France August 11-21, 2024

August 11: A Rocky Start

Our trip was scheduled to begin at 9:55 AM on August 11. However, around 11:00 AM, we received a text informing us that our flight was delayed. Frustratingly, the delays kept piling up until, at 2:00 PM, the flight was officially canceled. After calling British Airways, we managed to rebook for a flight departing the next day at 10:51 AM—a small win in a less-than-ideal situation.

August 12–13: Journey to France

We arrived at the airport the following day and boarded our flight to Atlanta (ATL). The flight was uneventful, and we landed without any issues. For the next leg of our journey, we received a slight upgrade to Delta Comfort Plus, which was a nice perk—except the cabin lights were stuck on. Despite multiple attempts to reset them, they couldn’t be dimmed. Thankfully, I had a sleep mask and managed to get a few hours of rest.

Overall, the flight was smooth, and we even arrived 15 minutes early, landing in France at 11:45 AM on August 13. Passport control was surprisingly quick and simple: a quick scan of our passports in a machine, a stamp, and we were done in under five minutes.

After collecting our bags, we headed to pick up our rental car. Unfortunately, our arrival delay caused complications. Alamo canceled our reservation because we arrived more than two hours late—even though my friend had called twice to inform them. To make matters worse, we had already paid in full, but the attendant claimed there was nothing he could do. Frustrated, we rented a car through Hertz instead, but we had to sit in the rental car plaza lobby for about 30 minutes until the new reservation time began, as they couldn’t print the contract before then.

With our car finally secured, we attempted to grab lunch in Cannes. However, the city was bustling with activity. Traffic was insane, parking was nearly impossible to find, and the walking streets were packed with stores we could easily find back home. Feeling overwhelmed, we decided to skip Cannes and head toward our hotel instead.

A Change of Plans and a New Destination

On our way, we stopped at La Casa Restaurant Pizzeria in Aix-en-Provence. The pizza wasn’t the best I’ve ever had, but it hit the spot after such a long day. Refueled, we continued on the toll roads, making a few stops at plazas for restrooms and gas.

Given our delayed arrival, we decided to change our hotel to one closer to our location. We arrived at the ibis Budget Montpellier Nord around 8:30 PM. Navigating the area wasn’t the most driver-friendly experience, but after some trial and error, we managed to find the parking garage. It turned out that accessing it required a code, which we received after checking in at the front desk.

Once inside the room, we encountered another hiccup—it only had one bed, despite being booked for two. A quick trip to the lobby revealed the solution: the second bed was a Murphy bed cleverly hidden in the closet. Problem solved, we headed back upstairs, got situated, and finally called it a night.

August 14: A Day of History, Rain, and Sunflowers

We started the day early, hitting the road at around 8 AM. Since we had changed hotels the previous night for a shorter drive, we had a longer journey ahead. With two routes to choose from, we opted for the more scenic one, packed with interesting stops.

Our first destination was the Cité de Carcassonne, a stunning medieval town dating back to 100 BC and now a UNESCO World Heritage site. Known for its remarkably well-preserved fortifications, cobblestone streets, and rich history, the town felt like stepping back in time. A highlight was the Basilica of St. Nazaire and St. Celse, a masterpiece of medieval ecclesiastical architecture dating back to the 11th century. The intricate details of the church and its historical significance were awe-inspiring.

Walking through the town, we marveled at the original cobblestone streets and the old-world charm of the buildings, many of which now house shops and restaurants. One thing to note: no real meals are served until noon, so we settled for a sweet treat at Le Glacier. We tried their crêpes and glacee (ice cream). While not extraordinary and a bit overpriced, the service was much better than some reviews had suggested. The waitress was pleasant enough.

Before leaving, we explored the city’s impressive cemetery, accessible to visitors and well worth a look. Parking was straightforward early in the day but grew increasingly crowded as time passed.

Next Stop: Rainy Toulouse and a Delicious Meal

From Carcassonne, we drove to Toulouse in search of a proper lunch. Heavy rain followed us the entire way, making parking a challenge. We eventually found a spot and dashed through the rain to Marcello, an Italian restaurant. It was a fantastic find! The lasagna was some of the best I’ve had in years, served with a fresh, beautifully presented salad. The staff was warm and welcoming, though the smell of something burning upon entering was a bit of a downside (the server did apologize). If you’re in Toulouse and craving Italian, I’d highly recommend it.

