Netherlands, Belgium and Luxembourg
March 21–31, 2026
✈️ March 21: Travel Day & A Rough Start to Airline Food
We arrived at the airport about three hours before our departure since the government was in a partial shutdown and TSA was in week five of not being paid. Luckily, LAS Terminal 3 was moving quickly. We dropped our bags, got our boarding passes, and made it through security (TSA PreCheck) in under 20 minutes.
The Club Las Vegas lounge was in the middle of a shift change, so we waited at our gate, which was literally right across from it, until we got a text saying it was our turn. We spent about an hour there before heading back to the gate, where we basically walked straight onto the plane.
We originally had someone seated between us, but toward the end of boarding she moved up to sit near her boyfriend, leaving us with an empty middle seat — always a win. I was actually able to get some sleep, which was a nice surprise.
However… the food on KLM was atrocious. I needed antacids and spent a solid 45 minutes trying to keep their meatballs down. Not exactly the glamorous start to an international trip.
March 22: Amsterdam Arrival, Museums, Canals & Anne Frank House
We arrived in Amsterdam, and it felt strange actually leaving the airport since I’ve only ever had layovers here before. Passport control was smooth, and we waited about 20 minutes for our bags due to an issue with the conveyor belt.
From there, we headed straight to Hertz to pick up our rental car. The car pickup is a longgg walk, but thankfully there are moving walkways.
We then made our way to the hotel, Moxy Amsterdam, where we were directed to the underground parking garage. Unfortunately, early check-in wasn’t available.
Our plan was to head out and explore, then come back before our 7:45 PM appointment at the Anne Frank House.
We grabbed our jackets and started walking to Mooie Boules, but when we got inside, it was packed with kids, and the ordering system was online only with no translation option. The kids were exceptionally unruly, and there was basically no parental supervision, so we quickly decided to leave and keep moving.
Next, we went to Your Daily Domus, which ended up being a great choice. The place was beautifully decorated, the staff was friendly, and they had vegan, gluten-free, and other alternative options. I ordered the daily special, a homemade pasta with broccoli, and we finished with a vegan brownie that was incredibly moist and super chocolatey. The total came to €38 for two entrées, two drinks, and dessert, which was very reasonable.
After lunch, we activated our I Amsterdam City Cards and stopped at Museum Het Schip.
Museum Het Schip is a unique museum housed in a striking, ship-shaped social housing complex that showcases Amsterdam School architecture and tells the story of early 20th-century working-class housing. It highlights how design and architecture were used to improve living conditions during that time.
That said… it wasn’t the most interesting museum. I’m glad we didn’t pay separately for it. We spent about 10 minutes walking around and then left.
We walked through Westerpark, which was busy with people enjoying their Sunday. It had a few unique statues and a pond with a fountain. This was really just a shortcut to another museum we had planned, but we ended up skipping it because the next English tour wasn’t for over 30 minutes, and we were too tired to wait.
Instead, we went to the Geelvinck Pianola Museum.
This tiny museum is tucked inside a historic canal house and was created to preserve the magic of the pianola, or self-playing piano, which was popular in the late 1800s and early 1900s. Its origins trace back to private collectors who gathered rare instruments, music rolls, and restoration knowledge to keep this once cutting-edge technology alive. Today, it feels less like a traditional museum and more like a living time capsule, where century-old pianos still perform and echo the sounds of Amsterdam’s musical past.
They offer guided tours, or you can wander at your own pace.
At this point, we were exhausted. We weren’t finding anything that felt like a “must-see,” so we decided to just grab an Uber back to the hotel and officially check in since it was now past 3 PM.
Of course, there was a line, and the check-in process was slow. About 40 minutes later, we finally made it to the room, where we rested, unpacked, and figured out what to do next.
Since the city pass included Lovers Canal Cruises, we decided to do that and grabbed another Uber. Yes, we had a car, but parking in the city center is €8 per hour. We were too tired to walk, and the Uber was only €12.
The cruise was departing about 15 minutes after we arrived, so we grabbed our tickets and got in line. The tour itself was just okay. The boats aren’t really designed for the best views, but it was still nice to be on the canals and learn a bit of history. It lasted about an hour.
From there, we headed to the Anne Frank House.
The Anne Frank House is a powerful museum set in the hidden annex where Anne Frank and her family hid during World War II. It preserves the secret rooms and shares her diary, offering an intimate and moving glimpse into life in hiding and the human impact of the Holocaust.
