April 25th–26th: Las Vegas → Guatemala City → Antigua

Departure Day — April 25th

We headed to the airport around 5 PM only to find out our flight was delayed. Check-in was smooth, and we had one of the nicest airline employees I’ve encountered in recent memory, which immediately took some of the stress out of traveling.

After checking in, we headed to the lounge to kill the extra hour and a half. Boarding was easy, and we lucked out with an empty middle seat on the short flight to LAX—a rare and very welcome win.

Layover at LAX

Once we landed, we had 2.5 hours to kill in a tiny terminal. We found a restaurant for dinner, but the real goal was just passing the time. Our next flight was slightly delayed and on a much older plane, but the ride was smooth.

I managed to sleep in hour-long intervals for about three hours, which helped because we arrived in Guatemala City at 5:40 AM the next morning.

Arrival in Guatemala — April 26th

Immigration, Customs & Car Rental Adventures

Immigration and customs were smooth and fast—no issues at all. Then we made our way to the car rental counter, which was empty when we arrived. After texting the number listed, a guy showed up within 10 minutes.

That’s where the fun ended. The car rental turned into an unexpected wallet hit:

• The required “insurance” doubled the cost of the rental.

• Paying by credit card added another ~33% fee (completely ridiculous).

• We were also told that the insurance would not cover driving to Belize, but apparently driving to Honduras, Costa Rica, or other less-safe Central American countries was fine. 🤷‍♀️

After feeling slightly held hostage by the fees, we finally got our car and drove about an hour to Antigua.

Morning in Antigua

We arrived at our hotel, La Sin Ventura, around 8 AM. Since check-in wasn’t until 3 PM, we dropped our bags and headed straight out to explore the city.

Antigua’s Central Park (Parque Central) is the heart of the city, and like many Guatemalan towns, it’s where all the action happens. Street vendors, cafés, and shops surround the plaza, making it a great first stop.

Breakfast at Café Condesa ☕🥞

We found Café Condesa, located right off the square. I ordered the cornmeal pancakes with brown butter sauce and bacon, which were excellent. The café has open-air dining and a small plaza lined with boutique shops—perfect for easing into Antigua life.

Shopping & First Impressions

After breakfast, we wandered into El Mercadito, a tourist-friendly market filled with souvenirs, clothing, and handmade goods. It was definitely more of a tourist trap, but in hindsight, it offered the best prices.

A little tip:

• Best deals → street stalls & indoor markets

• Higher prices → brick-and-mortar stores lining the main streets

I didn’t buy anything at first, but I later came back and scored a handmade blouse for a friend for Q250—the best price I found.

Landmarks & Historic Sites

Santa Catalina Arch

Built in 1694 for nuns to cross from their convent without entering the street, the Santa Catalina Arch has become one of Antigua’s most photographed landmarks. The clock tower was added in the 19th century, and today it’s an iconic symbol of Antigua’s colonial charm.

Iglesia de La Merced

Founded in 1548 and rebuilt in 1767 after earthquakes, this church is one of the most ornate and striking in Antigua. Its Baroque-style façade is covered in intricate stucco designs, and inside, the altarpiece is absolutely stunning.

Templo Santa Teresa de Jesús

Established in the 17th century as part of a Carmelite convent, this site offers a peaceful stop while walking through the historic district.

Ermita de los Dolores del Cerro

An 18th-century pilgrimage site, this small church was used for meditation and prayer in Antigua’s early religious history.

Church of Candelaria Ruins

Originally built in the early 18th century, this church was severely damaged in the 1773 earthquakes and remains partially in ruins, adding a hauntingly beautiful touch to Antigua’s historic landscape.

Casa de la Ruina Santa Rosa

Part of a 17th-century convent, this site was also partially destroyed by the 1773 earthquakes, leaving striking ruins you can still see today.

We tried to visit Convento e Iglesia de Santo Domingo, but it seems to be under restoration behind closed walls.

Lunch at Clio’s Antigua 🐟🍓

After walking nearly 5 miles on little sleep, we stopped for lunch at Clio’s Antigua. I ordered the seabass carpaccio, which was fresh and amazing, paired with a berry smoothie—refreshing and perfect for the humid weather.

Relaxation Stop — Express Wellness Spa 💆‍♀️

Earlier in the day, we’d been handed fliers for Express Wellness Spa, so we decided to get massages. We bartered the price down to Q250 each for a 70-minute session. It was exactly what we needed after hours of walking in the heat.