Gouffre de Padirac: A Natural Wonder

After lunch, we headed to Gouffre de Padirac, a breathtaking natural chasm plunging 103 meters (338 feet) into the earth. It’s the gateway to an extensive underground cave network carved out by water over millions of years. Unfortunately, the line to enter was about 75 people deep, and with three more hours of driving ahead, we decided to skip the full experience. Instead, we peeked down the chasm from the top, which was still an incredible sight. Parking was easy, as some visitors had already left by the time we arrived, but it’s worth noting that this attraction likely requires patience, no matter the season.

Sunflower Fields, Small Towns, and McDonald’s

As we continued our drive, we passed fields of sunflowers—a dazzling and cheerful sight. We pulled over on a quiet road to take some photos, savoring the moment. The route also took us through a series of charming small towns, each with its own unique character.

Dinner was a quick stop at McDonald’s, a fun opportunity to compare its offerings to other countries. The French version was noticeably better in quality and even featured a pastry counter. It was also fast, which worked perfectly for our packed schedule.

Ending the Day: A Budget Stay

We arrived late at the Premiere Classe Poitiers Futuroscope - Chasseneuil, a no-frills budget hotel. The room was compact, resembling a cruise ship cabin, but it was clean and met our needs. The staff was friendly, and the ample free parking was a plus.

Before turning in for the night, we decided to cancel the following night’s accommodation and rebook something closer to Paris to better suit our plans. After a refreshing shower, we finally called it a day.

August 15: Exploring History, Nature, and Unexpected Delights

We woke up early and hit the road by 8:00 AM, ready for another day of adventure. Our first stop was Château de Villandry, a stunning Renaissance castle completed in 1536 by Jean le Breton, France’s Minister of Finance under King Francis I. Built atop an ancient medieval fortress, the château’s architecture is impressive, but it's the gardens that truly steal the show. Beautifully manicured and sprawling, the gardens alone make the visit worthwhile. The château offers convenient parking, and we arrived right when it opened, avoiding the crowds.

A Quick Stop at Grottes Pétrifiantes

Just a short drive away is Grottes Pétrifiantes, a set of fascinating limestone caves known for their petrifying springs. The natural process of calcium carbonate deposits over objects placed in the water gradually petrifies them, turning leaves, flowers, and even sculptures into unique limestone formations. Unfortunately, we arrived too late to join the tour, but the site’s easy-to-access parking made it a quick and convenient stop.

Bioparc de Doué-la-Fontaine: A Unique Zoo Experience

Next, we drove west to Bioparc de Doué-la-Fontaine, a zoological park nestled in ancient limestone quarries. This unique location allows for large animal enclosures and tunnels that visitors can walk through to get an up-close view. While the spacious enclosures are great for the animals, it meant some animals were harder to spot. Still, we enjoyed wandering the park and taking in the scenic views. We arrived around 11:00 AM and tried to grab lunch at Le Camp des Girafes, a dining area overlooking the giraffe enclosure. The restaurant didn’t open until noon, but the staff recommended making a reservation, which turned out to be a fantastic tip. We bypassed a long line and sat down to enjoy a simple but flavorful meal, with Indian-inspired dishes on the menu. Though the options were limited, it was a great dining experience, especially with the giraffes nearby.

Charming Towns and a Failed Food Quest

After lunch, we continued our journey, passing through the charming town of Montrichard. This quaint spot, with its pretty church, riverside beach, and peaceful atmosphere, was a pleasant surprise. We then made our way to Amboise, home to Leonardo da Vinci’s tomb. The town’s vibrant walking street, lined with cafés and shops, was bustling with activity. We tried to stop at two local food spots—Les Charonnes (a goat cheese producer) and Chocolaterie Max Vauché Bracieux—but unfortunately, both were closed for the Feast of the Assumption.

We continued on to Blois, where we tried to dine at Le Rendez Vous, only to find out after ordering drinks that they were not serving food at the moment. A bit disappointed, we sipped our drinks—a hot chocolate and espresso with caramel sauce—before heading to a grocery store inside a nearby mall to grab some beverages. Leaving the area proved more challenging than expected, as we ended up circling the same two roundabouts twice! However, this led us to an unexpected gem: Léon Seafood & Cocktails – Blois Vineuil. This seafood restaurant turned out to be the perfect solution to our hunger, offering fresh and delicious seafood. I opted for a two-course meal for €20, which included mussels—about 35 of them, to be exact! It was impossible to finish them all, but I was one happy camper.