You need to book tickets far in advance, and they are timed. It’s always busy and very crowded, which can make the experience feel a bit rushed, but it is still incredibly impactful, especially having read the book and knowing what happened in that space.
There is also a gift shop and café, though the café was closed when we visited.
Afterward, we stopped at Café de Oude Wester for dinner. I had the lasagne bolognese, which really hit the spot, and my friend ordered the mussels — easily 40 to 50 of them. The service was excellent, and about 30 minutes later we were back in an Uber heading to the hotel.
We passed out almost immediately.
The hotel’s location in a quieter wharf area meant very little traffic noise, and the room was very dark, which made for great sleep. That said, the room itself was just okay. My comforter had some questionable stains, the TV randomly shut off, the walls were pretty marked up, and the shower had a mind of its own — leaking water and occasionally turning scalding hot out of nowhere.
So overall, probably overpriced for what you get, but the bed was comfortable and the room was quiet, which made it worth it.
🐘 March 23: Animals, Museums & A Full-On Culture Marathon
We started the morning leisurely since the earliest thing on our list didn’t open until 9 AM.
We attempted to get an Uber… and got rejected twice. So we asked the hotel to call a taxi.
Big mistake.
This was a boujee ride straight into financial regret. It cost the same as three Ubers combined from the day before. Consider this your warning: think twice about taxis.
Our first stop was ARTIS Zoo, one of Europe’s oldest zoos. It blends historic architecture with modern habitats and includes animals, an aquarium, and a planetarium right in the heart of Amsterdam.
Unfortunately, the aquarium was closed the day we visited.
That said, this may have been the most active we’ve ever seen animals at any zoo. There was a huge variety of species, and most had very large enclosures. The landscaping was also gorgeous, which made it feel more like a park than a zoo.
There were indoor exhibits, including a hatchery, and plenty of food options with seating overlooking different enclosures.
If you live in Amsterdam, this is absolutely worth a yearly pass. We thoroughly enjoyed it.
Right in that area is ARTIS-Groote Museum, a beautifully restored 19th-century museum within ARTIS that explores the connection between humans, animals, and nature through interactive exhibits, art, and science. This was interesting and had some very unique exhibits. I think it’s really kid-forward, with a lot of interactive things to see. They also had a gift shop and a few cafés around the block.
The next museum in the ARTIS area was Micropia, a fascinating museum dedicated to the invisible world of microbes, where interactive exhibits reveal how bacteria, fungi, and viruses shape our bodies, ecosystems, and everyday life. This was actually really cool and showed you all about the microbes that are surrounding us, inside us, and on us every day. They have very interactive displays, a lab demonstration, and slides of common bacteria, viruses, and more. I also made the mistake of pressing a button that released a rancid, rotting smell.
We worked up an appetite and stopped at Coffee & Bites. They had gluten-free bread for my friend and fresh-squeezed orange juice. I had a dish recommended by the waiter: the Michael sandwich, which was a bun with beans, a hash brown, bacon, and a fried egg, along with an iced chai latte. It was actually pretty good.
With fuel in us, we headed to the National Holocaust Museum, a deeply moving museum that tells the story of the persecution of Jews in the Netherlands during World War II, focusing on personal stories, historical context, and the lasting impact of the Holocaust. This place gave us our first encounter with security checking bags and timed doors. Inside was only what I can describe as disgusting. Not because of the museum itself, but because it is so deeply depressing what happened to so many people during World War II. They have a chronological history, objects belonging to Jewish victims, stories of their treatment, eyewitness testimony, and articles and artifacts. Again, it’s something we really need to know about, but it is shocking to learn about.
Needing a lighter stop, we went to Hortus Botanicus, one of the world’s oldest botanical gardens, featuring lush greenhouses, rare plants, and tranquil gardens that feel like a quiet escape in the middle of the city. They had multiple climate-controlled greenhouses and a butterfly house. They only had a few types of butterflies, but I can’t resist butterflies. It was a nice, peaceful stop.
Our next stop was a continuation of the National Holocaust Museum: the Portuguese Synagogue, a grand 17th-century synagogue built by Sephardic Jews who fled the Iberian Peninsula, known for its vast, candlelit interior and remarkably preserved historic atmosphere.
How does it tie to the Holocaust Museum? The majority of the Dutch Jewish community had been killed during the Holocaust, about 75%. Many who survived returned to find their homes taken and communities shattered. The synagogue itself had survived, so it became a place where Jewish life slowly resumed.
This was another location where bags were searched and they had timed-entry doors. It’s not really an ornate synagogue, but it is rich with history and included in admission to the Holocaust Museum. Tip: keep your ticket to get into three different locations.