Checking Into La Sin Ventura 🛏️

After our massages, we walked back to La Sin Ventura to finally check in. The hotel was clean, secure, and conveniently located, with parking nearby for Q40/day. The downside? Our room was up three flights of stairs, which was rough after the early flight and long day.

Dinner at La Fonda de la Calle Real 🍲

For dinner, we chose La Fonda de la Calle Real, which opened in 1975 to preserve traditional Guatemalan cuisine. I ordered a special occasion Guatemalan stew—a tomato-based dish with chicken, beef, and pork slowly cooked in banana leaves. It came with a corn tamale, rice, and tortillas, and it was incredible.

Early Night 🌙

By the time we finished dinner, jet lag and exhaustion had officially set in. We were back in our room by 7:30 PM and immediately passed out. There’s no A/C, but the temperature dropped enough to sleep with the windows open—until a lively midnight conversation started outside our room. Luckily, pure exhaustion won, and we were back asleep quickly.

April 27: Antigua → Lake Atitlán → Xela (Quetzaltenango)

This day was… weird. We had big plans for Lake Atitlán and Xela, but between foggy weather, washed-out roads, and hidden gems behind closed doors, it turned into an unexpected mix of detours, surprises, and highlights.

Scenic Viewpoints… or Not 😅

Our goal was to see Mirador Mario Montenegro, located on the southern side of Panajachel. Unfortunately, one of the roads was completely washed out, forcing us to backtrack and reroute to Lake Atitlán via the northern approach into Panajachel.

Plan B: Mirador al Lago de Atitlán y Volcanes (Atitlán, Tolimán, and San Pedro) near Aldea Churunel.

• The fog was so thick that we couldn’t see anything—not even the lake.

• The turnoff for the site was nearly impossible to locate with such low visibility.

• The roads aren’t built for easy U-turns, so after circling a bit, we gave up and headed straight for Panajachel.

Panajachel: Calle Santander & Lake Views 🌿

We parked near Calle Santander, the main shopping street in Panajachel, and wandered toward the lake. Even though the fog muted the views, the lakeside vibe was still peaceful.

Breakfast at Posada Don Rodrigo ☕

We stopped at Posada Don Rodrigo, a charming restaurant with a second-floor terrace overlooking the lake. I ordered:

• Homemade yogurt with granola & honey

• A side of bread with fresh jam

The food was simple but fresh and delicious, and the service was excellent—definitely recommend if you’re looking for a relaxing breakfast with views.

Atitlán Nature Reserve 🦋🌉 (Q80 per person)

Since the weather was working against us, we looked for Plan C and found the Atitlán Nature Reserve, which ended up being the highlight of our time at the lake.

The reserve has several short hiking trails, each offering something different:

• 🐒 Wildlife Trail → A small area with monkeys and coatis

• 🌊 Waterfall Trail → Four suspension bridges, including one directly in front of a waterfall—tiny adrenaline rush, but fun!

• 🦋 Butterfly Dome → Filled with hundreds of butterflies flying around lush plants

We spent about 1.5 hours here, and it completely saved our time at Lake Atitlán despite the weather.

Arrival in Quetzaltenango (Xela) 🏙

After leaving Lake Atitlán, we drove to Quetzaltenango, also known as Xela. First impression? The city looks a little gritty and chaotic on the outside, but behind hidden doors and courtyards are incredible restaurants, cafés, and gardens.

We stayed in the historic center at Hotel Uxlanik.

• The room: Clean but basic, nothing fancy.

• Parking: A bit chaotic. The front desk directed us to a gated area around the block but never opened it, so we ended up finding a street spot near the entrance, which was fine in the end.

Café Museo La Luna 🍫🍔

Once settled, we headed to Café Museo La Luna, a chocolate café that ended up being one of our favorite stops of the day.

• Our server was fantastic—friendly, knowledgeable, and fluent in English.

• We split a burger that was cooked perfectly.

• I ordered a mocha with chocolate ice cream and oh my gosh… amazing.

The café has a hidden garden patio filled with plants—don’t let the simple exterior fool you. I almost skipped this place, but I’m glad we didn’t.

Central America Park & Quetzaltenango Cathedral ⛪

We walked a few blocks to Parque Centroamérica (Central America Park), developed in the 19th century. It’s a lively hub surrounded by beautiful architecture.

