Midwest Road Trip: WI, IL and MI

June 6: Travel Adventures Begin

Our trip officially kicked off with a classic airport experience: delays. We were set to fly out at 3:25 PM, but by the time we got to the airport, our flight was bumped to 3:55 PM. Not a huge delay, but enough to nudge us toward the food court. We split a sandwich—airport dining isn’t exactly budget-friendly—and spent some time meandering through the terminal. There’s something oddly satisfying about people-watching and browsing overpriced souvenirs while waiting for a flight.

Finally, we boarded and took off. The flight itself was smooth and uneventful—just how we like it—and we landed at Milwaukee Airport at 9:15 PM. With a spring in our step, we grabbed our bags (quickly, for once!) and headed to the rental car counters. That’s where things got interesting.

Our rental company, Dollar, was closed, but a small sign directed us to Hertz for assistance. After a short wait, we got to the counter and asked about adding a second driver. What should’ve been a simple process turned into a headache when the rep couldn’t tell us how much it would cost. When he finally added the second driver, the price shot up by $150. We decided to skip it, but removing the charge turned into a saga. It took multiple employees and a supervisor to fix the issue, and somehow, my card got charged for the second driver anyway! Another manager had to step in to resolve it. After 15 minutes (which felt like 50), we were finally on our way, tired but relieved.

The drive to Baraboo was long, and since we had essentially skipped both lunch and dinner, hunger hit hard. We made a pit stop at the #1 gas station chain in the U.S., Kwik Trip, and let me tell you—it’s more than just a gas station. We grabbed some hot food and snacks, and I was blown away by their selection. Freshly baked goods, grocery items, and even prepped meals? No wonder it has such a cult following.

Back on the road, we powered through the final stretch and arrived at our Motel 6 near Lake Delton around 2 AM. It was budget-friendly but clean, with a hot shower and a bed that was... tolerable. Exhausted, we fell into bed, ready for the adventures ahead.

June 7: Trails, Spirits, and Deep-Dish Dreams

Despite a late-night arrival, we were up bright and early—well, early for us. I woke up at 7:00 AM, and my boyfriend’s alarm went off at 7:30. After getting ready, we were out the door by 8:15 and headed straight to Devil’s Lake State Park, where a $16 day pass got us access to some of the most breathtaking scenery Wisconsin has to offer.

Devil’s Lake is massive—360 acres of crystal-clear water surrounded by lush forests and towering bluffs. Fun fact: the name “Devil’s Lake” comes from a mistranslation of the Ho-Chunk word Tewakącąk, meaning “Sacred Lake” or “Spirit Lake.” Early European settlers misunderstood the term, leading to the slightly ominous name we know today.

We parked near the trailhead for a loop combining Balanced Rock Trail, East Bluff Trail, and Potholes Trail. At just 1.2 miles, it sounds easy, but don’t be fooled—it’s a steep climb with 475 feet of elevation gain over rock stairs. The views, however, are worth every step. Balanced Rock and Devil’s Doorway are true marvels, and the vistas over the lake and surrounding forest are stunning. The descent via Potholes Trail was steep and a little tricky, but with some patience, we made it back to the car feeling accomplished.

Lunch was a treat at Driftless Glen Distillery with one of my boyfriend’s friends and his wife. The restaurant’s patio overlooked the Baraboo River, creating the perfect backdrop for great food and conversation. Driftless Glen specializes in bourbon, whiskey, gin, and vodka, all crafted with locally sourced ingredients. While we didn’t take a tour, their drinks alone were impressive. I opted for the bourbon burger, while my boyfriend enjoyed a chicken sandwich with smoked Gouda. Both were delicious and paired perfectly with their house cocktails.

After lunch, we headed to Parfrey’s Glen, Wisconsin’s first state natural area, established in the late 1800s. This cool, mossy gorge felt like stepping into another world. The flat trail follows a river, but as we got deeper into the glen, things got more adventurous. We hopped across rocks to cross the river, scrambled over boulders, and navigated slippery terrain. The views? Absolutely worth it. Towering cliffs, a noticeable drop in temperature, and evidence of past water levels made this place unforgettable. We spent about an hour exploring before heading back to the car.