Nearby is the House of Gassan, where they do free tours. We arrived and waited 10 minutes for the next tour. They take you upstairs to where the diamond cutters and polishers are working, then into a room where you learn about carat, cut, clarity, and color, and get to see different types of diamonds and sample rings that you can try on and/or buy. The tour ends in the store, which we bypassed. The man who started the company, Samuel Gassan, had ties to World War II, and his diamonds actually saved his life when he fled Amsterdam during Jewish persecution. He returned after the war and created what is now a pretty lucrative company.
A short walk from there is the Rembrandt House Museum, the former home and studio of Rembrandt van Rijn, where you can explore his living spaces, see etching demonstrations, and experience how one of history’s greatest artists lived and worked. It is multi-leveled and features some of his own work and other pieces he collected. It also shows a studio where he taught three students at a time. Interestingly, he was forced to sell the house due to debts owed.
We then wandered to Huis Willet-Holthuysen, a beautifully preserved 17th-century canal house that offers a glimpse into the elegant lifestyle of Amsterdam’s wealthy elite, complete with period rooms, art collections, and a charming garden tucked behind the house. This one was a take-it-or-leave-it stop. Like all the houses and museums, there were multiple steps inside. The garden was small, and a lot of the furniture and décor are not the original pieces that were left to the city. Most were auctioned off or sold. Later curators have done their best to acquire period pieces to resemble how the house would have looked.
The next stop was Museum Van Loon, a stately canal house once owned by a wealthy merchant family, showcasing elegant period rooms, portraits, and a beautiful garden and carriage house that reflect Amsterdam’s Golden Age lifestyle. This is another one where the items inside aren’t original because after the last private owner died, the items were auctioned or sold. Later curators have attempted to recreate it. This one did have a small but rather cool garden in back.
We then attempted to make the 17:00 cutoff for De Nieuwe Kerk, a historic 15th-century church on Dam Square that no longer holds regular services but hosts major exhibitions, royal events, and ceremonies, including Dutch royal inaugurations. Tip: we arrived at 16:40 and it was already closed for admissions. However, the outside was quite the sight, and the square it is located in has several impressive-looking buildings.
From there we headed to the Oude Kerk, Amsterdam’s oldest building and church, dating back to the 13th century, known for its soaring wooden ceiling, historic graves, including Rembrandt van Rijn’s wife, and its modern art exhibitions set within a centuries-old space. Now this was a true highlight of the day. It had massively high ceilings, floor-to-ceiling spiral staircases, crypts covering the entire floor, stained glass windows, including old ones, and one of the largest organs I’ve ever seen. It was amazing.
Our final stop on the city pass was Museum Ons’ Lieve Heer op Solder, a hidden 17th-century canal house church tucked into an attic, built when Catholics were forbidden to worship openly, offering a fascinating glimpse into Amsterdam’s secret religious life. This was a surprising one for us. The real gem is the pink church in the attic. Again, a lot of stairs inside this bad boy, but it was another highlight. I’m glad this is how we ended the day… a hidden surprise. I actually had no idea there was a church until we got inside.
We cruised through the Red Light District and spotted a few ladies in the windows who began tapping and trying to get our attention. I kept my eyes up and walked right past.
Then we went to Café Piazza. This is an Italian café with a rather extensive gluten-free menu. My friend had gluten-free pizza, and I had homemade pasta with shrimp and zucchini served in a tomato sauce. It was delicious, and I was starving, so it really hit the spot.
Our last excursion for the night was Damstraatjes Street, which has many weed shops, souvenir stores, cafés, and bakeries. It ended at the square with De Nieuwe Kerk. Here we found 100% Holland, a unique gift shop, and bought our souvenirs for the Netherlands. It was the most unique gift shop we found that day, with the exception of a few museum gift shops.
We then walked to a less busy area to get an Uber back to the hotel, showered, and had an unfortunate TV experience where it literally stopped playing, went black, and wouldn’t turn off. It was mounted on the wall, so it took forever to find the power plug and unplug it.
March 24: Windmills, War Strategy & a Spiral Staircase Near-Death Experience
We still had time on our city pass, so we decided to hit a few locations on the way out of Amsterdam.
We started at Zaanse Schans, where the windmills were once the beating heart of one of the world’s first industrial zones.
1600s–1700s: Hundreds of windmills powered industries like sawmills, oil production, paint, spices, and paper, turning the Zaan region into an early industrial powerhouse.