The main highlight here is the Quetzaltenango Cathedral:

• Originally constructed in 1535

• Features a blend of colonial and neoclassical styles

• The 19th-century façade was built in front of the original 16th-century structure, which you can still see behind it

Missed Stop: Trama Textiles 🧵

We wanted to visit Trama Textiles, but unfortunately, it was closed. If you’re in Xela, I highly recommend checking it out—it’s a women-run cooperative supporting Mayan weavers, many of whom are widows supporting their families.

Cementerio General ⚰️🌺 (East Gate)

This was hands-down one of the most striking stops of the day.

Cementerio General is a 19th-century cemetery known for its:

• Elaborate mausoleums in neoclassical, Gothic, and modern styles

• Intricate sculptures and colorful tiles

• Significance during Day of the Dead, when families decorate graves with flowers, food, and music

The cemetery is massive and vibrant, and you could easily spend hours wandering its pathways. We had to navigate around a funeral procession, but it was absolutely worth the visit.

Chocolate San Sebastián 🍫🥪

We ended the day at Chocolate San Sebastián, another hidden-gem café tucked behind an unmarked door where you have to ring a bell to get in. Inside, there’s a charming garden courtyard with fruit trees, flowers, and plenty of seating.

I ordered hot chocolate (because, obviously) and a panini. It was cozy, relaxed, and the perfect way to end the evening before heading back to the hotel just after sunset.

April 28: Quetzaltenango → Cobán

We got an early start on the road for a six-hour drive from Xela to Cobán. It was a long day of potholes, detours, and unexpected surprises—but it ended at one of the prettiest nature preserves of the trip.

The Drive to Cobán 🚗

The first part of the drive was a bit rough, with potholes and uneven roads, but eventually, we made it onto a smooth highway with minimal issues—except for one random patch of rough gravel that slowed us down.

Along the way, we encountered two unexpected police detours. We were forced to leave the main route, but thanks to Google Maps, we were rerouted quickly and it didn’t affect our ETA. We still have no idea why the detours happened, but welcome to Guatemala!

Breakfast Stop: Rancho Grande 🥞🐉

Midway through the drive, we stopped at Rancho Grande: Hotel, Restaurante y Turicentro, a quirky little roadside resort that looked like it had seen better days but still had charm.

• They had a pool with a dragon slide 🐲 (definitely cool but badly in need of a new paint job).

• We pulled up to a gated entrance, and someone came out to let us in.

• Breakfast: We ordered an Americano plate—eggs, fresh fruit, and what I can only describe as a pancake/waffle hybrid. It was simple, good, and very cheap.

After breakfast, we continued the scenic drive and eventually arrived in Chijul around 1 PM.

Arriving at the Nature Preserve 🌿

Our accommodations for the night were inside a nature preserve near Chijul, and we couldn’t check in until 3 PM. Luckily, they let us park and explore the grounds while we waited.

This place was unexpectedly beautiful—a hidden gem we didn’t know we needed:

• 🌊 River hideaways → Multiple secluded spots along the water

• 🏝 Swimming area → With an island and diving platform

• 🦌 Deer reserve → Peaceful, quiet, and shaded

• 🥾 Hiking trails → Ranging from easy walks to steep, vertical climbs

We tried every trail except the “Extremo Trail” since it didn’t seem to lead anywhere worthwhile on the map. It was the perfect way to stretch our legs after a long drive.

On-Site Restaurant & Meals 🍽️

The property has a small on-site restaurant, which we used for both lunch and dinner:

• 🥗 Lunch → I ordered the enchiladas, which were flavorful and fresh.

• 🥩 Dinner → We tried the special Puyaso Coulotte, which requires a one-hour prep time but was worth the wait.

The service was great—the waiters were friendly and patient.

Evening in the Preserve 🌅

After dinner, we headed outside, hoping to catch a sunset view. Unfortunately, fog and dense tree coverage blocked most of it, but the peaceful setting more than made up for it.

Later, we opened our window briefly to listen to a thunderstorm rolling in—it was one of those cozy, grounding travel moments.

The Downsides 😬

While the property was beautiful, the hotel experience had a few challenges:

• The beds were extremely firm (borderline rock-hard).

• There was no ventilation—no fan, no A/C.

• Windows had no screens, meaning if you opened them, bugs came inside.

Not ideal, but with the sound of rain outside and exhaustion setting in, we managed to fall asleep pretty quickly.

April 29: Cobán → Río Dulce

Today was all about caves, adventure, and sweat. We left Cobán early and made our way toward Grutas de Lanquín, a fascinating natural cave system tucked deep in Guatemala’s lush highlands, before continuing on toward Río Dulce.