After bidding farewell to our friends, we made the drive to Rolling Meadows, IL, just north of Chicago. Dinner was at Lou Malnati’s, a favorite from a previous trip. Despite the bustling atmosphere, we snagged seats at the bar and savored a small deep-dish pizza. It’s not my favorite Chicago-style pizza, but it’s undeniably good. For dessert, my boyfriend insisted on a Portillo’s cake shake—essentially a milkshake with a slice of chocolate cake blended in. He was over the moon about it, and while I enjoyed it, I think he loved it a bit more.

We wrapped up the night at another Motel 6, though this one wasn’t as nice. No fridge, lukewarm water, and a showerhead that sprayed from the entrance—quirky, to say the least. The lobby even had bulletproof glass, which was… interesting. But the room was clean, the parking lot was spacious, and the location was convenient. Sometimes, that’s all you need.

June 8-10: Family Time in Kalamazoo

The next two days were all about family. We made our way to Kalamazoo, where we caught up over good food, local beer, and plenty of laughs. Highlights included:

• Warren Sand Dunes: Getting an chilly and windy glimpse of Lake Michigan.

• Texas Corners Brewery: Set in a converted church, this spot offers incredible cider and farm-to-table dishes. Their outdoor patio and friendly service made it a favorite.

• Fazoli’s: Fast-food Italian might sound questionable, but it’s a nostalgic treat I can’t find out west. Breadsticks galore!

• Louie’s Trophy House: The oldest bar in Kalamazoo, complete with taxidermy and a menu featuring game meats. It’s a slice of local history (literally and figuratively).

• Berries Pancake House: A newer breakfast spot with hearty portions and my favorite, Irish Benedict. A great way to start the day.

It was the perfect pause before heading to Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Stay tuned for more adventures!

June 10: Traverse City – Cherries, Beer, and Vacation Vibes

We had Berries for breakfast with my dad and headed north.  We drove to Traverse City and stopped at the botanical gardens at Barns Park.  It is totally free, including guided tours.  They do request donations as the place is fully funded by donations and grants.  They have a large grounds with a lot of different gardens and the old farm buildings being repurposed.  The history of the place is interesting: The land was initially part of the Grand Traverse Commons, which was once the site of the Traverse City State Hospital, a mental institution. The hospital was built in the late 1800s and used until its closure in 1989.  They have healing gardens, labyrinth, fairy garden, Asian garden, fire resistant garden, community garden, etc… they also have a lot of trails and a self guided tour with a map.  The guided tours are done by volunteers.  

We then headed to the location of the state hospital.  Most of the site is dilapidated but one area has been revitalized and now has shops and restaurants.  You can walk around the exterior of the buildings or pay for a tour.  The tours take you into the tunnels.  The hospital operated as a largely self-sufficient community, with its own farm, gardens, power plant, and water supply.    The hospital was known for its progressive approach to mental health treatment at the time. Patients were provided with humane care.  It closed in 1989 when funding for mental health decreased.  

We ventured to the Filling Station for lunch which is situated in a historic railway depot in Traverse City, providing a unique and charming atmosphere for visitors.  They have wood fired flat bread pizzas and they were delicious.  I tried the cider and my boyfriend had a flight of beer, both were good.  The place has outdoor protected seating with heaters.  

From there we drove to Charlevoix and headed to check out the World’s Largest Cherry pie which is a unique roadside attraction (and controversial because Traverse City has the World’s largest cherry pie tin).  Then we stopped in the downtown area to check out Cherry Republic which is a gift shop full of cherry flavored items: salsa, jam/jelly, honey, beef sticks, sour candy, chocolate covered cherries, cheese, etc..  we bought souvenirs and headed across the street to the marina. It was beautiful and crystal clear but the area had so many mosquitos that deterred us from staying too long. The area has ferries to Beaver Island, sail boats, public restrooms and a splash pad.  