A Cozy End to the Day at La Petite Salamandre

Our final stop for the day was a charming BnB, La Petite Salamandre, run by a lovely couple who were warm and accommodating. The room, styled like a tiny house, was perfect for our needs—super clean and cozy. We settled in quickly and fell asleep almost immediately, ready to rest after another eventful day.

August 16: A Day of Parisian Attractions and Hidden Gems

The following morning, we were treated to a buffet-style breakfast at 8:00 AM before hitting the road. We had purchased GoCity passes for Paris and had reserved a time at the Palace of Versailles for 1:00 PM, the earliest available. Along the way, we made a few stops at other GoCity pass locations.

Château de Rambouillet: A Historic Stop

Our first stop was the Château de Rambouillet, a historic castle located in the Île-de-France region, near Paris. Originally built as a medieval fortress in the 14th century, it was later transformed into a royal residence in the 18th century. King Francis I passed away here in 1547, and it became a popular hunting lodge for Louis XVI. The castle is known for its gardens, but after the grandeur of Château de Villandry the previous day, it didn't quite compare. The interior was underwhelming as well, but it has convenient parking with the first 30 minutes free. It’s worth a quick stop if you’re killing time, but it’s definitely skippable for those on a tight schedule.

Miniature France: A Fun, Family-Friendly Stop

Next, we visited Miniature France, a park dedicated to showcasing scaled-down replicas of France’s most famous landmarks and regions. Opened in 1991, the park features models of over 100 iconic sites, such as the Eiffel Tower, Mont Saint-Michel, and Château de Chambord. The park covers 5 hectares and offers a fun, interactive way to explore France’s architectural and cultural heritage. It also has a large parking lot, though there’s an additional €5 charge. The park was bustling with families, and it took us some time to see everything. Highlights included tiny operating trains and cars, making it a charming stop.

Versailles: The Palace and Gardens

After Miniature France, we headed to Versailles, the main attraction of the day. Thanks to their website, we easily found parking in one of the recommended lots, and we got lucky by finding a spot in the closest one. Upon arrival, we were greeted with chaos—multiple lines and crowds. We arrived about 30 minutes early, and while the lines were organized by timed entry, it was still a bit overwhelming. Pro tip: don’t forget a hat, umbrella, or water, as waiting in the sun isn’t the most pleasant experience. The palace itself was grand but crowded, and navigating the interior was difficult with so many people. The Hall of Mirrors and lavish gardens were impressive, but after all the waiting and crowds, it didn’t feel worth the effort. While it’s a must-see for many, I left with the sentiment of “seen it, done it, never again.”

Paris: Traffic-Free and Unexpected Calm

We descended into Paris expecting the usual complaints about traffic and crowded streets. However, we were shocked to find the streets eerily quiet as we drove north toward our hotel in La Défense. There was no traffic at all—just a stark contrast to the standstill we experienced in Cannes. We checked into 37 Lodge La Défense Courbevoie, a conveniently located hotel with its own underground parking. The room had a kitchenette and was spacious, though the beds were tiny twins that occasionally felt like they might swallow you up. The elevators were a bit quirky, with one attempting to repeatedly open its doors. Despite these small quirks, the staff was pleasant, and we had no complaints—except for the AC, which only allowed us to set it to a sweltering 33°C.

Aquarium de Paris and More Museums

After checking in, we booked an Uber and headed out to explore. Our first stop was the Aquarium de Paris, where we used our GoCity pass for entry. The aquarium was quite standard, though I enjoyed the jellyfish tanks the most. They also had a variety of sea creatures like sharks, pufferfish, stingrays, and koi. The place was well-organized, and though busy near the shark tank, it wasn’t overly crowded. Outside the aquarium, food trucks offered some quick bites—chicken gyoza and shrimp tempura—which were delicious and kept us fueled for the rest of the day.

We then walked to the Guimet Museum, dedicated to Asian art and culture. Founded in 1889, the museum houses one of the largest collections of Asian art outside of Asia. It was massive and filled with impressive artifacts, textiles, pottery, paintings, and sculptures from China, Japan, India, and Southeast Asia. The exterior of the building was equally impressive, with an ornate roof.