Grutas de Lanquín 🪨💧

The Grutas de Lanquín are massive limestone caves formed over millions of years, known for:

• Dramatic stalactites and stalagmites

• An underground river running through the system

• Sacred significance to the Q’eqchi’ Maya people, who still consider the caves an important spiritual site

The drive there was smooth and uneventful, and the roads were in good condition—always a welcome surprise in Guatemala.

Arriving & Getting a Guide

We arrived just before 8:00 AM and met Carlos, a local guide who works for donations.

• Tip: You need a guide unless you have serious climbing experience and plan to spend the entire day exploring the deeper sections of the cave.

• Without one, you’re likely to get lost or stuck—there’s no real signage inside.

Inside the Cave 🌿💡

The adventure starts with a short walk from the parking area to the entrance, followed by a stair climb that brings you into the main chamber. From there, things get serious:

• 🧗 Bouldering Required → This is not an easy stroll like many U.S. caves. You’ll be climbing, balancing, and pulling yourself up over slippery rocks.

• 🚫 Accessibility Note → If you have mobility issues, this is not a safe activity—there’s no “gentle” path.

• 🔦 Lighting → The cave is dark. Bring a headlamp or flashlight; don’t rely on the limited light at the entrance.

• 🥵 Humidity Warning → It’s HOT and HUMID inside. Expect to sweat. Wear breathable clothes and bring water.

• ✋ Hands-On → Unlike U.S. caves, you’re allowed (and often required) to grab walls and rocks for leverage.

• 🪨 Formations → Inside, you’ll see incredible shapes carved by nature—our guide pointed out formations that resembled broccoli, animals, and abstract sculptures.

For thrill-seekers, there’s also a “longer, more extreme route” deeper into the cave system. Be warned:

• It requires bigger climbs and jumping from rock to rock.

• It’s not for beginners and can be dangerous without proper gear and guidance.

The Drive from Hell: Lanquín → Río Dulce 🚗💀

From Lanquín, we had three options to get to Río Dulce:

1. Backtrack to Cobán and take the main highways

2. Go far north, then loop back south

3. Take the “direct” route

Spoiler alert: Never choose the direct route.

Lunch at Rivera del Río Cahabón 🌮

The drive started out innocent enough, and we stopped in a small town advertising Rivera del Río Cahabón for lunch.

• I had tacos and a horchata, and they were delicious—this stop was the smartest decision we made all day.

47 KM of Pure Nonsense 🪨

After lunch, the road quickly deteriorated into the worst road I have ever been on:

• Deep potholes

• Loose gravel and huge rocks

• Massive divots and trenches

• Steep inclines where our intermediate SUV nearly didn’t make it up

Every time we thought about turning back, the road would briefly improve, so we stayed on it… only for it to get worse again.

Eventually, we finished the 47 km nightmare and celebrated making it to what Google Maps called a “highway.” Unfortunately, the “highway” was torn-up gravel—less terrifying than before, but still not great.

After another 10 km, we hit glorious pavement—🙌—only for it to disappear again into yet another gravel stretch before finally, blessedly, hitting smooth roads into Río Dulce.

Quick Detour: Finca El Paraíso 🌊♨️

Before arriving in Río Dulce, we tried to stop at Cataratas de Aguas Termales - Finca El Paraíso, a natural hot waterfall.

Getting there was… interesting. The town had animals wandering freely, kids running around everywhere (some without clothes), and chaotic streets. When we finally reached the falls, we discovered they were closed.

After laughing at our luck, we headed straight to Río Dulce.

Arrival in Río Dulce 🛶

Río Dulce is a river town that feels laid-back but lively. As we were navigating the narrow, winding streets toward the water, a local man approached us and offered help. At first, we hesitated, but he ended up saving the day:

• Guided us to secure overnight parking

• Arranged a private boat tour (500Q — probably overpriced, but worth it)

• Contacted our hotel for a boat pickup from the dock

Private Boat Tour 🐢🦜

Before heading to the hotel, we took the boat out on the river:

• Explored Lago de Izabal

• Passed the Castle of San Felipe de Lara, a 17th-century Spanish fort built to defend against pirates

• Floated past Turtle Island 🐢

• Saw a bird sanctuary island filled with egrets and herons

Hotel Casa Perico 🌿🛏️

After the boat tour, we were picked up at the dock by our hotel’s boat taxi and headed to Hotel Casa Perico.