After fleeing the mosquitos we headed to Petoskey state park and straight to the beach.  We parked and walked a distance, watching for Petoskey rocks.  We found one but threw it back.  I remember there being so many and one this trip we saw maybe 3.  The lake views are beautiful though and the beach was not busy at all.  You can get free admission for the recreation pass (license plate), an annual pass for $40 or a day pass for $11.  They have a small concession at the beach, bathrooms and changing areas.  

The last stop was at the Rusted Spoke brewing company.  We sat at the bar and enjoyed cider/beer.  The beer from them was just meh but they had some pretty good cider on tap from other Michigan breweries.  The food was pretty good: walleye special and Mac n cheese with burnt ends on top.  The feed was delicious.  The staff was nice but they were a bit overwhelmed and forgot a few things but would remember after some time.  Overall, I can’t complain.  My boyfriend also made friends with an older man that had questions about his life choices I.e tattoos but not in a judgy way.  We paid the bill and headed across the Mackinaw bridge to St Ignace and the Cedar Motel.  We got upgraded to a deluxe room and it was nice enough.  It’s clean, with a queen bed, sitting chairs, fire place and mini fridge.  The shower was hot and the only real complaint is a faint musty smell which is likely from the carpet on the floors.  It was $72 for the night and I’d probably stay here again.

June 11: Sand, Sun, and Suds at Tahquamenon Falls

We woke up and headed out into the 44 degree weather at 8:15 am 😫.  We decided to get some views of the Mackinaw Bridge at  Bridge View Park.  The park has a big parking area, restrooms and visitor center.  It offers views of the lake and the bridge.  It was definitely worth the stop.  We headed toward Tahquamenon Falls State Park.  We detoured to Eckerman Pond:  The late 19th and early 20th centuries saw a boom in the logging industry in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula. Eckerman and the surrounding areas were part of this boom, with many small ponds and streams, including Eckerman Pond, being used for logging operations. Logs were often floated down local waterways to larger bodies of water where they could be transported to mills.  The area is accessed by a short dirt road that was a bit rugged in a few areas.  We have a Chevy Malibu and made it slowly.  There are a couple bridges, a nice stream and some trails.  We decided not to venture too far because the trail was really wet and muddy this date.  Apparently there is a trail to see bird life.  The area also has a boat access area and a remains of a building.  Afterwards we headed toward Naomikong lookout area.  Apparently there is a bridge there but we didn’t see it due to some poor GPS coordinates.  The lookout overlooks some trees and Lake Superior.  It’s a quick stop right off the road so it only took a few minutes.  From there we carried on to the falls:  The name “Tahquamenon” is derived from the Ojibwa word “Outakouaminan,” which refers to the river’s amber-colored waters.   French explorers and fur traders were among the first Europeans to encounter the falls in the 17th and 18th centuries.  In the 20th century the use of dynamite was part of logging operations. Loggers faced significant challenges when transporting logs down the Tahquamenon River due to the powerful Upper Falls. To facilitate the movement of logs, dynamite was used to blast away parts of the rock ledge at the falls to create a sluiceway, allowing logs to bypass the falls more easily and continue downstream to the sawmills.  There are two areas 4 miles apart: the upper and lower falls.  The upper is definitely a more interesting view.  They both have maintained walking paths.  The lower falls requires a 94 step decline to get close to the falls but there are lookouts on the flat areas.  The hike is also possible from one park to the other.  It’s a 4 mile hike there and back.  We hit the lower falls first and drove to the upper falls.  Both areas have large lots and the upper one has a store, outdoor seating, food and the Tahquamenon Brewery.  We stopped at the brewery after visiting the falls and had lunch.  I had the beer cheese with warm pretzels and the smoked fish salad with homemade maple vinaigrette.  Both were delicious and the boyfriend tried the beer and burger.  The beer was okay but the burger was good.