Innovation hub: The Dutch perfected wind-powered sawmills here, helping mass-produce ships for global trade during the Dutch Golden Age.
1800s decline: Steam engines replaced wind power, and most mills disappeared.
Preservation era: A handful were relocated and restored at Zaanse Schans to preserve this history.
Today, they’re less about grinding grain and more about telling the story of how wind helped launch a global trading empire, basically the Netherlands’ original “factory district,” powered by air.
They are located north of the city and share a parking lot with the Zaans Museum, more on that later. Parking was about €10. We were able to pre-acquire our admission to the museum before it opened from a really sweet woman working the front desk. The museum doesn’t open until 10 AM, and we arrived at 9 AM to hit up the windmills first.
We entered, and the area is laid out with souvenir stores and cafés throughout. They also have a cheese shop with a walk-through history and free tastings of all the cheeses. Note: we later found out the cheese here is more expensive than in local shops. The exact same cheese, even. We tried, we got suckered into buying it. It was good cheese, though, and will make some good gifts for coworkers and family.
The cheese shop onsite is called Catharina Hoeve, and it’s a traditional-style cheese farm at Zaanse Schans that brings Dutch cheesemaking to life. It is not an original centuries-old farm, but was built as part of the Zaanse Schans open-air museum to showcase traditional rural life.
The site also has a clog workshop, which again isn’t historic, but they do have a museum showing the many styles of clogs, including rhinestone-embellished ones, carved wedding clogs, and others from throughout history. They have live demonstrations and, of course, clogs to purchase.
Onsite they also have windmills you can tour. The city pass got us into Paintmill De Kat (Verfmolen De Kat), a rare surviving paint mill where wind power is used to grind raw materials into pigments. Built in 1781, De Kat is the last working paint windmill in the world.
Industrial role: It once produced pigments for paints, dyes, and inks, supplying artists and industries during the Dutch Golden Age and beyond.
How it worked: Wind-powered stones crushed minerals, chalk, and other materials into fine colored powders.
Still operating: Today, it continues to produce pigments, keeping this nearly lost craft alive.
It was working when we visited, and we were able to go up to the roof. It was cool, loud, and windy as hell.
We then headed back to the Zaans Museum, a modern museum that tells the story of the Zaan region’s rise as one of the world’s first industrial areas, featuring exhibits on wind-powered industries, local crafts, and the famous Verkade food factories. It was informative, but since we were on a timetable, we sort of breezed through.
Inside is actually something pretty cool: a recreation of the historic Verkade biscuit and chocolate factory. Founded in 1886, Verkade became one of the Netherlands’ most beloved food brands.
Factory life: The exhibit shows original machinery and tells the story of the “Verkade girls,” the women who worked in the factory packing biscuits and chocolate.
Early industrial food production: It highlights how mass-produced sweets became part of everyday Dutch life.
Immersive setup: It is designed to feel like stepping into an early 1900s production line.
It’s basically a time capsule of sugar, cocoa, and industry, where the smell of history is almost sweet enough to taste. Everything was running, and it was cool to see these historic machines. At the end, a man offered us a biscuit to try and it was pretty tasty. The museum gives both an aerial view of the factory and an up-close, personal look.
We headed out from that region and went to Muiderslot Castle. We were able to find parking right near it, and it was €2 for one hour.
Muiderslot has a well-preserved medieval castle dating back to the 13th century, complete with towers, a moat, and furnished rooms that bring knightly life and Dutch history vividly to life. It was almost in ruins in the 1800s but was fully restored in the 1900s and turned into a museum.
It was cool to see a medieval castle, and it even had murder holes. It’s also pretty open to explore, including the towers and dungeon. It had an audio guide in multiple languages. The signage is what we mostly followed, and it was worth the stop, plus it was included on our city pass.
Our final city pass stop was Vesting Naarden, a perfectly preserved star-shaped fortress town from the 16th and 17th centuries.
Built for defense: Designed during the Eighty Years’ War to protect the Dutch Republic.
Star fort design: Its geometric layout with bastions and moats allowed defenders to see and fire in all directions, with no blind spots.
Part of a larger system: It later became part of the Dutch Water Line, which used controlled flooding to keep enemies out.
Still intact: It is one of the best-preserved fortified towns in Europe, with walls, gates, and canals largely unchanged.
It’s basically a giant medieval geometry lesson turned into a fortress, where every angle was designed to outsmart invaders.