The City of Architecture and Heritage Museum: A Hidden Gem

The highlight of the day, for me, was the City of Architecture and Heritage Museum. This museum showcases detailed architectural models, casts, and reproductions of famous French buildings, including sections on Gothic cathedrals and modern urban development. The exhibits were vast and captivating, especially the massive church and building archways throughout the museum. As someone fascinated by ornate arches, I could’ve spent hours exploring this place.

Eiffel Tower and Museum Visits

Afterward, we passed by the Eiffel Tower, which had a quieter atmosphere due to the ongoing Olympics and Paralympics preparations. The streets around the tower were closed off, creating a perfect opportunity to snap some photos. We then made our way to the Museum of Quai Branly, where we discovered a temporary exhibit of Mexican art. The permanent exhibits, featuring indigenous tribal and ceremonial wear, masks, pottery, and artwork, were right up my alley. It was a brief but memorable visit, and I could’ve taken home almost everything in the museum.

Dinner and the Arc de Triomphe

We ended our day with a visit to the Arc de Triomphe, commissioned by Napoleon Bonaparte in 1806 and completed in 1836. While the traffic circle around the monument is chaotic, we were lucky to get some great photos after running across several lanes of traffic (don’t do this—there’s an underground walkway!). We didn’t have the energy to visit the tomb, so we snapped some pictures and caught an Uber back to our hotel.

Travel Stats and Final Thoughts for the day

We walked about 10 miles today, and despite the road closures and the slight intimidation of the public transportation system, we managed to get around fairly easily. The people we encountered were friendly, and we relied on Google Translate when needed. Traffic in Paris was minimal, and we were able to enjoy the city without the usual chaos.

August 17th was quite a day packed with Parisian experiences, rain or shine! 

We woke up to rain, but we were prepared with raincoats. We set out via Uber to Le Moulin de la Galette, where our GoCity pass offered macaroons and a hot beverage. Upon arrival, a staff member informed us that it would open in 15 minutes, and since we were using the GoCity pass, he set up a dry table for us and got we the goods. The macaroons and hot chocolate were nothing special, but free is always nice. After enjoying our treats, we headed to a parfum education and parfum-making workshop with the pass.

On our way, we passed the Moulin Rouge, founded in 1889 by Joseph Oller and Charles Zidler, with its iconic red windmill. It became famous for extravagant performances, including the risqué can-can dance.

Next, we arrived at Fragonard Boutique Francs Bourgeois, only to find out that the 9:40am workshop didn’t meet the minimum of 4 people. Fortunately, some people arrived early for the 10am session, so they let us join the earlier one. We toured the boutique and learned about the company’s history—Fragonard is one of the oldest perfume houses in France, founded in 1926 by Eugène Fuchs in Grasse. Named after the 18th-century French painter Jean-Honoré Fragonard, it has remained family-owned for generations. Afterward, we participated in a mini workshop where we made our own eau de toilette. The tour guide was engaging, and it ended by browsing their perfumes, purchasing a new scent with a discount. I highly recommended the experience as it taught me a lot about the parfum industry.

Next, we walked to the Paradox Museum, which was something I wanted to do in Vegas but didn't want to pay for. The museum featured optical illusion artwork and 3D art displays. While I didn’t find it extraordinary, I did have fun in rooms like the mirror tubes, clone table, and shadow cast room. The staff helped with taking photos, and we even got other visitors to snap some shots for us.

Afterward, we stopped for lunch at Le Royal Opéra. I tried salmon tartar with fries, but it turned out to be a lot of salmon. The restaurant had the classic French style with tables packed closely together, and despite not being busy, the staff tried to seat you right next to strangers. We politely asked for a table with space in between, and they accommodated.

With time to kill before our Louvre time slot, we popped into Musée des Arts décoratifs. It wasn't my favorite, but the museum had a lot of artifacts spanning various periods, showcasing decorative arts, furniture, ceramics, textiles, and more.

Then, we headed for the Louvre. While it was chaotic with long lines and crowded hallways, we wandered through the Egyptian, English, Italian, Roman, and French art collections. The Mona Lisa had a long line, and the room was crowded, so we opted to leave after 1.5 hours. It was a bit chaotic in most of the rooms and hallways, occasionally you'd find a nice solace of a quiet area and I really enjoyed these. I just think museums should be peaceful and enjoyable and the Louvre wasn't this for me. It was another check off the box places for me and I'll probably never return, which is sad in a way.