We took the long(er) drive to Kitch-iti-kipi also known as “The Big Spring,” is Michigan’s largest freshwater spring and is located in Palms Book State Park.  The spring was a revered natural site long before European settlers arrived.  It is said to have been “discovered” by John I. Bellaire, a Manistique businessman, who learned about the spring from Native American stories and legends.  Recognizing its natural beauty and potential as a public asset, he lobbied for its preservation. Bellaire’s efforts led to the state of Michigan purchasing the land surrounding the spring and establishing Palms Book State Park in 1926.  The park is easy to find with a medium sized lot.  The area has a gift shop and clean restrooms.  There is a paved pathway to the spring.  There is a boat/raft is on the water and it’s manually operated via a crank and rope.  People wait in line until it comes back and then the next group boards.  Our group alternated working the crank so everyone had a chance to see the sites and take photos.  The bottom of the boat/raft is open and you can see to the bottom, the fish and the aquamarine water.  It was honestly the coolest stop of the day and the reviews/photos didn’t really do it justice.  The water is crazy and the sand at the bottom moves from the pressure/speed of the natural water.

The last stop was Fayette Historic State Park which preserves the historic townsite of Fayette, which was a bustling industrial community in the 19th century.  Fayette was founded in 1867 by the Jackson Iron Company.  At its peak, Fayette had a population of around 500 residents, including skilled workers, laborers, and their families. The furnaces operated 24 hours a day, producing pig iron, which was then shipped to markets via Lake Michigan.  In 1891, the Jackson Iron Company ceased operations at Fayette, leading to the town’s rapid decline. Residents moved away in search of new opportunities, and the once-thriving community became a ghost town.  The site has a large parking area and some of the buildings are open to tour.  The also have period furniture and artifacts.  The buildings have descriptions of what the buildings were used for.  There is access to the lake with a pretty rock lined beach.  

From there, we headed to Manistique and stopped at Tap 21.  The bar had taco Tuesday and we got the prime rib and fish tacos which hit the spot.  We also got some cider/beer.  The bar had a really old hand carved wooden bar and excellent service.  It was a great experience.  They feature 21 taps with Michigan beer/cider/seltzer.

The last stop was the hotel:  Holiday Motel Manistique.  The hotel was in the $70 range and the owner was really nice.  The hotel room is also nice and clean.  The shower was hot and they have a mini fridge.  The bed was pretty comfortable and they have some extras: makeup removing wipes, 4 pillows on the bed, hair dryer, multiple WiFi routers, charging station for USBs.  

June 12: Mighty hikes and Pictured Rocks Magic

We woke up and got on the road for Pictured Rocks but had to detour back to the hotel because we left a phone behind.  Ron at the hotel was kind enough to call us to let us know.  The detour did cause about an hour.  We arrived a Pictured Rocks National Park and parked at the Beaver Creek Parking lot and made the 1.6 mile hike to Big Star Cove.  The hike was through the woods where the vegetation changed from woods to riverbed to tropical to beach.  The mosquitos were horrendous so we had to keep a steady pace otherwise they would bite us despite the 40% DEET.  It was a well marked path and cleared.  The biggest obstacle is the tree roots.  However, once we hit the beach, the view was beautiful and we were basically the only people there.  We hiked back and it was about noon so we headed to Munsing and had lunch at the Driftwood Deli and beers at By George brewing.  They are connected so you can eat/drink at either place.   The beer was good and so was the pear cider.  The bar was cool looking and the service was great.  

We headed back to Pictured Rocks to Elliot Falls.  It was a short walk from the parking lot to the beach.  It’s not the most impressive waterfall by terms of size, volume or strength but it is unique as it cascades down some rock ledges into Lake Superior and some of the color is beautiful.  From there we headed to Miner’s Castle Rock.  Here is a large parking lot with restrooms and a short walk to the upper look point to the rock shaped like a castle.  There is a moderately graded walk to the lower lookout 1000’ away.  It has a closer view of the Miner’s castle and both lookouts are a quick stop off.  

Heading toward our hotel, we stopped off at Bay Furnace ruins.  These ruins are the remnants of an iron smelting operation that was active in the late 19th century. The furnace was part of a larger ironworks community that produced pig iron, essential for various industrial uses.  It had a large parking lot, a large beach access area and the furnace which was a very short walk.  The area also has a lot of rocks with iron deposits on it.  