This place had a few parking spots outside that we were lucky to find at no cost. They had goats waiting to greet us when we entered the property as well. Entry included an audio guide, a museum with the history of the area, and access to the grounds, including dark tunnels to nowhere. There was a lot of artillery on display and goat houses too. It was interesting to see. Inside, it has a tiny store and café, but the best part? The bathrooms play a salute when you walk in…
We were hungry and decided to drive to the city center to eat at SEAson Arsenaal. We got lucky and found free parking behind the building. The inside is nice, maybe too nice for how we were dressed, but at that point we were committed. I got the chef’s three-course meal, which included Bloody Mary shrimp cocktail, sea bass, and apple crumble. It was all pretty delicious. The only complaint I really had was that it took forrrrrever. Literally 90 to 120 minutes. It was insane, and not because we ate slowly. It was also pricey, our first meal over €100. My friend ordered the lobster bisque and scallops, and I’d steer away from the bisque. It had a bitter taste. It was really the only letdown food-wise in this country.
We hightailed it to Veluwe for the Sand Sculpture Festival, an annual outdoor festival in Garderen featuring massive, intricately carved sand sculptures that depict historical themes, stories, and cultural scenes, blending art, storytelling, and impressive craftsmanship. We were lucky enough to catch it, and it was Roman-themed. It was impressive, with dozens, if not close to 100, sculptures made of wood, sand, and bronze. Some of these were lifelike, and the faces were able to emote. This is my second one, and I’m still in awe. The entry area also has carved sculptures with a high skill level, and even the parking lot was decorated. They even had a man making one onsite.
We then went into Apeldoorn, where they have a shop with gluten- and dairy-free products. My friend is gluten-free, so this was quite a find. She was impressed with the selection there. It’s called Free From Shop. She loaded up a basket, and then we found out they only took local debit cards or cash… so off we went to find an ATM. After that side detour, we made it back to the store to complete the purchase.
The town also had a Decathlon, so €230 later, I left with some of my favorite travel clothing.
Then came dinner. We first attempted Eetcafé “bij Cas” in Beekbergen, but parking was street parking and the only spot we found was far from the restaurant, which made me nervous at night with all our stuff in the car. We decided to try Grand Café @The Park, but this place was inside a campsite park with no public parking, so we headed back to Eetcafé “bij Cas.”
They had one high-top table left and a busy atmosphere. I had the pumpkin soup and beef tartare. Everything was delicious. It was well worth the price and stop. We even closed the place down, being the second-to-last people to leave.
This rounded us out to Fletcher Hotel-Restaurant Victoria-Hoenderloo. It was smooth sailing until the road leading to it turned out to be closed, so we had to reroute and then finally found it. Check-in was easy, but then we had to find our building in the dark. Luckily it wasn’t too difficult, and we entered the building to find our room on the second floor with a spiral staircase. Holy crap, a tiny spiral staircase too. We lugged our stuff up, and this was easily the first time I almost fell down the stairs in a foreign country. When presented with tiny spiral stairs, do not, I repeat, do not try to take everything you own in one trip.
The room itself was huge by European standards, honestly even by U.S. standards. We had twin beds next to each other that we could easily move. The bathroom was giant as well. This wasn’t the nicest room by any means, but the beds were comfy and it was quiet. They had made some upgrades too, so it really was a good value for the price. They had a pool as well, but we were only staying for a few hours before getting back on the road. We showered, reorganized our bags, meaning we had shopped excessively, and then booked tickets for tomorrow’s early adventure.
March 25: Tulips, Cheese & Windmills (with a Side of Chaos)
We set out just before 7:30 and, of course, it started raining as we loaded our bags… there goes my curls 😑. We drove just under two hours to Keukenhof to see the tulips. It’s a bit early in the season, but it’s open!
Keukenhof is one of the world’s largest flower gardens, open each spring and showcasing millions of blooming tulips, daffodils, and other flowers in beautifully designed landscapes—often called the “Garden of Europe.” Tickets were €21 per person, and the website mentioned €9 for parking, which we somehow didn’t end up needing… so donation to them, I guess.
We arrived just before our 9:30 time slot and headed in. A lot of flowers were already blooming, but it wasn’t at peak yet. The grounds are intricately landscaped with tons of walking paths, gift shops, food options, a windmill, and even whisper boats. I grabbed Dutch mini pancakes with caramel for €11, which honestly left a lot to be desired since the middle was a bit raw. Definitely my least favorite thing I ate in the Netherlands.
They also had an indoor garden with bold, vibrant tulips in full bloom, and that was the money shot. It was busy, but not nearly as bad as I expected. I just wish we had come about three weeks later because this place would be fire. We spent about an hour walking around in the cold, wind, and drizzle before heading out.