The hotel is a cabana-style property set on the water, surrounded by mangroves and nature.

• Rooms have mosquito netting over the beds and mesh screens on the windows

• Hot, humid night → ceiling fan + mini fan = lifesaver

• The room was spacious, clean, and peaceful

After one of the longest, most exhausting drives of the trip, we finally settled into bed listening to the sounds of the jungle.

April 30: Guatemala City → Belize(ish) → Flores

Today was… an unexpected adventure. The plan was to cross into Belize, spend some time there, and then head to Flores later in the week. Instead, we hit a closed border, scrambled for new plans, and ended up in Flores two days early.

Early Start: Boat to Shore 🛶

We woke up early and caught a 6:45 AM boat back to the mainland from our hotel. Thankfully, our car was still safe in the parking lot (always a relief). We handed over our parking ticket, loaded up, and began the drive toward the southern border crossing into Belize.

Heading Toward Belize 🇬🇹➡️🇧🇿

The first part of the drive started off great—smooth roads, minimal traffic—but then turned into 15 km of rough dirt roads before we arrived at a Guatemalan military checkpoint.

• The guard checked our passports and waved us through toward the border gate.

• We met another Guatemalan border officer, who warned us the rental car could be an issue. We explained the rental company told us it was fine to enter Belize.

• He shrugged, said okay, and sent us onward.

We assumed we were good to go… until we reached the actual Belize border.

Surprise: The Border Was Closed 🚫

We were met by a Belizean border worker who looked shocked we’d even made it that far. He explained:

• The border we chose was closed and had been for some time.

• If we crossed, we’d be entering illegally, which would make getting back out nearly impossible.

He was kind enough to:

• Let us use his WiFi to research other options

• Explain there were two other possible border crossings

The problem?

• One was 3.5 hours away and required a boat ferry

• The other was 4.5 hours away via the western crossing

• Either option would eat up the entire day

At this point, we had a decision to make…

Pivoting to Flores 🗺️

Instead of wasting the day trying to reach Belize, we decided to scrap our original plan and head straight to Flores—two days earlier than scheduled.

We contacted our hotel, and the staff was incredibly accommodating, allowing us to move our reservation up so we could check in that evening.

Lunch Stop: Restaurante El Mirador 🦐🥤

On the way to Flores, we stopped at Restaurante El Mirador:

• The views weren’t spectacular, but the restaurant itself was nice

• The staff was super friendly

• I had langostine-style shrimp and fresh fruit juice—both amazing

• Bonus: They accept credit cards at the correct exchange rate (~Q7 = USD $1), which was huge since we were running low on quetzales

Finding Cash 💸

Since our plan to exit Guatemala fell through, we needed more cash than we’d planned for.

Tip: In Guatemala, ATMs are often marked as Cajero 5B, ATM 5B, or just 5B.

• We found one inside a supermarket in a larger town along the way

• Fee: Q50 per withdrawal

• Definitely worth stocking up if you’re heading to remote areas

Attempted Detour: Sitio Arqueológico El Chal 🏛️

We also tried to locate Sitio Arqueológico El Chal, a small Mayan archaeological site. Google Maps failed us—the pinned location was way off, and although we spotted a large blue sign along the road, there were no additional markers after driving quite a while. After some back-and-forth, we gave up and returned to the main road.

Arriving in Flores 🌅

We finally reached Flores and checked into Hotel Amina. The hotel doesn’t have a traditional check-in desk, but we spotted a woman entering, knocked, and she kindly got us settled in.

Hotel Amina Highlights:

• Rooms are huge

• Beds are comfortable

• Air conditioning = lifesaver after a hot day

Dinner at Achiote 🍝🌽

For dinner, we walked across the street to Achiote, located inside Hotel Isla de Flores.

• The restaurant has A/C, which was amazing

• I ordered spicy chicken pasta and elote

• The food was just okay, but it hit the spot after a long day

Reworking the Plan 🗒️

Over dinner, we sat down and brainstormed new options for the next couple of days. We decided to:

• Stay one extra night in Flores

• Confirmed payment and arrangements with the hotel

• Called it an early night to prepare for a busy next day

Bonus Stop: Petencito Zoo 🐒🌿 (Flores Arrival Day Highlight)

After deciding to skip Belize and reroute to Flores, we made a spontaneous stop at Petencito Zoo—and it ended up being one of the saving graces of the day.