Then we stopped at Lakenenland:  Created by artist Tom Lakenen, this unique park features a wide variety of whimsical and imaginative sculptures made primarily from scrap metal and other recycled materials.  It is open 24/7 with free admission.  It does have a drop for donations if you feel inclined.  In the summer you can walk or drive the pathway and see all the sculptures.  In the winter walking is allowed only.  It’s pet friendly with dogs on a leash and you can tell a lot of work went into the statues.  Some are humerous, some are creative, some have political messages and others show support to groups of people.  But it’s worth the stop.

From there, we headed into Marquette and stopped at Superior Culture which is a brewery with unique brews, kombucha, mead and cider.  They were well made and interesting.  The interior was colorful and inviting.  We then headed to Kognisjon Bryggeri which had a window to Fish Express.  I got the fish tacos and hush puppies which were good.  The beer inside Kognisjon was the best of the trip.  It interior was large and they had a moderate sized patio.  The flights were $11 for 4 five oz pours.  The last stop for the night was our hotel: Value Host Motor Inn.  This is located off a busy road but somehow we missed it the first time with google maps.  The staff was nice, the room was clean and the shower was hot.  They advertised refrigerators in the room but we didn’t have one.  It has ample parking though.  

June 13: Quirky Gems and Quiet Springs

We made reservations for the glass bottom shipwreck tour for 10am.  We headed to Munising and the place had a nice sized parking lot and a gift shop inside with any necessities that you might need: sunglasses, hats, gloves, sunscreen, sweatshirts, snacks, etc.  It was all responsibly priced.  We headed on board and ship has 4 large rectangular openings revealing a glass bottom.  Several seats inside the boat with large windows, a seating area in the front of the lower level, a seating area on the upper deck with standing room on both sides and a large seating area in the back of the upper deck.  You are free to move around the boat.  It has a 3 staff and audio history of the area.  You are able to see 2 shipwrecks through the glass bottom:    The SS Bermuda was a wooden steamship that operated in the Great Lakes. It met its fate on October 15, 1870, during a storm on Lake Superior. The ship was en route from Marquette, Michigan, to Cleveland, Ohio, carrying a cargo of iron ore. The storm caused the Bermuda to founder off the coast of Grand Island, near Munising, Michigan. Fortunately, all crew members were rescued by the nearby schooner Nightingale.  The Herman H. Hettler was built in 1890 and served as a steam barge primarily for transporting cargo across the Great Lakes. On May 23, 1926, the Hettler encountered a severe storm while towing the schooner-barge Arabia. The storm caused significant damage, and the Hettler ultimately sank near Crisp Point, which is located between Grand Marais and Whitefish Point in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula.  Both boats were pretty cool to see and the water is very clear making the viewing easy.  Other sites on the tour include: -Grand Island East Channel Lighthouse: The lighthouse was constructed in 1868 to guide ships navigating the treacherous waters of Lake Superior, particularly those entering Munising Bay. It played a crucial role in aiding maritime traffic during the height of the shipping industry in the region.  It was decommissioned in 1908 but has been preserved and repaired.  

-The painted rocks of Munising Bay and the Grand Island.  The cruise takes about 2 hours and I really enjoyed this.  It may have been a highlight of the trip.

We got off the boat and headed south.  We stopped at Hereford & Hops Steak House And Brewpub.  This place brews some pretty good beer and it can only be enjoyed in house.  The building is a historic landmark built as the Delta Hotel in 1912-1913.  It was used as a hotel until 1962 and then became a home for senior Citizens until 1992.  It sat empty until it became Hereford & Hops Steak House And Brewpub.  The food was okay, the service was excellent and I’d say it’s definitely worth a stop for the beer.  During our time here, we conveniently waited out a severe thunderstorm warning and headed on our way to Potawatomi Heritage Center which is probably only worth a stop if they have an event or entertainment (dancing, storytelling) going on which wasn’t happening when we arrived.  They did allow us to walk around and see the artifacts and artwork but there isn’t a lot to see.  They also have sewing classes if that’s of interest:  hannahville.net 