Next stop was Gouda.
Gouda cheese has medieval roots dating back to at least the 12th century, when farmers in the region made cheese to preserve excess milk. Interestingly, it’s named after the city where it was traded and sold—not necessarily where it was produced. Farmers would bring large wheels of cheese into town to be weighed, taxed, and sold in public markets, and some of those traditions, like handclapping negotiations, are still reenacted today. By the Dutch Golden Age, Gouda had become one of the most traded cheeses in Europe thanks to its durability and long shelf life. Aging plays a big role too—young Gouda is mild and creamy, while aged versions are darker, firmer, and develop almost caramel-like flavors. So Gouda isn’t just cheese… it’s basically a medieval trade success story that aged into global fame.
We found parking at Q-Park New Market and hopped out. It was super windy and still cold, so we hustled over to Saint John Church, the longest church in the Netherlands, known for its breathtaking 16th-century stained glass windows, called the “Gouda Glass,” which depict biblical and historical scenes in vivid color. It was €11 to enter, so we passed and just admired it from the outside, but the nice man at the counter gave me a biscuit… so still a win.
We then headed toward the center where Stadhuis van Gouda sits—a stunning 15th-century Gothic city hall right in the middle of the main square, known for its ornate details, red shutters, and role as the historic center of civic life in Gouda.
With the landmarks done, that left cheese. We stopped at VVV Gouda, the official tourist information center, where they have a replica of the traditional cheese weighing scale used during Gouda’s historic markets. Farmers would bring large wheels of cheese to be officially weighed before sale, which determined pricing, taxes, and ensured fair trade. Giant balance scales with counterweights were used, typically inside a weighing house called a waag. Today, the replica gives you a look at how the system worked without needing to catch a live market.
We were also able to do a full cheese tasting inside… and of course I bought more. Why wouldn’t I want nine wedges of different cheeses to take home?
Fun fact about Gouda: it’s not just known for cheese, but also as the birthplace of the stroopwafel. So naturally, we stopped at Kamphuisen Siroopwafelfabriek, a historic bakery and museum dedicated to the original Gouda-style stroopwafel. These are thinner, crispier, and more delicately spiced than the typical versions. The recipe dates back to 1810, making it one of the oldest in the Netherlands. You can watch them being made fresh and taste them right there. It’s basically where caramel, waffles, and centuries of tradition decided to team up.
We hustled back to the car—hello wind—and drove to Interparking Markthal in Rotterdam. This was probably the most convenient stop of the trip. One elevator ride up and we were inside the Markthal, a massive horseshoe-shaped food hall and apartment complex known for its colorful ceiling artwork called the “Horn of Plenty,” along with tons of food stalls, restaurants, and shops.
We wandered and landed on LALA Latin Soul Food for lunch, where I had shrimp with fries and salad for €25. It was delicious… honestly, everything here has been.
We headed out the back and immediately saw the Cube Houses (Kunstkubus), a cluster of tilted cube-shaped homes designed by architect Piet Blom in the 1980s to resemble a forest of abstract trees, where each cube sits on a hexagonal “trunk.” They’re located right in Binnenrotte square. There were also a few other really cool buildings nearby, including a great view of the Markthal and an interesting bike parking structure.
From there, we drove to UNESCO World Heritage Kinderdijk, a site featuring 19 historic windmills built in the 18th century to manage water levels and prevent flooding—an iconic example of Dutch water engineering and life below sea level.
We were so close… and then chaos. About 40 kids on bikes pulled out of a rental place, and the stragglers couldn’t ride, so we were stuck following them the entire way to the site.
Parking was €9.95, but it’s free to walk around. We started down a path, passed a construction site, and went through multiple open gates… until we hit one that was very much closed. A guy came over and asked if we saw the “private property” sign. We didn’t. I’m guessing the gate was open because of construction, and the people we passed didn’t say anything.
He was actually amused and told us, “we forgive you,” then opened the gate… which, of course, led directly into the paid windmill attraction. So we just walked straight through to the exit and carried on like nothing happened.
We stopped at the restroom/shop and then hit the road to our hotel in The Hague, Best Western.
This place barely looked like a hotel because it was actually two old mansions converted into one. It had private parking for €18 per night. The room was a decent size, but the “twin” beds were pushed together and couldn’t really be separated due to built-in frames. The bathroom had an open shower concept, so the floor was basically soaked afterward. That said, the beds were comfortable, and the room had a bougie feel without the bougie price. It’s located in the Embassy area, and I would absolutely recommend it.