This zoo is small but unique and full of personality:

• 🌉 Swing Bridge → A little wobbly, a little thrilling, and super fun

• 🐗 Wild hogs casually roaming around the grounds

• 🦜 A mix of local wildlife and rescued animals

• 🛍️ Vendors selling cold drinks and souvenirs, which were very welcome in the heat

After the morning’s border fiasco, this unexpected stop was a nice reset and gave us time to stretch our legs, cool down, and just enjoy something low-key before continuing to Flores.

May 1: Flores → Tikal → Back to Flores

This day was one of the biggest highlights of the trip. We explored the legendary Mayan ruins of Tikal, shopped the colorful streets of Flores Island, indulged in milkshakes with a view, and capped the evening with a sunset dinner on the lake.

Early Start: Road to Tikal 🛣️🌿

We left Flores at 6 AM and headed toward Tikal National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and one of the most important archaeological treasures in Central America.

• History Snapshot:
  Tikal was a Mayan superpower between 200–900 AD, expanding from a small settlement into a massive city with towering temples. After centuries of dominance, it mysteriously declined by 900 AD and was eventually abandoned. Today, it’s considered one of the most impressive Mayan sites in the world.

The drive was smooth with paved roads and clear signage.

Tickets & Entry 🎟️

• First, you’ll stop at a checkpoint before reaching the park to buy your tickets.

• After driving another 8–10 km, there’s a second checkpoint where your tickets are verified.

• We arrived early enough to beat most crowds and quickly parked near the entrance.

Exploring Tikal 🏛️🌿

We opted to skip hiring a guide—one approached us and quoted $60 USD for a private tour, but since we’ve done guided Mayan ruins before, we decided to explore on our own.

• Time Spent: ~1.5 hours wandering the site

• Crowds: Manageable early, but big tour groups arrive fast—walk past them if you want quiet trails

• Accessibility: Not handicap-friendly

• Expect lots of tree roots, uneven rock steps, hills, and natural trails

• Water Tip: No plastic bottles allowed inside → Bring a reusable bottle or be ready to pay Q15 for water on-site

• Viewing Platforms:

  • Two main platforms offer stunning aerial views of the ruins

  • We loved the one in the Seven Temples area—but prepare for steep stairs

Pro Tip: Get a photo of the park map before entering. The signage inside isn’t great, and if you’re not good with directions, a guide might be worth it.

Breakfast Stop: Restaurante González 🥞🍋

After leaving Tikal, we stopped at Restaurante González, where I ordered the Desayuno Americano—eggs, bacon, and pancakes with honey syrup. It was simple and delicious.

• Staff = super friendly

• The fresh lemonade was amazing—highly recommend!

Back to Flores 🌅

After breakfast, we returned to Flores Island and parked the car before setting out to explore.

A Little History 📜

Flores is more than a picturesque island—it has deep Mayan roots:

• Originally known as Nojpetén, it was the capital of the Itza Maya Kingdom from around 900 BC until 1697 AD

• Its island location made it naturally defensible, allowing the Itza Maya to resist Spanish conquest longer than any other Mayan group

• The Spanish finally conquered the city in 1697, destroyed it, and built modern Flores on top of the ruins

• Today, Flores is considered the second-oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the Americas

Shopping in Flores 🛍️

Best Streets for Souvenirs:

• Calle Centroamérica

• Calle 30 de Junio

Flores had some of the best prices we found anywhere in Guatemala. Many items come from across the country, making it a one-stop shop for souvenirs.

I bought all the gifts I needed here—definitely worth setting aside some shopping time.

Lunch at Maple & Tocino 🥤🌊

We grabbed lunch at Maple & Tocino, which offers:

• Gorgeous lake views

• Fantastic milkshakes (highly recommend!)

• A cozy, modern vibe

It was a perfect break after wandering in the 100°F heat that felt closer to 113°F.

Relaxing Afternoon 😎

By mid-afternoon, the heat caught up with us, so we returned to our A/C room at the hotel for a few hours to cool off and relax. It was much-needed downtime after a week packed with driving and early mornings.

Sunset Dinner at Restaurante Raíces 🌅🥩

For dinner, we headed to Restaurante Raíces, located right on the lake—perfect for sunset views.

• I ordered the ½ lb tenderloin, which was pretty good

• The real highlight was watching the sun set over the water

After dinner, we browsed a small market, grabbed a few last-minute items, and headed back to the hotel to plan the next day’s adventure.