Leaving the Louvre, we encountered a petty cab driver who initially quoted €30 to get to Choco-Story Paris - Musée du Chocolat. However, once we arrived, the price turned out to be €30 per person, and the driver left us further from our destination. We learned our lesson and took a cab for €12 to the correct location. The museum offered an immersive experience, tracing the history of chocolate from ancient civilizations to modern production. Admission included a free cup of hot chocolate and unlimited chocolate samples throughout the museum. We indulged in the delicious chocolate and learned fascinating facts, such as how chocolate was once sold in Spanish pharmacies.

Next, we headed to O’Chateau for a cheese tasting, which included five cheeses from different French regions:

• Selle-sur-Cher: Produced in the Loire Valley in the late 19th century.

• Brie de Meaux: The "King of Cheeses," crowned at the Congress of Vienna in 1815.

• Comté: An artisanal cheese dating back to the 13th century.

• Cantal: One of France’s oldest cheeses, mentioned by the Roman philosopher Pliny.

• Fourme d'Ambert: Used as currency in the Middle Ages.

The tasting also included wine and grape juice. It was a great way to stay dry and try new cheeses with ties to the region.

Our next stop was the Notre-Dame Cathedral, which is under restoration after the 2019 fire. Despite the scaffolding, the front of the cathedral remained impressive, and we were able to take photos from the bleacher-style seating that had been set up. We attempted to find Point Zéro des Routes de France but suspected it was behind the construction area.

We then walked to the Conciergerie, but it was closed, requiring advanced reservations on our pass. We had a choice between visiting Conciergerie or Sainte-Chapelle, so we made a reservation for Sainte-Chapelle at 5:30 pm. After standing in a short line, we went through rigorous security checks before entering. Sainte-Chapelle, a Gothic-style royal chapel, is famous for its stunning stained glass windows, which depict biblical scenes. The windows were breathtaking, especially the upper level, where 1,113 scenes tell the story of mankind, from Creation to Christ’s Resurrection. The Rose Window beautifully depicts St. John's vision of the Apocalypse.

Afterward, we hurried to the Panthéon, only to find that it had already closed, even though the GoCity app stated you could enter until 6:15 pm. Nevertheless, we admired the exterior. Originally built as a church, it was later transformed into a mausoleum for notable figures such as Voltaire, Rousseau, Victor Hugo, and Marie Curie.

Our final stop was Montparnasse Tower. We had only about 40 minutes to spare, so we quickly ate dinner at Le Bouchon Lyonnais, where we had a seared tuna steak with mixed vegetables, which I loved. We then dashed across the street to Montparnasse Tower, one of the tallest buildings in Paris. After going through security, you were sent to the 57th floor for panoramic views. Despite the rain, the views were amazing, and it was a fantastic way to end our day.

After a busy, fulfilling day, we took a cab back to your hotel to shower and rest. It was another memorable day in Paris, full of adventure, delicious food, and beautiful sights.

August 18 was an eventful day filled with history, exploration, and delicious meals.

Today was one of the highlights of my trip, and I’d been eagerly anticipating the day’s itinerary. We had a leisurely start, checking out of our hotel around 8:30 AM, and headed to the heart of Paris. Our first stop was finding parking near the Olympic Boutique. After securing a spot, we strolled a few blocks to a charming restaurant, La Pagode de Cos, for breakfast. Nestled in a luxurious hotel, the outdoor garden seating created the perfect ambiance. I ordered eggs Benedict and a pastry—both delicious. The staff was attentive, and many spoke English, which added to the experience.

After breakfast, we wandered up Avenue des Champs-Élysées in search of souvenirs but came up empty-handed. Returning to the Olympic Boutique, we picked up a few mementos for friends and family, though the store was packed. The staff was friendly, even teaching us the correct pronunciation of the Olympics mascot.

Next, we drove across Paris to visit the Catacombs, but not before making a quick detour to the Montparnasse Cemetery. Established in 1824, the cemetery was part of a city-wide plan to address overcrowding in Paris's burial grounds. It’s the final resting place of notable figures like Jean-Paul Sartre, Simone de Beauvoir, Man Ray, and Samuel Beckett. The peaceful atmosphere and historical significance made it a worthwhile stop.

The Catacombs were the day’s main attraction, and tickets were hard to come by—I had to book through a third-party site at a hefty price. But it was absolutely worth it. The Catacombs were created in the late 18th century to resolve overcrowded cemeteries in Paris, with bones relocated to former limestone quarries beneath the city. They hold the remains of about six million people and stretch for over 200 miles, though only a small section is open to visitors.