We decided to grab dinner at Bregje The Hague a few blocks away. We didn’t have a reservation which was kind of a problem but they gave us a table stating we had to be gone within 2 hours. Deal. I ordered a 3 course meal. The appetizer was shrimp with bread, then a burger with corn ribs and a chocolate brownie/chocolate mousse combo with vanilla ice cream. The burger was mostly meh but the rest was excellent. The brownie and mousse in particular were very good. We walked the cold 8 minute walk back to the hotel and showered and went to bed. This hotel was also following trend and was very quiet and the bed was comfy. I now travel with my own pillow (history of neck problems) but I highly recommend this method of travel because historically the pillows are the absolute worst in hotels. Anyway, I didn’t attempt the ones here but I slept like a royal baby.
March 26: Hailstorms, History & Antwerp Glow-Ups
We woke up around 7:30 AM to be on the road by 8. After checking the weather and seeing a 60% chance of rain, possible snow, and cold temperatures, we pivoted our plans and decided to buy the Antwerp City Pass and head straight to Antwerp, our next city.
We aimed for a parking lot near two museums we wanted to visit, but that quickly turned into a full-blown parking struggle. The first lot was full, the second was closed for a private company, the third wasn’t public, and after about 40 minutes of trying, we finally found a spot at Q-Park Godefriduskaai. It ended up being perfect.
We entered the garage while it was sunny, found a spot, and by the time we walked outside it had turned gray, windy, and started hailing. It was wild. Luckily, one of the museums was right there, so we ducked inside.
We wandered through the MAS - Museum aan de Stroom, located in Antwerp’s old port district, which tells the story of the city’s connection to the world. Each floor explores themes like trade, migration, culture, and global exchange through artifacts, art, and interactive exhibits. The building itself is part of the experience, with a spiral walkway leading up to a panoramic rooftop offering one of the best views over Antwerp and its harbor. The building was really cool with huge glass windows and a 10th floor viewing deck. The content inside was hit or miss and nothing that was super interesting, but the views were great.
By the time we finished, the sun had started to come back out, so we headed to the Red Star Line Museum. The Red Star Line Museum tells the story of millions of European emigrants who left Antwerp for America between 1873 and 1934 aboard Red Star Line ships. Instead of just facts, it focuses on real personal journeys—what people packed, what they went through before boarding, and what it felt like to leave everything behind. The exhibits are immersive and emotional, walking you through the entire migration experience from departure to arrival. It was smaller but very focused, and they give you a booklet that covers all the displays in English. They also had a very small café and gift shop.
We headed back to the car and moved into the city center, parking at Parking Indigo Groenplaats. We were originally in pursuit of an Italian gluten-free restaurant, but along the way we passed MoMu - Fashion Museum Antwerp. MoMu is a cutting-edge fashion museum showcasing bold, artistic exhibitions centered around Belgian designers and global fashion culture. Rather than traditional displays, each exhibit is curated like an immersive experience, blending fashion, art, and storytelling. We don’t really get fashion at all, so this wasn’t really for us. It’s also pretty small with just two exhibits. One of them focused on Palestinian weaving, which was actually really interesting and had a lot of information about clothing in that region historically, outside influences, and techniques.
Detour complete, we made it to Le Delizie senza glutine. The owner is celiac, lactose intolerant, and from Italy, so she created a completely gluten-free restaurant. I had a pizza and my friend had homemade pasta. It was good and €39 total, which felt like a great deal. The owner was very nice, and it worked out to be a quick stop. It also rained again while we were inside, so we stayed dry.
Around the corner was St. Andrew’s Church (Sint-Andrieskerk), which dates back to the early 16th century and was originally built for an Augustinian monastery. Not long after its construction, it became associated with early followers of Martin Luther, which led to periods of religious tension during the Reformation. Over time, the church returned to Catholic use and was richly decorated in Baroque style, creating a striking contrast between its Gothic structure and ornate interior. It’s often called the “parish of the poor” because it historically served Antwerp’s working-class neighborhood. One of its most unique traditions today is the statue of the Virgin Mary, which is dressed in modern outfits. Unfortunately, it wasn’t open inside, but it was still impressive from the outside, and honestly everything in Antwerp is beautiful.