We then headed to a must see: Iron Mountain Iron Mine. This is not the actual big mine in the area which is no longer accessible and full of water.  The Menominee Iron Range, where the Iron Mountain Iron Mine is located, was discovered in the late 1870s. This region in Michigan’s Upper Peninsula became known for its rich deposits of iron ore, attracting numerous mining companies. The Menominee mine is across the street.  The Iron Mountain mine was turned into a historic landmark and now operates tours which cost $20/adult.  They provide hardhats and raincoats, show the equipment that is still functional that was used to mine and take you on a train ride into the mine.  You spend about 20-25 minutes on the train and walking around the inside.  It’s 44 degrees Fahrenheit year round so bring a jacket.  The tour is so cool though and another highlight from the trip.  They have a gift shop and large parking area.  Tours run 10 past every hour.

On route to our hotel for the night, we stopped at the Norway Spring.  It’s a quick stop off the road and it’s basically a natural spring water that you can use to fill up bottles with.  It’s pretty neat and the water is crystal clear and tastes good.  It was worth the 2 minute stop because where else can you fill a water bottle from a natural spring?

We arrived to Iron Mountain around 3:30 and checked into Budget Host Inn.  This place was cheap but clean.  The rooms were very outdated but it was recently purchased by someone new about 4 months ago so hopefully it sees some updates.  The shower was hot, the toilet paper was the absolute worst, so much so that we almost ran out to buy our own.  The room had a tiny kitchenette with mini fridge.  I think we got a nice accommodation for the price though.  My last little complaint is it had a light above the bed but it was at the worst possible height and sitting up in bed was impossible.  Those things need to go.

We then decided to get dinner at Storheims Family Restaurant for the Swedish meatballs and custard.  The food was okay, not the same as what we had in Sweden but they had good flavor and it was priced fair for the portion.  The custard was good and they had all kinds of sundaes, shakes, etc.  The last stop of the night was 51st State Brewing Company.  We just stopped in for a flight and sat at the bar.  They did have wood fired pizzas and a descent beer selection.  The boyfriend enjoyed all the beers he tried except one.  

June 14: Cheese Castles and Sweet Farewells

We hung around the hotel a little longer than normal because we had a late flight out of MKE.  We rolled out around 10:30am.  We headed south and stopped to eat at Narrow Bridge Brewhouse.  They have a huge parking lot, huge outdoor patio and large interior with a stage.  It no longer brews its own beer but the food was good and the boyfriend was able to have his first Friday fish fry.  From there we headed to: Bergstrom-Mahler Museum of Glass which is a free glass museum.  This museum is heavy on the glass paperweights, like so many of them.  Once you learn the history: Evangeline Bergstrom began her love of paperweights as a child. She was born in Ithaca, NY on May 23, 1872, it starts to make sense.  There is a really detailed history here: https://bmmglass.com/about/history/. The museum has various exhibits and is rather small but it’s located in a beautiful home with a nice park across the street.  

We continued south to West Bend Labyrinth Garden which was developed in 2005.  The grassy pathway is lined with a garden full of perennials, annuals, herbs, bulbs and ornamental grasses.  It has such beautiful flowers in all shapes, sizes and colors.  It was also located inside a nice park with a small fishing pond.  

We headed toward Milwaukee and stopped in Faklandia Brewpub.  This place is for the nerds and I mean that in the best possible way as my boyfriend is also one of them.  They also have the Mana Vault attached to the bar where you can game.  They have a big inside space, attached gaming area and large patio.  They have smoked meats, fish fry Friday, burger and appetizers.  They had 5-6 beers of their own and one guest beer.  From there, we returned the car and went into the airport.  We had to wait to check our bags until 7:30 pm and our flight was already delayed by 45 minutes.  Security was breezy and since we were basically the only plane leaving from the terminal, seating was easy to find.