May 2: Flores → Lanquín

Today was one of those “best-laid plans” travel days where everything changes on the fly. We had dreams of turquoise waters at Crater Azul, but after getting turned around, riding a ferry across the river, hitting a few closed restaurants, and finally finding a peaceful spot on the river, we ended up in Lanquín—tired but relieved.

Morning Plans Change: Crater Azul Fail 🌊

With our updated itinerary, we wanted to see Crater Azul, a stunning blue lagoon near Las Cruces. We drove to the town but couldn’t locate the parking area or the boat access.

After circling and asking around, we decided to abandon the plan and head toward Lanquín, where we’d booked a last-minute stay closer to Guatemala City.

Unexpected Ferry Crossing in Sayaxché ⛴️

To avoid repeating the horrendous road from hell we took on April 29, we rerouted through Sayaxché and ended up crossing the Pasión River by ferry.

It was a quick, easy crossing, but from there we still had another five-hour drive ahead of us toward Cobán and eventually Lanquín.

Quick Stop at Balneario Las Pozas 🏖️

Along the way, we spotted Balneario Las Pozas, a small lakeside beach, and decided to stop to see some water at least since we’d missed Crater Azul.

• The area was filled with locals, many washing clothes along the shore

• The water was warm, but we opted not to swim

• It was still a nice little detour to stretch our legs before continuing the drive

Arriving in Lanquín 🛣️

By the time we reached Lanquín, we were exhausted. Our check-in instructions directed us to the Puma gas station, where we grabbed our keys for the Villa Suite across the lot.

Villa Suite Highlights:

• Best deal of our accommodations this trip

• Ice-cold A/C (a huge win!)

• Two separate bedrooms = privacy bonus

• Spacious and comfortable

The host mentioned possible river access at another property but never followed up, and honestly, we were too wiped out to push it.

Dinner Fail x2 → Win at Last 🍝

By this point, we realized we hadn’t eaten much all day and were running on fumes. We tried:

Attempt #1: Aragoncito Bistro al Carbón

• Google Maps said open

• Gas station staff confirmed open

• Reality: Closed

Attempt #2: KALULA Café y Restaurante

This was… baffling. It was technically open, but they were out of nearly everything:

• No water, no soda, no horchata

• Out of chicken, pizza, burgers, and most juices
  We couldn’t even figure out what they did have, so we gave up and left.

Success at Last: El Retiro Bar & Restaurant 🌿

Finally, we landed at El Retiro, tucked inside a hostel on the river.

• Small menu, but solid food

• We had spaghetti Bolognese, garlic toast, and sodas

• Peaceful riverside seating = exactly what we needed

Tuk Tuks, Puppies & Provisions 🐶

We grabbed a tuk tuk back to the suite and stopped at the Puma gas station for morning provisions (read: caffeine).

Highlight of the night? Meeting a pack of adorable puppies outside the gas station. They tried to follow us all the way back to our room, and honestly, leaving them behind was the hardest part of the day. 🥹

Evening Plans: Recovery Mode 🛏️

Back at the suite, we spent the evening:

• Researching Guatemala City activities

• Mapping out routes to avoid any surprise “roads from hell”

• Deciding that we were officially done with detours—no extra stops, no added hours

Exhausted, fed, and finally cooled off, we called it an early night.

May 3: Lanquín → Guatemala City

Today was our final big drive day in Guatemala, and luckily, it was one of the smoother ones. We started with what ended up being my favorite breakfast of the trip, then explored some of the historic highlights of Guatemala City’s Zone 1, including Constitution Plaza, the National Palace of Culture, and the Metropolitan Cathedral.

Breakfast Stop: Country Delights Restaurant 🥞🐟

On our way out of Lanquín, we stopped at Country Delights Restaurant, which turned out to be an adorable hidden gem.

• The restaurant had a beautiful koi pond, which gave the entire place a relaxing vibe

• We ordered a mix of dishes, including:

  • Waffles 🧇

  • Oats in warm milk 🥣

  • Yogurt with granola & fresh fruit 🍓

• Honestly, this may have been my favorite breakfast of the entire trip—simple, fresh, and so good

Fueled up and happy, we continued toward Guatemala City for our last sightseeing stop before heading home.