We continued on to the Plantin-Moretus Museum, a UNESCO World Heritage site housed in the former home and printing workshop of Christophe Plantin and his son-in-law Jan Moretus. Founded in the 16th century, it became one of the most important printing houses in Europe, producing books, maps, and scientific works distributed worldwide. Today, the museum preserves the original residence and workshop, including some of the oldest surviving printing presses in the world, along with an impressive historic library. This was the true surprise of the day. I expected to just see a press, but the décor, the books, learning about preservation methods, and the evolution of communication made it incredible. They even had two gentlemen demonstrating the presses in action. It had a dark, gothic, almost mysterious feel and was easily a MUST SEE.
Next, we went to the DIVA Museum, Antwerp’s museum of diamonds, jewelry, and silversmithing, highlighting the city’s role as a global diamond hub. The museum is set up like a journey through different rooms, exploring craftsmanship, trade, and the stories behind luxury objects. It had some really impressive pieces on display, including diamonds, gold, silverware, and serving sets. I’m not someone who prioritizes diamonds since I spend my money on travel, but I still appreciated everything on display. It was also interactive and well done. And once again, it rained while we were inside, so we dodged that too.
We made our way through Grote Markt, Antwerp’s historic main square dating back to the 16th century, surrounded by ornate guild houses and Renaissance-style City Hall. At the center stands the Brabo Fountain, symbolizing the city’s legendary origins. From there, we wandered through Vlaaikensgang, a hidden medieval alley dating back to the 16th century that once housed shoemakers and some of Antwerp’s poorest residents. It’s tucked between busy streets and feels like stepping into a completely different time.
We continued on to Sint-Carolus Borromeuskerk, a stunning 17th-century Baroque church originally built by the Jesuits as a showcase of their influence and artistry. It was closely connected to Peter Paul Rubens, who helped design elements of the interior and created ceiling paintings, many of which were later lost in a fire. Despite that loss, the church remains incredibly impressive with dramatic altars, intricate details, and a bold black and gold interior. You can also climb up to a balcony overlooking the altar. The staff were very friendly and even gave us suggestions for other churches to visit later in our trip. I’d strongly recommend this stop.
We attempted to visit the Heritage Library Hendrik Conscience, but it’s closed until April, which was a bit of a bummer.
From there, we headed to the Cathedral of Our Lady (Onze-Lieve-Vrouwekathedraal), Belgium’s largest Gothic church, with construction beginning in 1352 and continuing for nearly two centuries. Its towering spire dominates Antwerp’s skyline and reflects the city’s wealth during its Golden Age. Inside, the cathedral houses several masterpieces by Peter Paul Rubens, making it both a religious landmark and an important art destination. This place is massive and can be seen from all over the city, which made it easy to navigate back to our car. Inside there were multiple altars, access to lower structural areas, extensive stained glass, and floors made of crypts. You could spend hours here and still find new things to see. Another MUST SEE.
We headed back to the car and started the drive to our hotel, A-STAY Antwerp. The GPS kept trying to route us down closed streets, so we had to improvise and switch to Waze before finally making it. Parking was easy with an underground garage that connects directly to the lobby. Check-in was quick, but when we got to the room the key didn’t work, so back down I went. Also worth noting, the elevators here are very slow.
The room itself is semi high-tech with adjustable lighting in different colors like pink, red, and purple, along with sleep and day modes. The shower and toilet have glass enclosures, which is not a trend I love, but this was the first shower in Europe that didn’t leak, so I’ll take it. The beds are twins but can easily be separated.
We didn’t have much time, so we dropped our bags and headed back out, walking through the Diamond District where it’s just shop after shop of diamonds. Most places were closing, so we mostly window shopped.
We then crossed over to Antwerp Central Station, which opened in 1905 and is often called the “Railway Cathedral” for its grand dome and ornate design. Beautiful doesn’t even begin to describe it.
Next was Chocolate Nation, the world’s largest Belgian chocolate museum located next to the station. It’s an immersive experience where you move through rooms on a timed system, learning about chocolate from bean to finished product. It’s very structured and educational, but it ends with multiple tastings, so in the end I was happy. I also picked up some “gold” chocolate, chocolate tea, and a few gifts.
We then went to Stadsfeestzaal, originally built in 1908 as an exhibition hall and later restored after a fire in 2000. It now functions as a shopping gallery while preserving its ornate interior with gold ceilings, chandeliers, and decorative details. It’s small but really beautiful.
For dinner, we stopped at Hulstkamp, which is advertised as a Belgian restaurant and recommended mussels. That was all I needed to hear. We had mussels with fries and sauce, followed by a brownie cake for dessert. Another fantastic meal.
We made the cold walk back to the hotel, passing Antwerp Central Station all lit up at night, which somehow looked even better. Then we went to bed.