum, lying on its back within a large open hall, surrounded by viewing walkways and visitors.

Final Thoughts on Egypt ✨

Egypt was the trip of a lifetime—a living tapestry of ancient wonders, river sunsets, and warm, welcoming people. From Cairo’s energy and the Pyramids’ sheer scale to drifting along the Nile and stepping into brilliantly painted tombs in Luxor, every day felt unforgettable.

What surprised us most were the moments in between: sharing dinner in a colorful Nubian village, gliding on a felucca at golden hour, and tracing stories in the carvings at Karnak and Philae. If you love history, photography, and immersive travel, Egypt delivers in every way.

We’d go back in a heartbeat—next time to linger longer in Luxor and chase more golden-hour light along the Nile. 🇪🇬

Top Tips for Visiting Egypt

✈️ Airports & Security Expect multiple security checks (bags + body) just to enter the airport. Random checks are common but usually quick.
🛍️ Vendors & Haggling Vendors are everywhere at tourist sites. A polite “no thank you” or “I already bought one” helps. Haggling is expected, and you’ll usually get a better deal by buying multiple items.
💰 Money Carry small bills/coins for tips and quick purchases. Bundling from one seller = cheaper prices.
🍽️ Food & Drinks Hotel breakfasts are basic but free. Bottled water is safest. Tour meals can get repetitive (lots of grilled chicken & rice 🥲) — splurge at a nice hotel restaurant for variety.
🛺 Transportation & Traffic Traffic is chaos: 3 lanes = 5 cars. Buses push through, pedestrians weave between cars. Hotel-arranged drivers or taxis are easiest for tourists.
🕌 Sites & Tickets Some tombs/temples need extra tickets (Tutankhamun, Nefertari). Photos may require fees or be banned. Sites sometimes close during services.
👥 Group Tours The right group makes a big difference — ours was fun, respectful, and flexible. Still plenty of time for independent exploring.