Arriving in Guatemala City 🏙️

We headed straight to Zone 1, the city’s historic center, and found parking at Parqueo Público, which was conveniently close to:

• Constitution Plaza (Plaza de la Constitución)

• National Palace of Culture (Palacio Nacional de la Cultura)

• Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago (Catedral Metropolitana)

Constitution Plaza (Plaza de la Constitución) 🇬🇹

Established in 1776, this central square is the heart of Guatemala City and a lively hub for both locals and tourists.

• Perfect spot for people-watching

• You’ll often see parades, protests, and demonstrations here

• Lots of street vendors selling snacks, drinks, and souvenirs

• Great place to just soak up the city’s energy

National Palace of Culture 🏛️

Located right on the plaza, the National Palace of Culture is an iconic landmark:

• Built in the 1940s as the former presidential palace

• Architectural style blends Spanish Colonial Revival and Neoclassical influences

• Today, it’s used for cultural events and government functions

• The outside is gorgeous, but you can also book guided tours inside if you have extra time

Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago de Guatemala ⛪

On the eastern side of the plaza, you’ll find the Metropolitan Cathedral of Santiago, the city’s most impressive church:

• Construction began in 1782 and finished in 1815

• Architectural style: A mix of Baroque and Neoclassical

• It has survived multiple major earthquakes over the centuries

• Inside, you’ll find:

  • Intricate altars and religious artwork

  • A memorial dedicated to victims of the Guatemalan Civil War, adding a somber layer of history

Mercado Central de Guatemala 🛍️

A few blocks away, we wandered through the Mercado Central de Guatemala, a must-stop for last-minute gifts and souvenirs.

• Multiple rows of booths spanning four aisles

• Sellers offering textiles, paintings, jewelry, liquor, leather goods, and handicrafts

• Prices were fair, and the variety was excellent — we were able to grab a few final items before heading home

Lunch at San Martín Centro Histórico 🥪🍕

After shopping, we grabbed lunch at San Martín Centro Histórico — and unfortunately, it was my least favorite restaurant of the entire trip:

• I ordered a sandwich, my friend ordered pizza

• Her pizza came 8–10 minutes before my food

• Neither tasted good 😑

• My lemonade was warm and Q27 (everywhere else we’d been getting colder, fresher lemonade for Q15)

• The service was slow

• Inside, the air felt stagnant and hot

The place looks cute, but I’d skip it if you’re looking for a better meal in the area.

Airbnb Fail → Hotel Plan B 🏨

By 3 PM, we were ready to check into our Airbnb near the airport. We expected something simple, but… things escalated quickly:

• The property had guarded entry, and we had to leave an ID in exchange for a gate pass

• Inside, the apartment was basic but seemed fine at first glance:

  • Master bedroom: queen bed + A/C ✅

  • Second bedroom: bunk beds, no A/C 😬

  • Living room: small fan + uncomfortable couch

• We decided we could make it work — until we flushed the toilet once, and it didn’t flush again for 10–15 minutes 😳

At this point, my stomach wasn’t feeling great, so a functioning bathroom was non-negotiable. I messaged the owner, and by the time he responded, the toilet flushed — but he kindly offered a full refund. We took it.

Guatemala City Traffic = Chaos 🚦

This meant we had to scramble for a hotel… in the middle of rush hour. At one point, it took 10–15 minutes to drive 280 meters.

Driving here requires nerves of steel:

• Traffic lights = optional 🤷‍♀️

• 2–4 cars blast through reds regularly

• Motorbikes weave through cars and ignore lanes completely

• Some roads are gridlocked, while others are suddenly wide open

Thankfully, my friend’s an aggressive driver — otherwise, we’d still be there.

Conquistador Hotel & Spa 🛏️🍝

We finally landed at the Conquistador Hotel, checked in, and parked.

• The room was meh — clean, functional, but nothing special

• The toilet worked, which at this point was a huge win

• The hotel restaurant was surprisingly nice:

  • Tuna tartare on banana chips 🥢

  • Salmon over veggie pasta 🍝

  • Food = pretty good, though service was slow

• There’s also a cute Italian-style café downstairs for coffee and pastries

The Rogue Spider Incident 🕷️😂

After dinner, we returned to the room to pack and prep for our flight. At 7 PM, it happened:

• I spotted a huge spider on the bedside table

• Before we could react… it vanished

• Now we had a rogue, eight-legged roommate

The irony? We’d spent two nights in jungle lodges without a single big spider encounter. But in our 7th-floor hotel room in the middle of Guatemala City? That’s where it happened.

At this point, we just laughed it off. It felt like the perfect ending to a trip where nothing went exactly as planned — but everything became a story worth telling.