The experience begins with a descent down 130 steps into dimly lit tunnels. The walk spans about a kilometer, with the most striking section displaying bones arranged in intricate patterns along the walls. Equipped with an audio guide, we learned about the Catacombs’ history and how engineers stabilized the tunnels to prevent collapse. It was fascinating and eerie all at once. After the tour, we exited into a gift shop where I couldn’t resist splurging.

We then crossed the street to Le Comptoir des Catacombes for a late lunch. I ordered chicken with mushrooms, served with creamy mashed potatoes—it was fantastic. Re-energized, we set off for Bourges.

Arriving in Bourges, we faced a hiccup: the hotel’s lobby was closed, and the outdoor key dispenser wasn’t working. After some back-and-forth with Trip.com, we were relocated to The Originals City, Hôtel Le Berry, Bourges. It was a decent hotel with free street parking, a comfortable queen bed, and a full-size pullout couch.

With some daylight left, we ventured out to explore Bourges. Our first stop was the Monument aux morts de la guerre d'Algérie, a memorial honoring those who died during the Algerian War (1954–1962), a pivotal conflict that led to Algeria’s independence. Nearby, we strolled through Prés Fichaux Garden, known for its perfectly manicured shrubs and vibrant flower beds.

The highlight of Bourges was undoubtedly the cathedral. Bourges Cathedral is a magnificent Gothic masterpiece built between the late 12th and early 13th centuries. Dedicated to Saint Stephen, it’s celebrated for its soaring architecture, intricate sculptures, and stunning stained glass windows that date back to the 13th century. The cathedral is enormous, with an awe-inspiring presence and beautiful gardens surrounding it. While we were there, a local festival with dancing added to the charm.

Walking through Bourges felt like stepping back in time. Once a major Roman settlement known as Avaricum, it later became a medieval hub of politics and religion. Many medieval buildings have been preserved, and the streets are lined with cafes and historical markers. For dinner, we chose Le Marmiton Berrichon, where I enjoyed a hearty platter of meats, warm cheese, potatoes, and salad. I ended the meal with a unique mint chocolate chip ice cream that had a strong menthol flavor—not what I expected but still good.

We returned to the hotel, passing Église Saint-Bonnet de Bourges, before calling it a night. It was a packed day, but every moment was unforgettable.

August 19 Diverse experiences, from historical sites to urban exploration, with a bit of a rough end.

We began our day with a detour to the middle of nowhere: the Château d’Urfé in Saint-Marcel-d’Urfé. Built in the 12th century, this medieval stronghold of the d’Urfé family was later renovated during the Renaissance and served as inspiration for Honoré d’Urfé’s famous novel, L’Astrée. Although abandoned in the 17th century and further damaged during the French Revolution, the ruins remain a protected historic site today.

The setting was absolutely stunning, with rolling hills framing the castle. We explored the ruins freely, climbing the towers for breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. Restoration work was underway, with workers on-site, but we were still allowed to wander. The drive to get there was an adventure of its own—a winding, narrow road just wide enough for one and a half cars. Thankfully, we didn’t encounter anyone coming the other way, or it would have been a tight squeeze!

After our detour, we made our way to Lyon. Parking near Rue Saint-Jean, a popular shopping street in Vieux Lyon, we grabbed lunch at Le Gallion. They offered a three-course special that I couldn’t resist, and every bite was delicious.

From there, we embarked on a challenging but rewarding uphill trek to the Jardín de Rosaire for an incredible aerial view of the city. The climb was no joke—my calves were burning!—but the payoff was worth it. At the top, we reached the magnificent Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière. Built between 1872 and 1896, this UNESCO World Heritage Site is a testament to Lyon’s gratitude and faith following its survival during the Franco-Prussian War. The basilica’s intricate architecture, stunning stained glass, and multi-level design make it one of the most beautiful churches I’ve seen anywhere in the world. For those not up for the hike, there’s parking and a bus route near the top—something I wish I’d known earlier!

On our way back down the hill, we stopped at the Gallo-Roman site of Lyon Fourvière, a remarkable collection of ruins from the ancient Roman city of Lugdunum, founded in 43 BCE. Once the capital of Roman Gaul, the site features the oldest Roman theater in France, a smaller odeon, and the Temple of Cybele. Exploring this free UNESCO site was like stepping back in time, and the sheer scale of the ruins was awe-inspiring.

We passed by several churches, including Saint Irenee, Vieux Lyon Cathedral, and Cathedral Saint-Jean, as we returned to Rue Saint-Jean for some shopping before continuing to our overnight stop in Valence.

Valence itself isn’t much of a tourist destination, but we stayed there to break up our drive to Cannes. Unfortunately, our accommodations at Première Classe Valence Sud were less than stellar. The room was unclean, the beds were uncomfortable, the walls were paper-thin, and the entire place had a strange smell. To top it all off, the air conditioning unit leaked all night, soaking one of our suitcases.

In an attempt to salvage the evening, we visited Decathlon to shop for some of my favorite athletic wear before heading to dinner at L’Art Terre. While the outdoor seating area had potential, strong winds and lackluster service soured the experience. It felt like the staff drew straws to determine who had to wait on us! The food was mediocre at best, so we cut our losses and ended the night back at the hotel, ready to move on to brighter days.

August 20:  unexpected adventures, great food, and some spontaneous exploration.

Our day began with an early start and a short drive to Grasse, the world’s perfume capital. Parking was a breeze, and the lot was conveniently located near the charming Grasse sign, decorated with perfume-themed cardboard samples. The town itself was enchanting, with streets shaded by pink umbrellas and a constant, subtle scent of perfume lingering in the air.

Grasse is a haven for perfume lovers, with countless shops offering unique creations. I couldn’t resist picking up a new fragrance at a boutique called Le Parfumoir de Grasse. After some shopping, we decided to grab lunch at an outdoor café called Le Margoum. I opted for a three-course meal that included an egg roll-style appetizer, a fried chicken cutlet with salad and fries, and ice cream for dessert—or so I thought.

Unfortunately, what started as a pleasant meal turned awkward due to visible family drama among the staff. It seemed to be a family-run establishment, and we witnessed a heated conflict, presumably between a mother and her sons. Despite one son’s attempts to serve us, he was reprimanded, and we were left waiting for quite some time. Ultimately, we decided to skip dessert, pay the bill, and leave.

After a bit more wandering, we headed to our hotel for check-in. The room was spacious and comfortable—a welcome change from the previous night’s accommodations. Once settled, we set off for Villefranche-sur-Mer, a picturesque coastal town.

The drive along the coastline was breathtaking, with stunning views of the Mediterranean. In Villefranche-sur-Mer, we explored the Chapelle Saint-Pierre, admired the medieval Rue Obscure, and visited the Eglise Saint-Michel. The Rue Obscure is particularly fascinating—it’s an underground stone passage dating back to the 13th century, originally used as protection during sieges. It’s a short walk but steeped in history.

We strolled along a lively shopping street before sitting down for dinner at Les Palmiers. As we ate, we began discussing the Monte Carlo souvenirs we had seen earlier. A quick search revealed that Monaco was just a 45-minute drive away and wouldn’t add any time to our return trip. Visiting the second-smallest country in the world sounded too good to pass up, so we quickly paid our bill, hopped in the car, and set off.

Arriving in Monte Carlo was surreal. Crossing into Monaco is subtle, but entering Monte Carlo is unmistakable—it’s luxury at its finest. Despite some traffic, parking was easy to find, and we made our way toward the iconic Monte Carlo Casino.

In our excitement, we accidentally entered the neighboring casino instead. Realizing our mistake after going through security, we decided to explore a bit, use the facilities, and then head to the correct building. While access to the actual casino was limited, we were able to admire the grand lobby.

We continued to explore Monte Carlo, taking in the city’s opulent atmosphere and enjoying the marina views from an overlook. A highlight was seeing the famous Fairmont Hairpin turn, the slowest point in any Formula 1 race. It was thrilling to watch cars navigate the curve, with some drivers clearly renting sports cars just to experience driving the F1 track.

As the evening ended, we made our way back to the hotel, feeling accomplished after spontaneously adding another country to our trip. It was the perfect way to close out an incredible day.

August 21 Goodbye France...till next time

Our last day was uneventful but bittersweet. We returned the rental car and caught our flight home, marking the end of an incredible journey. While it was nice to be back, I couldn’t help but feel a bit sad—France had exceeded all my expectations.

From the kind people we met to the breathtaking sights we experienced, this trip was nothing short of amazing. France has left a lasting impression, and I’m already dreaming of returning someday.